SiRCiviC94

I've never been able to get this car to idle under 1000rpm. 1200 is the normal.

for anyone reading with this issue follow this write up now
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-accord-1990-2002-2/cleaning-iacv-fitv-tb-1844067/

Here's the symptom.

My car is warm and at 2000 rpm today I adjust the tps (which I think isn't working right) no change. I unplugged te iacv it idles down to 1100 n stays there. I plug it back in the idle goes up then settles down the starts burping babumbabumbaumbum till I rev it flip the key off and on (resets something) & I'm
Back at my normal 1200.

It's going to be nice to see a steady 700rpm out of this and adjust it where I want.

Just looking for extra thought. I remember I couldn't get the right voltage out of
The tps but close. I've tried two clean iacv. The fitv I have no addressed

This is on the p72 I get a cel for secondary o2 sometimes but not often. My chipped ecu car runs the same just never any cel

HondaPartsHero

year/make/model/trim?

SiRCiviC94

Thx 96 Gsr swap in 98 Ek dx!

Can I program the target idle lower and get the results I want?

HondaPartsHero

Did you convert to the 2 wire IACV at the plug and the ECU?

Former User

OBD1 or OBD2 ECU? CEL codes? Do the engine have an FITV?

zeinhonda

just a thought.... vacuum leak?

SiRCiviC94

Here we go. I didn't swap this it's probably a two wire . It's the civic dx harness with the vtec wires ran. I put the conversion harness and chipped ecu Gsr program disabled secondary o2 in. No burping just a 1200 idle still.

More info on why convert the iac wire? I pulled one off an ls teg so probably still 2 wire.

Any links or info how to change or if programming can be set up to fix this?

It has a fitv unfortunately they stopped those in 97 I think... Never took it apart I don't really want to its a bitch

Former User

Click the FITV link in my signature.

What ECU?

Shadowcat

I might be able to help. You said you couldnt get the right voltage on the tps and i had the same issues you have in my h22 civic. I know you have room to
Get to the tps but just to be sure. Remove the entire throttle body and pull off the tps. There is a little arm on the tps and there's going to be a little slot in which that arm goes into on the throttle body make sure that arm goes into the correct spot its kind of hard too see it with the throttle body on. Once its in rotate the tps and put the little screws back in and adjust the tps with the throttle body off and you should adjust .4v closed and 5v WOT. Reinstall and check for any vacuum leaks with some brake or carb cleaner that could also cause a slight high idle. Also make sure the exposed red signal wire is not contacting the ground

zeinhonda

Correct^. If it still has the tamper proof oem bolts that they break the heads off of when they were initially tightened there is an easy way to get them off usually... Just use a hammer and a flathead (standard) screw driver. Set the screw driver on the wager of the machine screw and tap the handle of the screw driver with the hammer. Be sure to do this counter clockwise. 9/10 times this will allow you to remove them much faster then using a hack saw blade to put a slot in it for removal. Also you can do it with the tb still connected

Shadowcat

Yup ^ i had to remove my throttle body because the intake mani sits so close to the firewall. This little mistake gave me hell in trying to get it to idle right and drive without sputtering. I also assumed you already had an aftermarket tps that had the factory bolts removed

SiRCiviC94

Might be a lil thing I gotta do over the weekend. The wires are good. No frays.

So when the tb is off try for the correct voltage with the wire connected in the bay I assume. It is thankfully a hex screw easily removed.

Now that the tb coming off I'd clean the fitv at the same
Time or replace the tps?

Will it need a new gasket? Pretty sure no vac leaks

Also I will bleed the coolant again after thanks!

Shadowcat

Yea when its off its a good idea to clean the fitv and if you don't know how to do it look at a diy on it there all the same just make sure that white plunger gets screwed all the way back in. If the tb gasket rips comming off or just looks worn enough its always a good idea to replace it. Before you go out and buy a 50 dollar tps make sure that arm is where it needs to be and your getting the correct voltage.

moejoepotatoe

Cleaning the fitv does wonders!

SiRCiviC94

Excited :p

SiRCiviC94

Think it's worth my money to put a skunk 2 manifold on here or fix the Gsr manifold setup? Going to either put my turbo kit on this or 80 shot

Shadowcat

If you have the cash to do so go for it. just make sure you get the right throttle body and even then N/A your not going to notice much of a gain until you boost it

Slomo_civic

Sorry to thread jack but I'm having the same issue but my setup is a little different. 94 eg with 98 gsr swap. Chipped p28 stock intake with IAB disabled. No fitv to clean. I'm stumped

SiRCiviC94

ive taken this apart now, sanded the tb with light grit that helped free it up a bit....

the fitv


maybe it needs replaced it looks clean inside. not sure what else to do here.

its a combo of all 3 it seems lol tps fitv and iacv.....great..

SiRCiviC94

good write up i shoulda looked at first:

https://honda-tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1844067