gremlin82

Hi guys

you all have been extremely helpful in helping me figure out the TB/WP change in this thread and this was very much appreciated. https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/1998-honda-civic-lx-timing-belt-change-%24-quote-reasonable-3197948/ .since the thread is closed, i decide to open up another thread for some follow-up questions. looking fwd to some advice again.

as a background, my 1998 Honda Civic LX car last change TB/WP when it is at 95K miles in late year 2005 by the previous owner. then it got sold to me in Jan 2006 and i am the second owner. now in year 2014, it is at 140K miles but due for change since 7-8 yrs has relapsed even though my driving mileage is relatively low. i do plan to keep the car for the foreseeable future

my car now has a side problem: there is oil leak from the front seal and rear main seal - but i was told it is minor at this point.

My questions:

1) my plan is to go ahead and have front cam/crank seal replaced while i do TB/WP change in the next few weeks (since mechanic will be working in that engine area afterall) - get it fixed in one go. but question here is, should i or do i also need to go ahead and replace the rear cam seal? or can i safely get by the next few years by not having that replaced, but only replacing the front seal?

2) reason for question #1 is because i understand replacing real seal involves a completely different or extra set of work since this requires pulling out the transmission, and hence presumably extra $$. what should i expect to pay for this extra cost of work - both labor and parts? need a ballpark figure here

3) back to the TB/WP question. there is a "basic" package i was offered at a supposedly reputable independent car shop where they use original honda parts and are quoting me $500 for the following work TB + WP + antifreeze.

but i can do the following "extras" with the associated cost if i wish to
- front cam/crank seal $50-60 [probably will go ahead to do it]
- rear cam seal [question 1 and 2 relates to this]
- tensioner/tension bearing spring $60
- driving belts (PS/AC/ALT) $30
- valve adjustment $47

should i go ahead and just get it all done for 'posterity' sake - since i intend to use the car for the next 2-3 years at the very least? the car shop mechanic/owner seems to think some of the "extras" i listed above is actually not very necessary. but i would like your thoughts in view of the fact that i still plan to keep the car for a while. additionally, plan to use the car extensively for upcoming spring/summer road-tripping this year.
in short, is there anything above that you consider truly optional or would you lean more towards highly recommended for getting them done?

thank you in advance again everyone.

HondaPartsHero

Is your car manual or automatic? If its manual just wait until you need to replace the clutch and have it done then. If its auto its your call but it will be a substantial amount of money for labor as the trans has to come off. How much are parts for the WP/TB, belts, seals?

sleeper98gsr

When I do a belt change, I go for broke. I do anything and everything in the area, and that includes new cam seal, crank seal, valve cover gasket with tube seals, lash adjustment if needed, tensioner, rollers, etc. It's cheap insurance. I work as an independent mechanic, and I won't do a belt at my shop unless all components are touched. This way the belt system will go the full interval without hiccups,

gremlin82

it is a AUTO transmission car, so i guess will not be changing any clutch soon

Q: How much are parts for the WP/TB, belts, seals?
i didnt get the breakdown, since WP+TB is already part of basic package. as for the price for belts and seals, they are stated above. i better double check those prices already include parts + labor

ok. noted abt getting some "extras" like front cam + crank seal, tensioner/spring, driving belts etc changed then.

tony_2018

I don't think you have a rear cam seal, unless you mean the distributor o-ring and yes you might as well do it. The tensioner is always a replacement when replacing the timing belt, no questions about it. Make sure you get a new tensioner spring as well. The front cam and crank seals are easy but please be gentle when prying them off or else you risk putting a dent where you will end up having leaks later. Also oem parts are highly recommended for better fitment.