sleepin91teg

Ok, this is probly gonna be long, but i need help ASAP because the car needs to be driven wednesday...

Anyways i had a bad master cylinder, so i replaced that and the booster also...after that, the lines were bled very well...

Drove fine around town (10-15 minutes of driving tops) but now this morning i tried to go to work (never made it) and about 15 minutes after going, i get on the freeway, and the brakes damn near locked up (dragged extremely HARD). Pulled over, and disconnected vacuum line to booster, and the brakes "reset" and were fine, so we kept driving, but about 15 minutes later, started to experience the problem again...

Also as the time/distance of driving increases, the pedal free play minimizes, gets to the point where u can breath on the pedal and it slams on the brakes...

HELP please...im on AIM, sleepin91teg, and my email is monkey86@aol.com ill check everything as much as possible today, thanx guys

RCautoworks

First thing that comes to my mind is the brake booster pin ( the one that connects to the brake pedal ) . Are you sure you set this right ? I don't think that's it, because you drove around for 15 mins and it was fine. Did you bench bleed the master cylinder ?

And what do you mean the brakes reset when you disconnected the brake booster ? Were they fine after that ?

mr. carpenter

did you prime the mc before you installed it?

sleepin91teg

The pin is fine to the pedal...the mc was bench bled also...and by saying "reset" i mean after we re-connected the vacuum line it was fine (not perfect, but driveable)

and again, yes the mc was primed/bench bled

RCautoworks

Sounds like something is up with your brake booster then. Seems like its applying to much vacuum.

jc836

Did you replace the vacuum line check valve. For that matter is it installed in the right direction-just a thought. Could also be a bad booster/MC. It does happen.

sleepin91teg

vacuum lines were tested and have no cracks, and the check valve is in the right direction and also just tested fine....keep the ideas coming...this sux

kurinto

I had the exact same problem. I replaced the master cylinder and it was fine.

sleepin91teg

Hmm still wondering

RCautoworks

Are you postive the brack clevis pin is not adjusted to low ?

sleepin91teg

Whats the clevis pin, and how is it adjusted?

RCautoworks

Its the long rod that stick out of the brake booster, it spins basically. I have seen a lot of people tighten the rod ( shorten it ) and forget to re-lengthen it after its installed. Resulting in the brakes to always be applied or applying.

kurinto

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sleepin91teg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hmm still wondering</TD></TR></TABLE>

Did you try another master cylinder?

When I had my problem I adjusted the pushrod on the brake booster also and it didn't matter at all. I'm telling you, I had the same problem as you practically word for word and I had to replace the mc. Autozone is usually pretty good about taking parts back if thats not the problem, so I would give it a shot.

sleepin91teg

Would this problem be directly related to a weird idle, and idle problems...

RCautoworks

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sleepin91teg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Would this problem be directly related to a weird idle, and idle problems...
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Are you talking about what I suggested ? If the brakes are always being applied then I suppose the idle could be a little weird. I mean your idle does dip when you hit the brakes so it could be/

sleepin91teg

I just adjusted the brake light switch, and nothng came of it...any other ideas, right around 10-15 minutes the brake pedal gets really hard and i can barely let out of the clutch and rev it fast enough to move, with out stalling

RCautoworks

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sleepin91teg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just adjusted the brake light switch, and nothng came of it...any other ideas, right around 10-15 minutes the brake pedal gets really hard and i can barely let out of the clutch and rev it fast enough to move, with out stalling</TD></TR></TABLE>

The brake light switch or the clevis pin ?

sleepin91teg

Im going to take the mc off and exchange it back at autozone, all in favor gimme a thump up

PS, by exchange i mean, launch this reman P.O.S. through their glass windows!

Ch3mik

i had this exact issue as well. I thought it was a siezed caliper but thought it off that when i hit the brakes it didnt pull one way. I just took the reman MC out and went and got another one at Oreilys. I took it for a spin on the hwy a bit ago. had no issues. the brake pedal has a bit more play than id like it to have but at least the brakes arent clamped on the rotors i was SO pissed off earlier cuz i had to redo the entire damn thing all over again. o well. damn cars. its a love/hate deal. :/