moejoepotatoe

I have a b16a sir2 obd1 with a chipped p28 ecu that's set up for a 4 wire o2 sensor. I keep getting a cel code 1 followed by a low idle, not sure if the low idle causes the code or vice versa and the sensor is new.

However its a sensor for a 94 civic del sol and I read I should have a 02 sensor from a 92 gsr. This is the second o2 sensor I've had, its a bosch (I know I know). Will my engine temp have anything to do with this? I feel like its running too hot even though fan is always runnning, the gauge sits almost at exactly half. Thermostat is new and coolant was burped, before I changed t-stat gauge would fluctuate now it sits at a steady practically hal way mark.

Any help is appreciated, ignore the temp issue if its not tied to the code 1 low idle.

kwijibodavid

when it comes to the temp guage u didnt say but im assuming u have a tach so the fuel and coolant are on the same side if not its normal-ish (at least with a d16) but if it is its more then likely thats high u said it had a new thermo do u know the temp on it cause thats what determans the engines op temp and that may be givin your o2 a bad signal causing the low idle, also do u have a half or full size radiator being a b16 you should have a full size radiator

moejoepotatoe

Thanks fo the input. Yes my gas and temp are on the same side and I DO have a half radiator and I believe the temp on the T-stat is a 170 degree one. So is the o2 sensor compatible with my engine or should I get the 92 gsr? I'm on the verge of buying the "right one".

HondaPartsHero

That 02 will work.

moejoepotatoe

Thanks PartsHero!

So David I'm going to upgrade my radiator to the full size GSR one. I found a few write ups on how to do it and it seems pretty simple. Is there any specific year GSR I should be looking for or does anyone recommend a full sie direct fit radiator? Its a 92 civic cx with b16 and 4 to 1 headers, no a/c components at all.

Thanks.

Thanks.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Don't see anything in your posts that warrant a full sized rad.

moejoepotatoe

Hey Grumble! You don't? So is my temp gauge too high, it sits like 1/16" below half way. One thing I do notice is when I start driving after turning on the car for the first time the gauge will sit about 3/4 to half way for a few miles then slowly climb to where its at (1/16" below half way) now. Then I get the low idle folled by the CEL for o2 sensor. Turn car off then on idles fine for about a mintue then goes back to low idle followed by CEL for o2 sensor, all the while the temp is at the "half way" point. I feel like the high temp is causing the low idle and the low idle is causing the CEL.

What do you think cause if I don't need a new radiator tha would save me a 100 bucks.

kwijibodavid

from what u just said it sounds like ur temp needle maybe miss calibrated iirc ur needle should start all the way down when u first start it when cold some one may have converted the guage in from a auto to manual cus aoutos are easier to find with a tach at least in my area. if it was converted they pull the needles off and put them back on so they could be miss calibrated.

have u tried cleaning ur throttle body and iacv cus if the trottle body is dirty it may not be letting enough air in when closed. causing a low idle

also u never said what the rpm were sitting at when idling

Hidenplanvew

O2 sensor will work, most you have to wire in a new connector. Its pretty easy just take your time and make sure to do it correctly. Did you turn on the heater and park on an incline while burping the ststem and also make sure to let it run for about 20 to 30 mins? About 1/2 on the gauge is normal aslong as it dosent go much higher then that. There is an adjustment for idle in the helms, sometimes you do need to adjust it ... Whats your sitting at anyways? Also a 1/2 size Rad work just fine for B series, there are 900+ whp cars running smaller then 1/2 size rads. Yours will be just fine, you can get a full alum one if you want and would be less work and add some "bling" to your engine bay.

moejoepotatoe

Hey David thanks. As far as the TB I cleaned it with seafoam about 2 weeks ago but the problem never went away, I also bought a known working used IACV. The needle sits below the "C" when the engine is turned on for the first time (or all the way cold).

Thanks Hiden! The only reason I feel adjusting the idle is not needed is because when the temp sits at 3/4 to half for the first few miles it idles perfect with full power. Once it starts to climb I feel a slight loss of power and then the idle drops follwed by the CEL.

By the way the idle drops to about 250ish to 500ish usually 500 though.

So if I go for the radiator swap is it the 93 Da or 94 that'll fit in my 92 EG?

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

So what? So does mine. It gets there and stays there. Has since the car's been boosted. Don't really recall before that.

moejoepotatoe

So why is it affecting my idle?

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Hm. And you know that concretely how? It's probably that "chipped" ECU. Somehow everyone is concentrating on your "feeling" of overheating (and it's not) when you should be trying to track down what's causing the CEL. And you mentioned a low idle BUT HAVE YET to say what the low idle actually is. You know, as in ? RPMs?

This is voodoo tech and no way to troubleshoot.

moejoepotatoe

Because as I said, the idle is fine until it reaches that "high" point, then it starts to idle rough and low (see post #10, as in after #9 before #11 to see what I mean by low). Your "probably that 'chipped' ECU" sounds like your just grabbing things out your butt. Either way I bought the radiator and will do the swap an report back once I'm done incase someone has the same issue. Can't hurt to run cooler anyways.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Do you know what's on the "chip"? Doubtful. I think I know a few things about basemapped ECUS and how most of them are bunk especially when bought off of Ebay. Sounds like YOU'RE the one grasping at straws. The car does not overheat do the temp should not be the issue. Diagnose what is causing the CEL to trip. Dollars to donuts it aint the temp.

Good luck with that "buying random parts based off of a feeling" method of troubleshooting. My wife's car was running a little rough for a few weeks. Started tripping the same CEL code. Temp was the same. Idled rough too. Turns out the timing was a bit off and had the car running rich. I figured that out with solid troubleshooting. Not a "feeling".

moejoepotatoe

so what youre saying is i should check my timing? if you experienced the same thing i am it was the timing then why didnt you say that in the first place instead of saying "ECU! ECU!".

or do you just scroll through different threads ranting like a woman on her PMS? every single comment youve made has been useless, if your not gonna help then shut the hell up. you sound so bitter just cause your not the man of your house dont come on here trying to be one.
anyone else have any input?

nevermind nevermind ,continue being a grumpy old man, i just noticed your name lol

97_ek_coupe

It's amazing what a little reading before putting people down can do. It can even give you useful information!

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Possibly because I just finished fixing the car since the issue was just brought to my attention? Possibly because i'm trying to understand how you figured out a car that isn't overheating is possibly causing your CEL to go off and your idle to fall? My idle also drops a tad when my fan come on so I guess I need to replace my rad too?

And always ALWAYS the noobs with the juvenile name calling? Really?
Like you've never missed anything?

Another noob. But really, what has this got to do with needing a full sized rad?

97_ek_coupe

Oh, so now we post comments with the issue at hand? Maybe you should follow your own advice. And I actually do miss many things. Only difference is, I don't act like I know everything and I dont purposely try to offend anyone. You basically brung it upon yourself for being a smartass. Dont dish what you cant take.

Oh no, he called me a noob...

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

I've been posting comments on the issue at hand.

What is on the basemap on the "chipped" ECU? I've seen a lot of Ebay basemaps cause really weird and random issues on this forum. I wonder why the OP isn't using a stock on for the engine?
How do you figure that replacing a rad on a car that is not overheating is causing a CEL for the O2 to trip and supposedly cause a low idle?

Anyone want to answer those? I originally tried to prevent the OP from purchasing a full-sized rad when it wasn't needed and urged him to focus on whatever was tripping the CEL. I was boosted running a stock half-sized rad and never overheated or tripped a CEL.

I see you in the post attacking me but do YOU have advice for the OP?

97_ek_coupe

I wasn't just referring to this post, i was talking about your posts in general. 80% of the ones ive read you post are insightful, but pointlessly on the offensive. Like, for no reason at ALL. The other 20% are just purely pointlessly on the offensive. Now im not gonna sit here and reply to you again, but have some respect. Most these people have issues with their cars theyre trying to figure out, no need to kick them while theyre down. If you dont have constructed criticism, dont give any criticism. Do that **** in person with anyone and see where it takes you.

As for advice to the op, hes right, my buddy runs his b18 dd with boost and a half sized rad, he hasnt had any cel's in almost a year. With some heavy usage too...so i doubt the radiators the issue. This guys still a jerk though.

End rant