1991 civic lx fuse 14
#1
1991 civic lx fuse 14
Just to start things off this is my first post and also my first EF. With that said...
I bought this car off of my buddy's friend and he told me the car would not start, it would keep blowing fuse 14 . He replaced spark plugs, distributor and timing belt. I did some reading on these forums and I decided to replace the main relay and put a new fuse in and the car started and ran for about 5-10 minutes and then cut out on me. I popped the hood and realized there were 2 grounds that weren't grounded at all, so I took care of that problem and put in a new fuse and it ran great for about a half an hour and then popped on me again . What could be the problem?! Why does it take so long for the fuse to pop?
I bought this car off of my buddy's friend and he told me the car would not start, it would keep blowing fuse 14 . He replaced spark plugs, distributor and timing belt. I did some reading on these forums and I decided to replace the main relay and put a new fuse in and the car started and ran for about 5-10 minutes and then cut out on me. I popped the hood and realized there were 2 grounds that weren't grounded at all, so I took care of that problem and put in a new fuse and it ran great for about a half an hour and then popped on me again . What could be the problem?! Why does it take so long for the fuse to pop?
#3
Honda-Tech Member
iTrader: (3)
Re: 1991 civic lx fuse 14
Definitely not a huge paragraph my man. And don't worry about it.
Definitely sounds like a grounding issue. You may need to check your three major grounds and see what's going on. The transmission ground, thermostat housing ground, and valve cover ground are all very important. If you are blowing fuses, there is probably an electrical issue with the device that fuse controls. If you just keep replacing the fuse, you may end up damaging the system sometime.
Check the wires to the alternator. Follow them through the harness. There may be a bad wire. Fuse 14 is the alternator. The alternator may be causing the fuse to blow because it's not functioning properly. If you have access to an alternator, try swapping them to see if it changes. If not, check the wires for sure.
I have also read that the fuel pump could cause this issue. Pinched wires, or exposed wires near the fuel pump. Check under your back seat for failed wires.
Quotes from Fabrik8 via this link: http://www.vadriven.com/forums/tech-...opping-400025/
I just did one simple google search of 1991 civic Fuse 14 and that is what I found. You should be able to find your answer somewhere soon.
Good luck.
Definitely sounds like a grounding issue. You may need to check your three major grounds and see what's going on. The transmission ground, thermostat housing ground, and valve cover ground are all very important. If you are blowing fuses, there is probably an electrical issue with the device that fuse controls. If you just keep replacing the fuse, you may end up damaging the system sometime.
Check the wires to the alternator. Follow them through the harness. There may be a bad wire. Fuse 14 is the alternator. The alternator may be causing the fuse to blow because it's not functioning properly. If you have access to an alternator, try swapping them to see if it changes. If not, check the wires for sure.
I have also read that the fuel pump could cause this issue. Pinched wires, or exposed wires near the fuel pump. Check under your back seat for failed wires.
Okay, so things on that #14 fuse:
PGM-FI ECU
fuel pump
emissions control solenoid valves
EACV
PGM-FI main relay
voltage regulator
http://hondatech.info/downloads/Auto/Manuals/Civic/
PGM-FI ECU
fuel pump
emissions control solenoid valves
EACV
PGM-FI main relay
voltage regulator
http://hondatech.info/downloads/Auto/Manuals/Civic/
So the #14 fuse is the only fuse for the fuel pump. It actually shouldn't be hard to determine whether this is a wiring problem or a device problem. If it's a device problem, unplugging the devices (fuel pump, EACV, voltage regulator, etc) should make the fuse NOT blow. If it's a wiring problem, the fuse will still blow with all the loads (devices) unplugged.
The ignition switch switches power directly to the #14 fuse, which is why the fuse is blowing as soon as you turn the key.
I'm still poking around in the schematics.
Do me a favor... Unplug the main relay and then see what happens. The fuel pump is the only load on the #14 fuse that goes through the main relay, and everything else is connected before the main relay. Unplugging the main relay will isolate everything on the fuel pump circuit after that point, so that may shed some light on things.
The ignition switch switches power directly to the #14 fuse, which is why the fuse is blowing as soon as you turn the key.
I'm still poking around in the schematics.
Do me a favor... Unplug the main relay and then see what happens. The fuel pump is the only load on the #14 fuse that goes through the main relay, and everything else is connected before the main relay. Unplugging the main relay will isolate everything on the fuel pump circuit after that point, so that may shed some light on things.
I just did one simple google search of 1991 civic Fuse 14 and that is what I found. You should be able to find your answer somewhere soon.
Good luck.
#4
Re: 1991 civic lx fuse 14
Thanks man! I appreciate the info and I'll check out those grounds, the fuel pump area and the alternator. I had charged the battery earlier and went to go start it again earlier and the battery was dead again so i will start with that and report back
#6
Re: 1991 civic lx fuse 14
Sorry about the delayed response but..
I bought a new alternator because the last one was bad and also from a Mitsubishi . And also replaced the battery. The car ran a little more strong but after 20 minutes or so the fuse popped again. Should the next step be fuel pump?
I bought a new alternator because the last one was bad and also from a Mitsubishi . And also replaced the battery. The car ran a little more strong but after 20 minutes or so the fuse popped again. Should the next step be fuel pump?
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