This happens occasionally. and only after decel
when coasting down a mountain(in 5th gear so I dont ride the breaks), or approaching a stop... the engine will lose power when I give it gas. If I release the pedal the engine will idle with the clutch in, but will almost die if I give it any pedal.

....and/or it will also....

when I take my foot off the gas at a stop the rpms dive below 500 and sometimes dies

I have got it to revive by keeping it in gear to keep it turning over and working the gas slowly till the engine revs up again.
Also it has started again after being off for 10-30 sec.

The last time this happened, I was on a hwy ramp and as I entered the hwy and shifted to 5th the engine started acting up and if I took my foot off the gas but did not shift to neutral, the car coasted easier than it would with a dead engine. If I press the gas the car acts as if I had just released the clutch pedal. I costed to the shoulder like this and while stopped I noticed the engine idled fine but when I press the pedal it wants to die.
This time it had a CEL and the codes 1, 7, and 16.
I know what these codes mean but what should I be checking?
the O2 code is from the stalling and is a side effect, not part of it , right?
but
the other 2 are I guess

I think that gives a fair amount of info.

so I have this question could a faulty TPS do this?
I have never had this issue in any situation other than directly following a bit of decel.

any other areas to check?

 

fuel filter?
vaccum lines?
vss?
my mom had a similar problem with her dodge and it turned out to be the vss.
code 16 is injectors correct?
is your car dpfi or mpfi?

 

dpfi
(the one in my sig)
and 16 is unidentified fuel sys problem(usually interpreted as injector)

filter is new(and why would this only affect during decel?)

I will check your suggestions, thanks

all others are welcome


Modified by HondaHeddie at 10:34 PM 3/17/2007


Modified by HondaHeddie at 10:35 PM 3/17/2007

 

a question about this...

why would pressing the gas cause a car to slow down faster than not pressing it?

 

sound like the ignitor starting to go bad I had the same symptoms, I would press the gas and was almost like a rev limiter, and sometimes it would be fine after swapping out a bunch of stuff I tried an ignitor from a spare dizzy and no problems

 

CEL 7 is TPS, check votage of the outer wires .5v when cclosed 4.5 open throttle. if its out of range adjust it.


for the fuel system CEL check in order Injectors, Pump, Filter, Pressure reg.

listen for injector clicking at idle

Idle fuel pressure should be 35-41psi (uusally closer to 41)

check pump w/ Key on ignition off to listen for pump priming or jumping the connector for the main relay blk/yel and yel/blk wires

i'd replace the filter just for good measure, they are cheap.

 

I forgot to include a possibly related symptom:
When I stop at a light the idle as I said will fall and stutter.
But the idle has also risen 300rpm or so at times also.
at others it sits at roughly 850-900rpm which is where I set it.
so I hope this additional symptom doesnt mean the suggestions so far are wasted.
Sorry if that is so, I will take my medicine for posting incompletly.

I am still wanting to know what would make the car slow down when the gas pedal is pressed.

Any guesses?


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by garageEF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">fuel filter?
vaccum lines?
vss?
my mom had a similar problem with her dodge and it turned out to be the vss.
code 16 is injectors correct?
is your car dpfi or mpfi?</TD></TR></TABLE>

how would the spedo cable cause the engine to die?
The vss is in the cluster on my rex


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crx Jimmy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sound like the ignitor starting to go bad I had the same symptoms, I would press the gas and was almost like a rev limiter, and sometimes it would be fine after swapping out a bunch of stuff I tried an ignitor from a spare dizzy and no problems</TD></TR></TABLE>

This sounds promising, I have no reason to have confidence in my dizzy it comes from questionable sources. The rotor is frozen on the shaft and the screw hole is stripped, so I have been planning on replacing it.

Could the dizzy cause all of this?

I just looked in the local yard and no luck, all the crx's and civics had no dizzy.
I gotta start checking daily, there are aliens there that seem to sit waiting for the cars to arrive. I have yet to not see a Honda that hasnt been swarmed.




<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RACINTWEEK &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">CEL 7 is TPS, check votage of the outer wires .5v when cclosed 4.5 open throttle. if its out of range adjust it.


for the fuel system CEL check in order Injectors, Pump, Filter, Pressure reg.

listen for injector clicking at idle

Idle fuel pressure should be 35-41psi (uusally closer to 41)

check pump w/ Key on ignition off to listen for pump priming or jumping the connector for the main relay blk/yel and yel/blk wires

i'd replace the filter just for good measure, they are cheap.


</TD></TR></TABLE>

as I stated in the opening post, I know the codes. I have the Helms in print and PDF, and I read the FAQ alot.
Thanks for being sure I knew though


How do I check the V on the wires?
You did mean for me to check the V while it is connected right to the TPS, right?

The TPS is the orig one(250k mi), do they slip? why would I need to adjust it?
I have searched the proccess, but before I move it I want to be sure I wont fix something that isnt broken.



The injectors are definitely clicking.
If I didnt know better I would think the was an exhaust leak on the intake side....hehe

Pump runs fine, it was replaced about 18mos ago.

I dont have the means to check fuel pressure, I cant buy a meter now, and cant find one to loan from a store.

I am replacing the filter today, it is not outside the realm of possibility that it is time to do so, but why would this only cause the engine to die after decel and at no other time.

 

BTW

if dirt or other failure in the TPS causes it to open instead of maintaining connection as the throttle moves, will that stop the engine?

or is full short the 0 throttle point?

 

if its not putting out the correct voltage (no matter what the cause) it wont send the correct amount of fuel.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RACINTWEEK &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if its not putting out the correct voltage (no matter what the cause) it wont send the correct amount of fuel.</TD></TR></TABLE>

true
if something is not correct it is wrong
I agree

ok
same question
does max resistance mean max throttle?
or if it was to open from dirt or wear would that tell the engine I took my foot off?


and still
what would cause my car to slow down when I press the gas while this issue happens?