code 20????
06-21-2002, 04:20 AM
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code 20????
i keep getting a code 20 every once in a while and i dont know why. it just barely started happening recently. i got a dx to si wiring and a 89 integ ecu if any of that matters. thanks in advance.
06-29-2002, 12:33 AM
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Re: code 20???? (Hcivic88)
I'm getting the same thing, starting last night when I traded the LS ecu for a Si ecu. Can anyone please help...I can't find any info on electric load in any of my manuals.
06-29-2002, 12:38 AM
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Re: code 20???? (NOCARLOSER)
Wait, I just found this on resource.crx.org!
Here it is:
Code 20 Information
From Chris Stoddard:
This indicates a fault in the Electric Load Detector. As far as I can tell, this device is used by the ECU to decide when the alternator should be charging at elevated voltage (14.5 V) or just plain maintenance voltage (12.5 V). The ECU considers several other factors as well, including temperature, engine speed, etc.
The Helm manual has a three page flow chart for trouble shooting the arrangement. (Hint: get the Helm manual!)
A good first step would be to "exercise" the connector to the ELD to overcome any corrosion problems then reset the ECU by removing the Hazard fuse in the under-hood fuse box for 10 seconds. The ELD connector lies inside the electrical box that straddles the shock mount behind the airbox. It's apparently a three pin connector with black, black/yellow and green/red wires going to it.
To cut to the chase, the actions that would result from various failure modes would be to:
repair an open in one of the wires between ECU and ELD
repair a short in one of the wires
replace the ELD (requires replacing the entire fuse box)
replace the ECU (!!)
I'm confident that if the ELD turned out to be faulty, one could rig the system to always be at 14.5V charging voltage (like every other car on the road) and the worst that would happen is you'd lose that last elusive mile per gallon.
From Chris Stoddard:
I have an Error code 20 (electric load error) and assume that the detector may be bad. My car, once warmed up, idles around 500-200 rpm, or just plain stalls. It often fluctuates between 200 and about 700 rpm when it's really trying to stall.
O.K., first, your easiest, cheapest course of action is to (with the ignition off) pull out the HAZARD fuse from the underhood fuse box for 10 seconds to reset the ECU. In some cases, this "reboot" of the ECU allows it to relearn its idle and get along better than before.
If this doesn't help, try a session of connector exercises (once again, with the engine off). By this I mean unplug and reconnect various plugs on sensors (including the ELD) to rub off any corrosion that may be there. Don't force anything, and remember to unlatch the latching connectors as you try to pull them off. After all this, do the HAZARD fuse thing again, and try the engine again.
I'll try this in a bit and see what happens...I already tried just resetting the ecu but maybe it's time for a sensor "workout"
[Modified by NOCARLOSER, 4:44 AM 6/29/2002]
Here it is:
Code 20 Information
From Chris Stoddard:
This indicates a fault in the Electric Load Detector. As far as I can tell, this device is used by the ECU to decide when the alternator should be charging at elevated voltage (14.5 V) or just plain maintenance voltage (12.5 V). The ECU considers several other factors as well, including temperature, engine speed, etc.
The Helm manual has a three page flow chart for trouble shooting the arrangement. (Hint: get the Helm manual!)
A good first step would be to "exercise" the connector to the ELD to overcome any corrosion problems then reset the ECU by removing the Hazard fuse in the under-hood fuse box for 10 seconds. The ELD connector lies inside the electrical box that straddles the shock mount behind the airbox. It's apparently a three pin connector with black, black/yellow and green/red wires going to it.
To cut to the chase, the actions that would result from various failure modes would be to:
repair an open in one of the wires between ECU and ELD
repair a short in one of the wires
replace the ELD (requires replacing the entire fuse box)
replace the ECU (!!)
I'm confident that if the ELD turned out to be faulty, one could rig the system to always be at 14.5V charging voltage (like every other car on the road) and the worst that would happen is you'd lose that last elusive mile per gallon.
From Chris Stoddard:
I have an Error code 20 (electric load error) and assume that the detector may be bad. My car, once warmed up, idles around 500-200 rpm, or just plain stalls. It often fluctuates between 200 and about 700 rpm when it's really trying to stall.
O.K., first, your easiest, cheapest course of action is to (with the ignition off) pull out the HAZARD fuse from the underhood fuse box for 10 seconds to reset the ECU. In some cases, this "reboot" of the ECU allows it to relearn its idle and get along better than before.
If this doesn't help, try a session of connector exercises (once again, with the engine off). By this I mean unplug and reconnect various plugs on sensors (including the ELD) to rub off any corrosion that may be there. Don't force anything, and remember to unlatch the latching connectors as you try to pull them off. After all this, do the HAZARD fuse thing again, and try the engine again.
I'll try this in a bit and see what happens...I already tried just resetting the ecu but maybe it's time for a sensor "workout"
[Modified by NOCARLOSER, 4:44 AM 6/29/2002]
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