Wheel hop
#1
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: I drive really, slow, US
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Wheel hop
Ever since i put my new tires, the launch has became so harsh. The tires are trying to grip too much and its giving me crazy wheel hop. The stock wheels i had on before just burnout and had no wheel hop. I know its better this way because it’s gripping better but is there a way to make it not as harsh on the launch?
#7
Re: (AllstockSIke)
motor mounts, suspension, traction bars.... theres a bunch of stuff you can do. In your case the best bet would just be some nice shocks and springs. NO CHEAP *** EBAY **** EITHER!!!!!!
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#9
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Re: (AllstockSIke)
It will help but only slightly. It will probably help mostly because the camber angle will be increased, meaning you'll have less contact patch on launch. Not that it's a bad thing, pretty normal when lowering.
I'd recommend changing the rear tranny mount with one from HASport.
Also, you have an EK right? Check that your drivers side mount is intact. They break super easily, and are also available from HASPort.
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I'd recommend changing the rear tranny mount with one from HASport.
Also, you have an EK right? Check that your drivers side mount is intact. They break super easily, and are also available from HASPort.
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#11
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Re: (AllstockSIke)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AllstockSIke »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Good stuff, thanx. So you think the mount would help better than strut bars?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah definately. Think of the chassis as one system, and the engine of another system. Wheel hop is more caused by the engine system than the chassis system, or rather the 'intersection' of the two. Strengthen one and you must strengthen the other to compensate. You increased chassis with stickies, so now you gotta hold that motor in place better. You probably know, but all wheel hop is is basically the motor bouncing around in the motor mounts. It's trying to 'turn over' out of the mounts, but the metal and rubber stop it, causing it to bounce back, and it starts over again. Thats why mounts tear. I always tell my friends if they're getting wheel hop, let off the gas before something breaks. I've heard people break driveshafts from wheel hop, but I think it's usually motor mounts tear.
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Yeah definately. Think of the chassis as one system, and the engine of another system. Wheel hop is more caused by the engine system than the chassis system, or rather the 'intersection' of the two. Strengthen one and you must strengthen the other to compensate. You increased chassis with stickies, so now you gotta hold that motor in place better. You probably know, but all wheel hop is is basically the motor bouncing around in the motor mounts. It's trying to 'turn over' out of the mounts, but the metal and rubber stop it, causing it to bounce back, and it starts over again. Thats why mounts tear. I always tell my friends if they're getting wheel hop, let off the gas before something breaks. I've heard people break driveshafts from wheel hop, but I think it's usually motor mounts tear.
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#13
Re: (AllstockSIke)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AllstockSIke »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok, thanks alot. Engine mounts it is then.</TD></TR></TABLE>
But as with most mods, you're compromising somewhat...stiffer motor mounts means less wheel hop, BUT more in-car vibration, so keep that in mind. If you think it's worth it, then by all means...motor mounts.
But as with most mods, you're compromising somewhat...stiffer motor mounts means less wheel hop, BUT more in-car vibration, so keep that in mind. If you think it's worth it, then by all means...motor mounts.
#14
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Re: (professor poon)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by professor poon »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">But as with most mods, you're compromising somewhat...stiffer motor mounts means less wheel hop, BUT more in-car vibration, so keep that in mind. If you think it's worth it, then by all means...motor mounts.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah I forgot to mention that. They'll cause your interior plastics to 'buzz' when it's cold. But I guess I meant for him to replace broken mounts first. That may help.
Also, the front crash mounts- you can get inserts for those that may help. Never used them myself, but it's a cheaper alternative.
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Yeah I forgot to mention that. They'll cause your interior plastics to 'buzz' when it's cold. But I guess I meant for him to replace broken mounts first. That may help.
Also, the front crash mounts- you can get inserts for those that may help. Never used them myself, but it's a cheaper alternative.
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#15
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It was all sounding to easy, so there had to be a catch.. lol . I guess ill check the mounts and see if any are broken. But if they all are still in good cond. Then is this normal for it to be so harsh of a launch?
#16
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Re: (AllstockSIke)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AllstockSIke »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It was all sounding to easy, so there had to be a catch.. lol . I guess ill check the mounts and see if any are broken. But if they all are still in good cond. Then is this normal for it to be so harsh of a launch?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'd say it occurs more often than not, but it is hard on everything so I recommend avoiding it.
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I'd say it occurs more often than not, but it is hard on everything so I recommend avoiding it.
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