MadVladCivic

Hi guys,
Have not posted in a long while. I am getting ready to do a timing belt replacement
on a 96 Civic DX auto trans. I have a Milwaukee 2763 1/2in cordless impact which
claims 1100 ft-lb nut-busting torque. I saw EricTheCarGuy zap a crank pulley bolt off
using this beast in about 3sec: (about 6:00 mark).

Questions are two:
1) Assuming the situation in the above ETCG vid is typical, is the crank pulley bolt on most/all of
these 96-99 Civics compatible with the 17mm socket? I have read/watched vids re the crank pulley bolt
requiring a 19mm socket is also present. According to Majestic Honda, the bolt in question is
an M14, which USUALLY takes a 19mm socket. I was planning to couple the Milwaukee beast
above w/ the appropriate Lisle harmonic balancer socket (17mm: LIS77060; 19mm: LIS77080).

2) Assuming fitment is possible, is there any advantage to using the above rig (impact wrench + heavier mass socket)
with the Honda pulley holder socket (https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tool...ool/420315_0)?
The 19mm Lisle socket will not fit thru the hole in the 50mm holder socket. Not sure about the 17mm. But, assuming
the 17mm will fit, is there any advantage to buying both sockets for use w/ the above beast impact?
Is it overkill? Does it guarantee successful removal of the crank pulley bolt?

Thanks.

NVturbo

It's a 17mm head from what I recall. Once the crank pulley bolt is removed, you can wiggle the pulley out without any tools. DO NOT lose the woodruff key.

tony_2018

17mm

09chaplak

I remember when I first did this I had no idea there was a woodruff key and put the pulley back on just by trying to line it up as best I could. I was like this is so stupid, why wouldn't they have a spline or something to hold it in place?! It worked for a year until I found out there was a key. So not the worst case if you lose it but still, don't lose it.

TomCat39

I cannot agree with this statement. Granted the pulley only operates the alternator (ac condenser if AC) and power steering if present, but the slippage on the crank snout is unnecessary excessive wear of metal on metal contact.

I understand the tension of the bolt helps hold the pulley in check with the crank but only the key prevents any additional rotation. It's that additional rotation that is causing metal on metal wear.

DaX

iTrader: (1)

On some Honda engines the timing belt gear is held on by the same woodruff key as the crank pulley - a good habit to not lose it.

To answer your question OP, I'm pretty sure all D-series engines use a 17 mm crank pulley bolt. I have both the 17 and 19 mm Lisle sockets, and I use the 17 mm on D-series and the 19 mm on F-series (Accord). I also have a crank pulley tool that has a breaker bar attachment and both B-series (hex) and D-series (no hex) attachments. The 19 mm Lisle isn't going through either. The 17 mm Lisle isn't going through the no-hex attachment, and it only goes partially into the hex attachment, but it won't go all the way through. I use an air impact, not an electric, and if using an impact I've not had to worry about holding the pulley still, as the hits are so quick that you're not turning the crankshaft very much at all before it spins the bolt off. I prefer to use the pulley holding tool and a breaker bar, as an impact can beat up the bolt, but if I can't get it in the first couple of tries, I'm pulling out the impact and Lisle sockets.

Let me know if you want pictures of how my stuff fits / doesn't fit.

White_EG1