PolkaSauce

So, the ac on my 03 Crv has been a little finicky. It still blows cold air plenty, but only steadily at higher rpms. At idle, the air is still cool, not warm. But it's not cold like while in motion. The other thing is, when at idle, the rpms will dip really low, like to the point where the car feels like it's about to stall, shakes the whole engine. You can hear the compressor try to cycle on, but it shuts right back off. And it will do this about every 5-7 seconds while at idle. Once I get moving, it runs fine, other than the immense horsepower draw that can be felt while trying to get the car in motion, but I was under the impression, that it's common for that. Took it to a mechanic to get it recharged, thinking maybe it was just old refrigerant/low pressure/old compressor oil. First time they didn't notice the symptoms I was experiencing. I guess it only does it at operating temps? So I took it back today while it was doing it, and they said, needs a new compressor. Then, they call me back with an estimate for 2100-2700, stating the Honda TSB suggests a full system replacement, and that a new oem compressor alone is 1100(I priced it, they weren't lying). Now I know this is in part due to the common black death that plagues my generation of crv. But my ac compressor has not yet imploded. There's no black smoke in the vents, still blows ice cold. Just feels like the compressor has a lot of resistance at idle. I really don't want to spend almost 3000 on a new AC system if it's not necessary. I'm thinking of just replacing the compressor and condenser myself since it looks a little beat up.

Does this sound like the black death is already set in motion? Or does it sound like something I can prevent by replacing parts now? I'd hate to replace and have them fail again. But also would hate to spend more than half the cost of the car unnecessarily.

Just looking for some opinions. Not in a huge rush to fix it, but it's gonna start getting pretty hot soon.

Smackin

If this were my car, I would replace the compressor only, make sure I got a really good vacuum and recharge. I wouldn’t even touch the condenser. “If it ain’t broke; don’t fix it” comes to mind.

The shop might just be covering their ***, just in case it happens to be the Black Death or whatever. They would hate to replace your compressor only to find out it needs an entire system plus the one compressor they just contaminated.

But since like you said the AC still works at higher rpms - could take a chance on just the compressor.

$1100 is ouch territory. Does rockauto have any?

On a side note, I think my CRV is beginning to do the same ****. Haha.

PolkaSauce

RockAuto has a few, not too badly priced. Actually if I'm not mistaken, when I looked up the oem compressor, the manufacturer is keihin, which listed on any OEM Honda parts site is minimum 800. But RockAuto has one for 255 new. Wonder how that makes sense haha. But then there is a full kit, compressor, condenser, hoses, evap core, literally everything, for 475 on some Buyautoparts site. I've seen a few blogs mention the kit and they speak highly of it. I'm hesitant to even buy anything now though, cause the mechanic only did a visual diagnosis, and just assumed bad ac compressor. Never actually did any real system testing or anything, which kind of pisses me off now that I think about it. I mean I see some people saying it could be something as simple as a pressure switch. Not on crv specifically of course, but sameish symptoms. Which if it's doing it at low rpms/idle, that could possibly be lowside pressure switch right? Am I just wishful thinking? I'd much rather replace a cheap switch than a compressor, much less an entire system haha.

Ozmodiar

Do your radiator and condenser fans both run when the A/C is running? Both fans failed on my 2003 and my mechanic said that contributes to the death of the compressor. Once the compressor fails it implodes and contaminates the entire system with debris like metal shards. If the system is not completely cleaned or replaced, those shards will cause another premature compressor failure later on.

PolkaSauce

Yes, everything turns on as it should. All the relays function properly. I actually replaced the radiator fan last year because it was spinning wobbly, and also replaced the fan temp switch on the radiator. Car never gets hot, and I hardly use the ac. Actually use the defrost more than the ac, which I know still kicks on the compressor. But, it doesn't produce the same symptoms as when the AC is on. Which leads me to think maybe the compressor isn't actually going out, and that there is something else going on. I'm aware of the black death issue, which is why I'm trying to nip this in the bud before it comes to that lol

0OEDRO

Yitamotor has too, and the price is right. Honda compressor

PolkaSauce

Turns out it was black death after all. Opened up the receiver dryer and surprise surprise, metal shards. So I ended up replacing my entire ac system. All except the aluminum liquid lines. Wasn't too bad except for the evap core, what a pain in the *** that was. Took it to a shop to get charged up, vacuum held perfect, pressure is good. Air, not so cold? It's slightly colder than the ambient air outside unless I'm hitting the freeway. Then it starts to get a bit colder. Compressor is working fine, fans turn on properly. Heater valve opens and closes fine. Cabin filters are changed.The low side line gets ice cold to the touch. Any ideas?

Smackin

Is your a/c recirculate working properly? Idk what it takes to do an evaporator on these - did you mess with any doors or actuators?

you said you replaced everything in the system except the lines; did you replace the a/c service port valves? Maybe check those to see if you’ve got a small leak again?

My 02 CRV has this same issue - crappy temps at idle or slow moving. Maybe we just need better condenser fans? Lol

PolkaSauce

Pulled the blower motor to get to the evap. But put it back as I found it. Did a visual and watched the actuators cycle through the different positions. Everything looked good. System held vacuum. They let it sit with vacuum for 5 mins to make sure there were no leaks, needle didn't move. I did change the suction hose (low side port) and the return line to the condenser. Just not the liquid lines, they're like $100 a piece(just those lines together cost almost as much as all the parts I replaced combined). The thing is, even with my janky old compressor, when it did work, it was ice cold. So I don't think it's my condenser fan. Almost wondering, my stock condenser wasn't coated, this one is. Could that be affecting the cooling performance perhaps? The trade off being it's protected for longevity, but less effective? Or maybe there's a break in period? I don't think I put too much pag oil. Measured according to online specs.


As for yours, how's your condenser looking? Could be an easy fix with a light spray down.

canister

Did you replace the expansion valve too?

PolkaSauce

Yep. Replaced everything but the aluminum liquid lines. I know it can get really cold, when I run it at night it's ice air. So it seems dependent on the temp outside. Which leads me back to thinking it has something to do with the coating on the condenser.

PolkaSauce

Almost 100% certain the condenser being coated is the issue now. Took the car out to the desert and the AC was worthless. Got better cooling with the windows down. Mind you it wasn't blowing hot. Still just the same ambient air as usual. Once we got into an area that was maybe 10° cooler, and a good amount of speed, air got pretty frosty. On a side note, does anyone elses blower feel kind of weak in this particular model? Or is mine on its way out. Mine feels like a gentle breeze where as other cars feel like a strong gust of wind.

canister

That or the fans

PolkaSauce

Both fans operate as they should. Temp never gets over halfway.

CR V-Mod

Hi I read quite a lot here by what everyone has an idea or a good idea of what possibly it may be.

A common problem having those problems may or could be... 2 loose bolts that hold the A/C compressor in. I now have had pretty much the exact issue with the cold working very well, but a real obnoxious rattling sound, but my noise would go away at 2000 rpms. If they are really loose the whole car will feel like the motor is shaking. After going to a few places including the A/C specialist technician I finally had my mechanic find within 1 minute what it was. Yes it was both bolts about 1/3 of an in out and loose. he told me that he had the same problem with someone who had a 05 CRV with loose bolts 2 months prior. My case is that the 2 bolts were actually too long so they are fixing it now as i type. Mind you I also had a real serious issue with my car cooling abit. After so long of thinking it was the very worst and all kinds of odd ideas from everyone. i decided to open the fresh air or cowl vent in the engine compartment and found this! The vent was not closing correctly because the seal was just old. I made a cover and duct taped it shut permanently,. Well I can remove it, but it is hot always here for the most part and I would never use the outside air anyway to go through my system. Now my car blows cubes even when it is about 95 degrees it is cool or cold. So just a reminder that the bolts can come loose naturally, but my bolts were just too long and old lock washers are just no good to use over and over and over. they lose there locking ability. I would love to know if you fixed it and what you had done. God speed and best of luck for you.

canister

IIRC Honda sells you an adjustable rear ball joint for $400 while RA sells the same for $40. It's the dealer markup.
Just bought a starter from RA for close to nothing. It is the same model as OEM but costs a fraction.
It's great to have a seller like RA!

CR V-Mod

@ Canister Wow that is really outstanding! Decent or better quality or equal to at a fraction of the cost too. Nice to know... I bet you are grinning like Cheshire cat now mate!

Anyway got my V back after about 2 weeks and all bushings done and also a new power steering pulley too, but I had a problem with my A/C that made the engine sound like a nasty rattle knocking. Sure enough my mech found that all 4 bolts were loose on my A/C compressor mount and one was just wrongly put in. It was too long to start with and also the threads had stripped out from the aluminum block. The threads were very weak. So 2 were replaced and 2 were tightened. the stripped one was the next size up and teflon tape with "Lock Tight". It really did not matter about that bolt , but it would just stay in as a support is all and not move. Well conclusion is... What a sweeeeet ride now!
No more noise, so smooth and I have a turbo charger anyway so never mind for me to say how nice it is to hit the throttle

Oh I am really excited to say that I have my 2017 CRV 17in rims coming soon and 235 65 R17 Yokohama's and then i will get my Computer alignment.

I looked at what i typed and it seems like I am almost expecting a baby instead of new rims and tires! My wife just shrugs her shoulders, rolls her eyes, and shakes her head when I get excited about some new part or accessory.. She does see that I'm smiling so that is a plus.

Happy motoring to all.