Wet compression test results
#1
Wet compression test results
Hey honda bro's. I'm back with another question. I have the 2000 civic ex 5 speed with 132k that has an oil burning issue.
I've noticed that if i add some oil and then start the car right after it will smoke pretty bad. On most cold start ups, the car will smoke a tiny bit but mainly give a decent cloud on take off. then when warm it only really smokes in higher rpms. I managed to fix the sputtering i was having by putting the ebay header back on. (for some reason the stock header was causing it.) I have a pretty obnoxious exhaust leak tho since the down pipe doesn't fit to the cat very well. anyways. I did a cold compression test a few days ago and these are my results:
C1: 130 C2: 182 C3: 164 C4: 165
After this test I drove the car a bit to get it nice and hot. Then i removed the #1 spark plug and poured some MMO onto the top of the piston. I let it sit a few hours and added more once it drained. did a comp on cylinder 1 the next day cold and got roughly the same result. I then poured a bit of oil into the cylinder and the compression went up to 140 psi. 10 psi isn't really enough of an increase to say for sure its the piston right? the exhaust ports and valve stems on this head are disgustingly dirty with carbon build up (the piston crowns all are pretty clean most likely from my treatments). You can clearly see 1 of the exhaust valve seals are leaking on 3 of the cylinders. (1-3) cylinder 4 is the least dirty and not leaking. I'm going to attempt to change the seals with the head on the engine using the rope method. I'm just not fully comfortable with putting the rocker assembly back on. I have a Chilton that i need to read carefully and i'm sure it will tell me what I need to know. I also have a feeler gauge set so i can attempt a valve adjustment afterwards. I'm really hoping changing these seals will help and at least slow the consumption down. The car doesn't go through coolant at all. the reservoir does have some gunk in it though. Car runs fine now that I fixed the sputtering. It does idle a bit low sometimes when i come to a stop but it has never died on me. Starts right up like a champ every time, besides taking a few more cranks when i'm getting under half a tank of gas. I do smell gas sometimes at idle though. No cels besides my secondary o2 sensor going bad. It was rubbing on the shift linkage and damaged some of the wires. Thanks for the help.
Cylinder 1 exhaust port leaking valve seal - port is a bit wet all over from the MMO soak. I started the car after the soak, was just a bit of the leftover MMO going through the exhaust.
I've noticed that if i add some oil and then start the car right after it will smoke pretty bad. On most cold start ups, the car will smoke a tiny bit but mainly give a decent cloud on take off. then when warm it only really smokes in higher rpms. I managed to fix the sputtering i was having by putting the ebay header back on. (for some reason the stock header was causing it.) I have a pretty obnoxious exhaust leak tho since the down pipe doesn't fit to the cat very well. anyways. I did a cold compression test a few days ago and these are my results:
C1: 130 C2: 182 C3: 164 C4: 165
After this test I drove the car a bit to get it nice and hot. Then i removed the #1 spark plug and poured some MMO onto the top of the piston. I let it sit a few hours and added more once it drained. did a comp on cylinder 1 the next day cold and got roughly the same result. I then poured a bit of oil into the cylinder and the compression went up to 140 psi. 10 psi isn't really enough of an increase to say for sure its the piston right? the exhaust ports and valve stems on this head are disgustingly dirty with carbon build up (the piston crowns all are pretty clean most likely from my treatments). You can clearly see 1 of the exhaust valve seals are leaking on 3 of the cylinders. (1-3) cylinder 4 is the least dirty and not leaking. I'm going to attempt to change the seals with the head on the engine using the rope method. I'm just not fully comfortable with putting the rocker assembly back on. I have a Chilton that i need to read carefully and i'm sure it will tell me what I need to know. I also have a feeler gauge set so i can attempt a valve adjustment afterwards. I'm really hoping changing these seals will help and at least slow the consumption down. The car doesn't go through coolant at all. the reservoir does have some gunk in it though. Car runs fine now that I fixed the sputtering. It does idle a bit low sometimes when i come to a stop but it has never died on me. Starts right up like a champ every time, besides taking a few more cranks when i'm getting under half a tank of gas. I do smell gas sometimes at idle though. No cels besides my secondary o2 sensor going bad. It was rubbing on the shift linkage and damaged some of the wires. Thanks for the help.
Cylinder 1 exhaust port leaking valve seal - port is a bit wet all over from the MMO soak. I started the car after the soak, was just a bit of the leftover MMO going through the exhaust.
#2
Re: Wet compression test results
Wet compression test means you warm up the engine, test the compression of all 4 cylinders "dry" and note the results. Then put one teaspoon of regular motor oil in the cylinder to be tested, no need to wait any, and test again.
Smoking worse when you floor it is from the rings, not the valve seals. If you ever see smoke in the rearview mirror, there is a lot more smoke that you can't see. Follow in another car and watch from there.
Smoking worse when you floor it is from the rings, not the valve seals. If you ever see smoke in the rearview mirror, there is a lot more smoke that you can't see. Follow in another car and watch from there.
#4
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