VTEC Solenoid
11-08-2006, 08:30 AM
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VTEC Solenoid
I swapped a 97 B18C into my 97 EX a few months ago, and while wiring everything up, realized that there is no oil pressure switch on the VTEC solenoid. The spot for it is not even drilled, nor tapped for any such switch. I have a picture of it somewhere, but not with me right now. If anyone has any ideas, let me know. This is bugging me because VTEC will not work without me flipping the toggle switch I have wired up with a constant +12V source. I saw on ebay a while back that someone was selling a complete solenoid setup, and it did not have a switch in it either. What do you guys think?
11-08-2006, 09:09 AM
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11-08-2006, 11:11 AM
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Re:
On top of this, I was wondering if anyone could tell me if there is an easy way to test to see if the secondary runners are opening up at higher RPMs.
11-08-2006, 01:03 PM
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I had the same problem with the VTEC solenoid on my type-r motor. A lot of OBD2 engines don't have oil pressure switches - they're ECU controlled.
I ended up getting a vtec solenoid off a 2nd gen B16 and that worked well. You can also tap the hole in your B18C solenoid and put a pressure sensor into it, but I've seen it when it's not done right - there can be oil leaks.
I ended up getting a vtec solenoid off a 2nd gen B16 and that worked well. You can also tap the hole in your B18C solenoid and put a pressure sensor into it, but I've seen it when it's not done right - there can be oil leaks.
11-08-2006, 02:18 PM
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Re: VTEC Solenoid (SATimko)
depending on the year of the engine and if its jdm or usdm some engines do not have a vtec oil pressure sending unit and the ecu for that engine will not be programmed for it . i asked the same question when i got my new swap and thats the answer i got from steve a HMO.
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11-09-2006, 03:35 AM
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Re: VTEC Solenoid
Sorry about the broken picture link. I must have done something wrong when I did it.
Anyway, the engine is a 97 (supposedly), and is OBD1. When I check the CEL codes, the pressure switch is called out, so I don't know if it was programmed around it or not. Currently I flip a toggle switch at around 4500 - 5000 rpm when I want the solenoid to actuate. It does the job for now, but can be cumbersome from time to time.
My goal for the car is to turbo it, but I want to make sure everything is running properly before I do it. Currently, I've put 13k miles on it since April 12th when I finished the swap and this was one of the only issues.
The other issue, which I think I may have solved was an oscillating idle. I replaced the pre-cat O2 sensor and it seemed to calm down. If there's any other ideas to what would cause it, please let me know. It would jump from 750 to 1500 and back down, rather quickly.
Thanks for all the help. The engine work is going to be put on hold I'm afraid because of other things going wrong. 183k miles on the chassis and the usual stuff is starting to wear out. Tie rod ends, ball joints, both rear wheel cylinders, and shocks soon.
I think there are better pictures on my photobucket, but the network server here at work blocks it and I can't get into it, or else I would have linked to that.
Anyway, the engine is a 97 (supposedly), and is OBD1. When I check the CEL codes, the pressure switch is called out, so I don't know if it was programmed around it or not. Currently I flip a toggle switch at around 4500 - 5000 rpm when I want the solenoid to actuate. It does the job for now, but can be cumbersome from time to time.
My goal for the car is to turbo it, but I want to make sure everything is running properly before I do it. Currently, I've put 13k miles on it since April 12th when I finished the swap and this was one of the only issues.
The other issue, which I think I may have solved was an oscillating idle. I replaced the pre-cat O2 sensor and it seemed to calm down. If there's any other ideas to what would cause it, please let me know. It would jump from 750 to 1500 and back down, rather quickly.
Thanks for all the help. The engine work is going to be put on hold I'm afraid because of other things going wrong. 183k miles on the chassis and the usual stuff is starting to wear out. Tie rod ends, ball joints, both rear wheel cylinders, and shocks soon.
I think there are better pictures on my photobucket, but the network server here at work blocks it and I can't get into it, or else I would have linked to that.
