skipunk

I have a 93 civic ex. the other day my wife dropped about 1/2 a tank of gas in my car. On her way home from work, she said the car lunged forward like frogging almost when learning to drive a clutch. she drove about 30 miles at this point. it then started to lose power and died. after about 15 min the car started back up. she drove another 12 miles and it did the same thing. then 15 min later it started and then got home.

it threw codes on the ICM. The distributor is new. I replaced it when I swapped my motor to a D15B in July.

I ran through checking the dizzy and all the sensors and it all checked out ok. I changed out the fuel filter since it was a bit overdue and did my normal maintenance while I was at it. I drove the car around town yesterday. Only putting on about 15 miles or so. It seemed good.

This morning she drove the car back to work and about 30 miles into her drive, it did the same thing again.

I'm going to head in and look at the car. Is it possibly water in the gas or is the fuel pump going?

It has been really cold and she got gas at a cheapy place that I wouldn't think twice on going to. So not to sure which it is going to be.

thanks in advance.

skipunk

any one?

z6hatchboy

I dont think it has to do with fuel, but you could always check it. If the code was for the ICM, then i would say start there still yet.

rivaladore

i just did a search, map and tps sensor seemed to come up alot......sure you know how to check them?

new distributor means nothing, unless its OEM, if anything it makes me think you bought a cheap/used distributor. So what's the story?

z6hatchboy

^ x2 Didnt think of that, he has a great answer and that does happen a lot. Still dont know how it could relate to ICM code, reset ecu first.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

Besides the ICM, are there any other codes? Are all the connectors plugged into the CORRECT sensors? MAP/TPS always get switched up. So does coolant temp sensor and VTEC solenoid. Is your IAT present and in the air stream inside the intake? If your IAT is just hanging out outside the intake stream....like just hanging in the engine bay or somethign, your car will have hot running problems even without the CEL sometimes.

skipunk

The dizzy was purchased new at Napa when I did the swap in July. No codes were thrown since I replaced the o2 sensor mid july.

I have checked the dizzy, map, tps, ect all per the haynes manual. Everything checked out ok. When driving the car home last night, it did it again about 25 - miles into the drive. No codes thrown (i had reset the ecu before i brought the car home). this time the lights went dim and the car wouldn't crank. got the clack clack clack from the starter. then the car clock reset along with the radio when i turned the car on again. Had the car jumped and fired right up no problems.

I'm not sure how old the battery is, but there was some corrosion on the positive terminal. I'm thinking possibly the alternator as well. I have a spare one that I know is good and will swap that in and test the one currently in the car along with the battery.

This morning i got the car to start. internal lights were pretty dim. The first start was really hesitant in kicking over, like the battery was almost toast. after running a few min. i turned it off and started it again. kicked right over.

I'll see where this goes.

Hittnthebz

The problems while driving are exactly like the ones I am having. Sometimes I can make a 30 minutes drive without problems but most of the time it acts up after 10 minutes. Mine isnt throwing any codes at all though. Full tune up done prior to my car doing this so it shouldnt have anything to do with that. At first a mechanic friend said that the coil was bad but after replacing that I am leaning towards the ICM. I ordered one and Im just waiting on it so I can install.

Does ICM replacement require putting any silicone on the contacts? The picture of the part I bought shows silicone also so I just wanted to check.