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Testing/Replacing ECT Switch...

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Old 12-23-2010, 11:46 AM
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Default Testing/Replacing ECT Switch...

Ok so my 2000 Civic LX has been getting HOT the last few weeks..
Couple weeks ago figured out the radiator cooling fan isnt running so weve been driving around with the heater on full blast all the time..

After doing some searching, I let it warm up and idle yesterday and checked the upper and lower radiator hoses.. The upper one was hot as hell and the lower one stayed just as cool as the air.. Ok so thermostat isnt opening I take it.. One problem diagnosed..

My buddy who replaced my engine for me last month told me I probably also need to replace the ECT switch as when one fails the other usually does..
So before I go and drop $50 on a thermostat, gasket, and new ect switch, Id like to test the ECT switch first and possibly save $25 of that money if the switch is still good (hey times are tough!)...

Ive finally located everything under the hood, now I just need the simplest question answered... How the heck do I get that plastic cap with the wires off of the switch?? I could get it if I pulled the whole thermostat housing or the switch itself out, but Im not ready to sit here all day and drain my radiator, jump the switch, refill the radiator, go to Auto Zone, drain the radiator again, etc, etc.... Is there some trick to getting that little gray plastic cap off?? I was trying to pull it with some pliers earlier but I dont want to destroy it and I also dont want to accidentally unscrew the switch either and spray coolant everywhere..


Oh and one last thing.. Once I get the cap off which part do I jumper with a paperclip to make the fan turn on??? Do I jumper the wires in the cap that comes off the switch or do I stick the paperclip in the switch itself and jumper those two prongs there???
Old 12-23-2010, 05:05 PM
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Default Re: Testing/Replacing ECT Switch...

I would not be concerned about the fan switch until you replace the thermostat and then bleed the cooling system. When done, you may find that the fan works fine.

Bleeding may take 20-30 minutes:

1) Park the car on an inclined driveway with the front end higher than the rear.

2) Push the dash heater lever/**** to MAX heat.

3) Follow the directions in the diagram below


Old 12-23-2010, 07:09 PM
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Default Re: Testing/Replacing ECT Switch...

ECT switch as when one fails the other usually does..
not true! problem is that if the t-stat is not opening which seems to be your problem, then their is no way for the rad fan switch to sense that the engine is overheating (sense it sits behind the t-stat) so it wont kick the fan on.
wires in the cap that comes off the switch
this is what you want to do. this does not test the switch this actually tests the whole fan system. you should be able to disconnect it with your hands just press down on the release and pull it off.
Old 12-24-2010, 10:24 AM
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Default Re: Testing/Replacing ECT Switch...

Awesome thanks for the replies!
I was hoping that the thermostat being stuck might be the reason the ECT switch wasnt tripping..
I bought one anyways just in case so good thing I held onto the receipt!

Finally figured out there was a tab on that stupid cap and got it off, jumpered the fan, it works fine but doesnt do alot for cooling since the coolant nots moving around..

Just got home about an hour ago so gonna give it another 30 minutes to cool down and then drain that sucker, replace the thermostat, bleed it, and hopefully my feet wont melt anymore when I drive around for more than 20 minutes haha!!

Hope its not too tough.. I can take care of VW's just fine but man these sideways electronic engine thingys really throw me for a loop!
Old 12-24-2010, 04:58 PM
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Default Re: Testing/Replacing ECT Switch...

Thanks again everybody the thermostat did the trick..
Now monday I can go get $20 back and return the ECT Switch I didnt even bother opening up..

After replacing everything and refilling the radiator, after about 20 minutes of idleing/bleeding the coolant it was still not coming on, and once again the top hose was hot as hell and the bottom hose was the regular air temp..
Shut the engine off, checked the coolant level and topped off the radiator again, let it bleed for another 5 minutes and bam all of a sudden from inside the car I could hear my fan turn on again..

After that jumped on the freeway, ran about 20 miles to the mrs. work doing about 85 (hey I live near Palm Springs, our speed limit is 75 round here hehe) and the temp did not budge over halfway...
FINALLY!!! Shouldve just did a bit more searching here like 3 weeks ago when it started hahaha.

Another good note.. About two weeks after replacing my engine, my check engine light came on.. It always had a funny mind of its own and came on and off before so I didnt pay any attention (Im 2 hours from my buddy whos got the diagnostic comp in his garage).. Minute I replaced the thermostat, my lights off and all is back to normal for now..

So yeah kiddies, when that light comes on get it checked haha!

Thanks again you guys for the tips, wasnt actually so bad after all. Bout an hour and I was done and warming up the car again..
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