larzcivicef

hey guys, im new here, i changed my headgasket on my ef civic, d15b2, when i started it up, it idles high now, around 1800-2000k, i slipped the timing belt on and i think its one or two degrees off, can any of you guys help? ill add a video of the start up

larzcivicef

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WbtHauQgzFU
thats the link to the video on youtube
thanks

fin781

did u remove the intake manifold ? if so pull it back off and make sure there was no gasket left. it sounds like a vacuum leak. spray carb or brake cleaner around your engine, pay attention to the increase in idle.
if not then pull the belt back off, set your timing for the bock and head, and double check with a timing light

BiG ChOr!Zo

iTrader: (1)

adjust your throttle cable

larzcivicef

if i tucked my throttle cable behind my intake manitfold could that be pulling on it, causing the increased idle? cause i did that while i had the block off to try to clean up the engine a bit

TJChad

Throttle cable adjustment, look at your actual throttle on the side of your carb, the large "nut" goes underneath the bracket and your jamnut goes on the outside. Aside from that look at the throttle plate control and make sure without your foot on the gas pedal that it's resting against the stop. Also, put the cable back where it was, you'll just cause extra stress/ wear on it.

Laserjock

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-crx-ef-civic-1988-1991-3/sluggish-acceleration-bad-mpg-2753606/

Check page2 on this thread about mechanical timing.

I hope you haven't futzd with the other stuff posted above

larzcivicef

how do i get the cover off the lower part of my engine? the little plastic cover that covers up the tensioner and all that good stuff?

fin781

pull the crank pulley, 17mm i think. dont loose the woodruff key

hatchet_honda

17mm impact socket and big *** impact gun. lots of psi. orrr a big *** breaker bar and a big *** friiend to get it off for you ..

larzcivicef

alright haha ill do that after school i guess

Laserjock

quoted for WTF???

why, do you 2 unbolt your hood to check the oil level?

or remove the lugnuts to check air pressure?

or drop the gas tank to fill up gas?




There is a access hole right above the crank pulley (between the 2 headed arrow) to loosen and tighten the tensioner.

Step 1

Rotate crank pulley to TDC



Step 2

Loosen tensioner. The timing belt will get loose. Slip it off the camshaft sprocket.
Rotate sprocket so that the 2 marks are aligned with the flat part of the mating surfaces (headgasket) of the head and block.
Slip the timing belt back on
Tighten the tensioner.

Optional: smak thezes too f0ols if you meet them in person



]

hatchet_honda

wasnt aware he was wanting to adjust the belt tensioner, thought he was just asking how the belt cover came off.

larzcivicef

sorry for the confusion guys, i thought i had to take the cover off to loosen the tensioner. im gonna go fix it now, thanks for all the help!

larzcivicef

alright guys timing is all good, now i think it has a vacuum leak but im going to autozone to get it diagnosed

TJChad

have you checked your throttle cable yet?

TJChad

The only vaccum lines that you should have unplugged is the Fuel Pressure Reg, IACV, and the choke

larzcivicef

when i bought it it didnt hace the hoze from the intake to the head. i didnt get it yet cuz apparently autozone ran out of hose in that size...
also i started it, and two things occurred. first, the hose that goes from the radiator to the head, blew off of the head. hoze clamp wasnt real tight though. it seemed to be running real hot though, even though the temp gauge didnt move. second, the sub is like "pulsing" im running a single ten with a max of 450 watts rating, with a 350 watt kenwood amp. just bought all this. im powering the amp from an accessory fuse. what would cause it to pulse like that? it comes on then goes off then comes on again like it isnt getting enough power. thats the same fuse im running my tach from, and it works just fine. i dont want to run it straight from my battery cuz i dont want to drain the battery or haave to worry about turning it off every time i get out if it was on a toggle switch
oh, and also, how long should it take for all the **** that was in my engine to burn off? it had a blown head gasket, but the new one seems to be holding up well since im not loosing coolant and it isnt over heating, but it still smokes alot when i rev it
any help?
thanks!

hatchet_honda

uhh your seriously running power to your amp from an accessory wire?? yeah thats no bueno..run an AMP POWER WIRE to your battery. with an inline fuse. and you dont need a toggle switch, you need a remote wire. this wires to your radio harness(blue wire usually) and connects to the amp, thus turning it off and on with the ignition power. juss curious where did you run the amp ground wire to? lol

larzcivicef

i ran the ground to a bolt where my back seat was

mattliston

you tard, that accessory spot doesnt support more then maybe 15-30 amps at best

Having the throttle cable tucked WILL have it put stress/friction on the cable and prevent it from going fully down

have it normal. loop it over the timing mount and go from teh front to the center again.

If you changed stuff and it changed how teh car ran RETURN IT TO STOCK

dont you sit and say hey, I changed ****, and now it runs different. Hmmm. ask a bunch of questions, or return it to stock where it was running fine?>??????

larzcivicef

woah, man, i returned my throttle cable to where it was and its still being weird, the things ive changed are i slipped the timing belt off and changed the headgasket, because it wasnt running right, i have left everthing as it should be or returned it to as it should be, dont start any fights here.

fin781

if you clearly read his question, it wasnt to adjust or loosen the tensioner, it was to remove the timing cover.
im pretty sure you werent the only one who knew about the hole for the tensioner, jus sayin.

Laserjock

And if you clearly read the topic title, it is timing and timing belt related. not removing the timing belt cover. even your 1st post in the thread states to adjust the head and block timing. Do YOU remove crank pulley and the timing belt cover to adjust the timing?

rolleyes

original poster, get rid of the amp and sub garbage before continuing the diagnosis to eliminate variables.

get a vacuum diagram and route all your hoses correctly.

recheck the mating surfaces of the intake manifold and throttle body to make sure there are no gaps. spray carb cleaner around suspected areas. if the idle lowers momentarily, look for leaks there.

did you change the oil and coolant after the HG replacement? might have left a lot of garbage in the systems.

larzcivicef

alright im gonna check all seals and vacuums tomorrow, all new hose clamps and everything. my temp gauge doesnt seem to be working anymore since it doesnt move at all, any help?