PNK SLP

Ok so about 2 months ago i got a new TPS sensor intalled and a few days ago my check engine light came on. I saw that my red signal wire was broke in half, so i cut and ran new wires to the clip. now two days alter its still throwing a TPS code. But if when im driving(car is moving) and just turn the car off and restart it the check engine is gone but will re appear if i park the car and come back to it later, or just comes on when driving again.

any ideas? bad wiring still..the clip is bad..or just a bad TPS again?? i have been working on this issue for like 2 months and its very annoying.

thanks

Nick_p

hmmm if everything is ok with the cable i think that the problem is with your tps.... if a friend of you have one test it there...80% you have the same problem.

PNK SLP

you think the new tps is bad ?

Nick_p

if you bought used maybe yes....if is new...it is very dificult...

give it a chance to another car if you have

Nichelson_Performance

I'm willing to bet you still have a problem with the wiring
Did you solder the wires or use shrink seal connectors? It makes a difference in resistance (ohms) and voltage which the ecu may read incorrect....I make it a must to solder all of my wires. Also check the terminals in the plug, honda uses the tiny spade connectors on all sensors and they tend to melt or corrode over time
It is however possible you got a bad tps sensor even being new, with mostly everything being made overseas or in mexico you can throw the word quality out the window...not much of anything is made in the usa anymore and japanese and german quality parts are expensive but good

PNK SLP

i soldered all the wires together and wrapped them in elec-tape. its just stumping me on what it can be. I did crack the clip open and soldered the red wire inside the clip so idk if that could be it but i dont think its the tps cause before when the wiring was good everything was 100%.

Nichelson_Performance

Then wiring is most likely your problem, how exactly did you crack the clip open and solder the red wire......that's probably your problem man

PNK SLP

just opened it up lol pretty much with a scew driver, and i just solderd the wire to the tiny spade connector

PNK SLP

ok so i just got done recalibrating my tps and i got it as close to .5 on closed thottle and 4.5 on WOT. check engine light is gone and i now can hit vtec ...i missed that sound so much lol , but it still is stalling out on me when i throw the clutch in for nutruel and my idle surges from like 500 to around 1500rpms. Anyone know what might be doing that????

hoffmanb16

Dirty Ivac maybe

PNK SLP

does anyone know what the volts running through each of the wires should be?

i took off my tps to install a different one to see if that would help. after intstalling the old one and new one again after both WONT read higher then .002 volts on closed and 2.99 or 3.00 on WOT. would anyone have any idea why when i spin the TPS the volts wont go up anymore?

delsolproblems

Check the voltage of the reference wire. It should be about 5v. The TPS signal voltage is a percentage of its input (reference) voltage. The TPS can't put out a signal that is greater than its reference voltage. Since WOT reads 3v, your reference wire should read about the same. If the reference reads the correct 5v, you remove the TPS and make sure that the little plastic TPS arm fits properly into the little metal slot in the TB. Check the negative wire for continuity with the battery negative also. If the TPS is installed correctly, the reference voltage is 5v, the ground is solid and the signal is only 3v at WOT then the sensor itself is bad, even if it's new. The TPS wires must be tested with the engine off and the key in the ON position. Good luck.

PNK SLP

thanks for this info. I have checked the wires them self and the signal and the i believe the ground are both only pushing out .002 volts on closed. I will check on the things you have stated..

thanks for the help

PNK SLP

on a side note my car now idles at 1500-2000 rpms...i dont know if thats from installing the tps and not calibrating it

casey69z

If it is now idling 1500-2000 rpms it could be because your TPS is off and the computer thinks the throttle is pressed slightly. Make sure the throttle close voltage is .45v.

Any updates ? How's it doing?

DC2-ProdUcTiOnS

iTrader: (2)

going through the SAME exact problem with my car before....

i had a brand new TPS from Inline4...they said its under 5 year warranty so i have to pull it off again and put a voltmeter on the prongs....if its not giving a constant reading, then the TPs is bad....