the.hamburglar

for a few days now my tach goes crazy under any load. when i cruise at a constant speed speed it is fine. also since this has been starting to happen my car will not start when warm and sometime dies in the middle of traffic. it also bucks and almost stall when i give it load. its something electrical. any ideas? i did a search and came up with main relay but would that explain the tach?

riceburnerryan

i think that it has something to do with a ground? do a search i think there is a topic about this

BluLude

its probably your coil

the.hamburglar

oh yeah, would a b16 coil fit an LS dizzy? if i have a bad coil that might also explain why its cutting out. but my air fuel guage show it leaning out as the rpm goes up and then it dies at like 5000rpm

the.hamburglar

oh yeah i forgot to mention that i also am NOT throwing any codes. at idle i have a slight misfire at 750 but at like 1000 as its warming up its fine

BluLude

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by the.hamburglar &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">oh yeah, would a b16 coil fit an LS dizzy? if i have a bad coil that might also explain why its cutting out. but my air fuel guage show it leaning out as the rpm goes up and then it dies at like 5000rpm</TD></TR></TABLE>

the coils should fit, best way to check it out is actually take a look but I'm like almost positive they fit, with the air fuel guage, i really don't trust those things and the reading could mean anything --you're cars stalling so no fuels being burnt or something along those lines-- i would swap the coils and see wut happens...let me know

good luck

the.hamburglar

no i have a wideband. it works good. if no fuel is being burned then it wold run rich wouldnt it? hmmm. thanks i have another b16 dizzy in the garge. il l look tommorow

BluLude

what i mean is like if your car is stalled, or like no combustion is actually happening then it could show lean...im probably not using the right words but hopefully you get what I'm trying to say

the.hamburglar

but all that fuel is not burned so its running rich and dying because of it. but i think your right because that is what the guage is showing. any other sympoms of a tac going all over the place under load. at idle its fine and no codes. but it has a noticable miss when warming up. also when in nuutral i rev the motor to 4000 and then it will die

97mini-me

I agree. I believe it's most likely your coil. Since you have one already just give it a shot. Really easy fix. Only like 20 minutes to swap them out. Good luck. Let us know if that fixes it.

hondacrx92

my tach does exactly the same thing under load, it jumps all over the place, but is fine sitting at a steady speed. I bought a new distributor a while back and i think my problem started since i got it, ive had my timing checked out, its fine, but i still get pinking under load. If you find an answer to your tach problem please let me know, and as for the pinking, i am totally annoyed as to what is causing it.

the.hamburglar

pinking? you mean pinging. that is detonation. your timing is advanced to retard it a few degrees. as for the coil im working on that right now. are b16 ignitors the same as ls?

97mini-me

They should have part numbers on them. Look at them closely. If they appear to be the same they probably are. Alot of times manufacturers will change a part number because they use a different company to make the same part.

the.hamburglar

just found this about ICM's. not my writing. so all icm are interchangable

"This is a sale for a brand new genuine Honda Acura OBD0 OBD1 OBD2 Hitachi Model E12-303 0424 Igniter Control Module from Japan (heat-sink bracket not included but sold separately, please enquire if needed). It can be installed on many Honda, Acura OBD0, OBD1 and OBD2 Distributors, VTEC or non-VTEC. The applications are very wide. Please e-mail us when uncertain and make your own checks regarding your application.



Buyers need to check the fitment to the heat sink holding bracket on their distributors. Other brands new igniter control module are available upon request includes NEC & OKI, subject to availability. To prevent premature failures, it is important to fit the igniter control module properly so as to ensure proper heat transfer and prevent excessive vibration.



The obvious symptom of a faulty igniter control module is after several futile attempts to start the engine and prolonged cranking, Check Engine light turns on. With the service connector jumped, CODE 15 is indicated. It is highly likely a fault relating with the ignition output signal/igniter module. (It may take about 20 seconds of cranking to set off the code)



A faulty igniter module also gives the same hot hard starting symptoms as a faulty main relay. The difference is that for the igniter module, the fuel pump can be heard working after the ignition is turned on, simultaneously the check engine light lights up for about 2 seconds. The other symptoms includes erratic movement of the tachometer needle when the engine is operating and sudden stalling of the engine.



Potential buyers are to make sure the other sub-systems or ECU are working well before making their own conclusions"

the.hamburglar

got the tac fixed. it was either the icm or coil. i swapped them both. but now at idle it still misses also when i rev it up. but it hasnt stalled yet and it hasnt cut out when driving. would this be a possible main relay? but it also starts fine when warm.....i just need this misfire fixed then im good to go