turbo?
#1
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turbo?
Okay guys im tierd of my shi## single cam, so im swapping it out for a OBD1 ls motor, and i want to turbo that ls motor without putting any internals in it because the swap might break my pockets lol. so how many PSI has ppl ran or how many do you think i can run on a daily driver LS?
#2
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PSI is irrelevant without knowing turbo trim and a/r and such..
More like 'how much horsepower can my stock block handle' and im not quite sure of LS. im sure its in the range of 300 whp.
Where do you plan to get your ls swap from?
Hmotorsonline is great. Ill never order a swap from anyone else.
More like 'how much horsepower can my stock block handle' and im not quite sure of LS. im sure its in the range of 300 whp.
Where do you plan to get your ls swap from?
Hmotorsonline is great. Ill never order a swap from anyone else.
#3
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its all in the tuning, most people probably run low boost, somewhere around 6-10psi.
just find someone who can tune it really good and you shouldn't really have to worry about anything going wrong
just find someone who can tune it really good and you shouldn't really have to worry about anything going wrong
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well the old shop i use to work at tunes really well, but i guess my question is that are LS's good to boost? are they strong to hold it? ppl have told me to boost a b16 but i dont like the prices im getting lol
#5
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It's not the "strength" of the LS that makes them a good candidate to run forced induction on them.
It's the low compression ratio that they have from the factory that makes them almost ideal for this application.
It's the low compression ratio that they have from the factory that makes them almost ideal for this application.
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also the b16 doesnt have nearly as much torque, but it would be a highway champ. LS's love boost, i suppose all DOHC hondas do.
no vtec, but with boost, ls would be fun.
im using a b16a SIR II and plan to boost soon, eventually want to LSVTEC
no vtec, but with boost, ls would be fun.
im using a b16a SIR II and plan to boost soon, eventually want to LSVTEC
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i wouldnt trust SSAC
their manifolds are ****
there is a cheap kit selling in the marketplace, 620, missing downpipe..
comes with a decent log mani, some warranties.... if you were to go cheap, thats the way
id replace the manfiold
then all you need is a tune, injectors and a fuel pump
be careful, get a good tune. Just remember, buy cheap, buy twice.
But, when you buy it the 2nd time, at least use something trusted.
their manifolds are ****
there is a cheap kit selling in the marketplace, 620, missing downpipe..
comes with a decent log mani, some warranties.... if you were to go cheap, thats the way
id replace the manfiold
then all you need is a tune, injectors and a fuel pump
be careful, get a good tune. Just remember, buy cheap, buy twice.
But, when you buy it the 2nd time, at least use something trusted.
#9
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Re: (924doorEG)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 924doorEG »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah im really thinking about getting a ebay turbo kit and boosting an ls i think it would be hella sick ebay or not lol</TD></TR></TABLE>
Or not, when the turbo seizes and the manifold cracks. Or you end up paying more for the management and tune and the like than you would if you pieced together your own kit or bought a real one.
Or not, when the turbo seizes and the manifold cracks. Or you end up paying more for the management and tune and the like than you would if you pieced together your own kit or bought a real one.
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the turbos come with a 6 month, and the mani comes with a 1 year, thats enough time to get money for a better kit...
The piping isnt bad, or the intercooler, or WG/BOV
so youd want a new mani, new turbo, eventually.
The piping isnt bad, or the intercooler, or WG/BOV
so youd want a new mani, new turbo, eventually.
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Re: (Kelb)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kelb »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the turbos come with a 6 month, and the mani comes with a 1 year, thats enough time to get money for a better kit...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Why deal with the BS of dealing with the warranty of a shitty company? Do it right from the get go.
If you can't afford to play, then don't.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Why deal with the BS of dealing with the warranty of a shitty company? Do it right from the get go.
If you can't afford to play, then don't.
#13
We need 2 vital pieces of information
1. What is your total budget for all parts (including motor), and possibly labor
2. What horsepower number are you looking to hit.
Also, please excuse my ignorance, but what engine do you have in the car now?
1. What is your total budget for all parts (including motor), and possibly labor
2. What horsepower number are you looking to hit.
Also, please excuse my ignorance, but what engine do you have in the car now?
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