Symptoms of a shot inner/outer tie rod? Need suggestions
11-16-2005, 09:24 AM
#1
Symptoms of a shot inner/outer tie rod? Need suggestions
Car: 95 civic DX coupe - jdm b18c
Alright, recently i was in a wreck in my ej2 coupe and i was forced up onto a barrier and in the process of this happening it mangled my driver side axle and busted the boot,etc. I had the car towed home and i just recently fixed my axle and i finally got a chance to take her out for a test drive.. While driving the steering wheel shakes pretty bad up in the higher mph around 50+ mpg, but anything below that it doesn't feel as bad, but it still feels bad.. When slowing down or approaching a stop sign it feels like i'm hitting a bump constantly and i hear like a pow* pow* metal on metal type or deal..
So i check out all the ball joints, upper & lower and all of them seem fine, but i did stumble across something that looks exactly like this:
it's not my pic i found it searching, but as pictured that boot looks fine, but mine is all cut and busted and grease out of it.
As pictured that is the outer tie rod? Also i know these are suppossed to move left and right, but not have any ''play'' in them and also the boot is fucked..
Could this be the syptoms to my problems and Is it just possible to replace the ball joint/rubber boot thats on there.. Can anyone get me a part number?
Someone help me out on something i've never fucked with!
Alright, recently i was in a wreck in my ej2 coupe and i was forced up onto a barrier and in the process of this happening it mangled my driver side axle and busted the boot,etc. I had the car towed home and i just recently fixed my axle and i finally got a chance to take her out for a test drive.. While driving the steering wheel shakes pretty bad up in the higher mph around 50+ mpg, but anything below that it doesn't feel as bad, but it still feels bad.. When slowing down or approaching a stop sign it feels like i'm hitting a bump constantly and i hear like a pow* pow* metal on metal type or deal..
So i check out all the ball joints, upper & lower and all of them seem fine, but i did stumble across something that looks exactly like this:
it's not my pic i found it searching, but as pictured that boot looks fine, but mine is all cut and busted and grease out of it.As pictured that is the outer tie rod? Also i know these are suppossed to move left and right, but not have any ''play'' in them and also the boot is fucked..
Could this be the syptoms to my problems and Is it just possible to replace the ball joint/rubber boot thats on there.. Can anyone get me a part number?
Someone help me out on something i've never fucked with!
11-16-2005, 10:26 AM
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Did you get the car aligned? I've never had a car act like that with a bad tie-rod. I suppose it's possible that you would have some vibration but a metal-metal sound makes me think you bent something else. Remember, it's not always obvious when you expletive suspension components up.
11-16-2005, 10:37 AM
#7
Re: (TheThiefTheKnife'NTheGun)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheThiefTheKnife’NTheGun »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">are you having any trouble with abs..The bumping feeling I have felt before and it was a ABS problem.. </TD></TR></TABLE>
This car doesn't have ABS.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dave421 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you get the car aligned? I've never had a car act like that with a bad tie-rod. I suppose it's possible that you would have some vibration but a metal-metal sound makes me think you bent something else. Remember, it's not always obvious when you expletive suspension components up.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Car hasn't recently been aligned and it doesn't pull to the left or to the right.. suspension doesn't seem to be bent.. I just know that the tie rod boot/ball joint.. whatever you call it is busted.. and the steering wheel shakes up in the MPH.. also the tie rods seem to be really loose and move very easy..
When it comes to suspension though i'm completely lost!
This car doesn't have ABS.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dave421 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you get the car aligned? I've never had a car act like that with a bad tie-rod. I suppose it's possible that you would have some vibration but a metal-metal sound makes me think you bent something else. Remember, it's not always obvious when you expletive suspension components up.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Car hasn't recently been aligned and it doesn't pull to the left or to the right.. suspension doesn't seem to be bent.. I just know that the tie rod boot/ball joint.. whatever you call it is busted.. and the steering wheel shakes up in the MPH.. also the tie rods seem to be really loose and move very easy..
When it comes to suspension though i'm completely lost!
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11-16-2005, 10:56 AM
#8
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Re: (Jimmy)
Jack the car up and spin the wheel, sounds like you have a bent wheel rubbing on the caliper or another suspension part. You could put the front end up on jack stands and run the car in 1st or drive and then be able to see what's rubbing or making noise.
11-16-2005, 11:09 AM
#10
Re: (bjr)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bjr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Jack the car up and spin the wheel, sounds like you have a bent wheel rubbing on the caliper or another suspension part. You could put the front end up on jack stands and run the car in 1st or drive and then be able to see what's rubbing or making noise.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm going to go downstairs right now and start the car up and drive it through 1st and 2nd gear.. it's on jackstands right now..
also the car isn't aligned and it hasn't been aligned after the accident.
All of the suspension looks and seems to be fine though, and the ball joints.
I'm going to go downstairs right now and start the car up and drive it through 1st and 2nd gear.. it's on jackstands right now..
also the car isn't aligned and it hasn't been aligned after the accident.
All of the suspension looks and seems to be fine though, and the ball joints.
11-16-2005, 11:11 AM
#11
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Re: (Dave421)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jimmy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I just know that the tie rod boot/ball joint.. whatever you call it is busted..
</TD></TR></TABLE>
If the tie rod ball joint boot is busted and leaking grease it needs to be replaced whether it is your problem now or not, because if it's not already a problem it will certainly become one.
New tie rods are about $30 a side from NAPA for their good ones. I just replaced mine about 3 weeks ago, and it's very simple.
I'll give you a quick run down of how to do it, but 94eg! has a thread on here with a few pictures and instructions on how to replace them.
1. Remove wheel, obviously
2. Loosen the jam nut on the steering rack just behind the tie rod. Do this by using a 19mm wrench and a rubber mallet. I found this easiest.
3. Once the nut is loosened, thread it by hand back towards the tie rod end until it just barely touches.
4. Remove the cotter pin and 14mm nut holding the outer tie rod to the knuckle/wheel assembly.
5. Remove outer tie rod bolt from knuckly assembly. This can be done by just hitting the bolt upwards with a hammer since you won't be using the tie rod end again, you don't have to worry about messing up the threads.
6. Spin the tie rod off while holding the steering rack. Be careful not to spin the jam nut as this will tell you how far to screw the tie rod end back on.
7. Screw tie rod on in same manner you removed the old one. Again, don't move the jam not or spin the steering rack. Spin the tie rod until it touches the jam nut.
8. Tighten the jam nut to the tie rod again.
9. Replace tie rod bolt back in knuckle assembly.
10. Thread on new 14mm nut, tighten, and insert new cotter pin.
11. Get an alignment so your toe can be readjusted.
If you have any questions let me know.
I just know that the tie rod boot/ball joint.. whatever you call it is busted..
</TD></TR></TABLE>
If the tie rod ball joint boot is busted and leaking grease it needs to be replaced whether it is your problem now or not, because if it's not already a problem it will certainly become one.
New tie rods are about $30 a side from NAPA for their good ones. I just replaced mine about 3 weeks ago, and it's very simple.
I'll give you a quick run down of how to do it, but 94eg! has a thread on here with a few pictures and instructions on how to replace them.
1. Remove wheel, obviously
2. Loosen the jam nut on the steering rack just behind the tie rod. Do this by using a 19mm wrench and a rubber mallet. I found this easiest.
3. Once the nut is loosened, thread it by hand back towards the tie rod end until it just barely touches.
4. Remove the cotter pin and 14mm nut holding the outer tie rod to the knuckle/wheel assembly.
5. Remove outer tie rod bolt from knuckly assembly. This can be done by just hitting the bolt upwards with a hammer since you won't be using the tie rod end again, you don't have to worry about messing up the threads.
6. Spin the tie rod off while holding the steering rack. Be careful not to spin the jam nut as this will tell you how far to screw the tie rod end back on.
7. Screw tie rod on in same manner you removed the old one. Again, don't move the jam not or spin the steering rack. Spin the tie rod until it touches the jam nut.
8. Tighten the jam nut to the tie rod again.
9. Replace tie rod bolt back in knuckle assembly.
10. Thread on new 14mm nut, tighten, and insert new cotter pin.
11. Get an alignment so your toe can be readjusted.
If you have any questions let me know.
11-16-2005, 11:14 AM
#12
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Re: (Jimmy)
When mine went bad, if you pull out on the front-facing part of the wheel/tire and push on the rear-facing part (or vice-versa), there was play in the wheel/tire. I don't know if this makes sense, but that's what I was experiencing.
-Shane
-Shane
11-16-2005, 11:20 AM
#13
Re: (******)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ****** »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If the tie rod ball joint boot is busted and leaking grease it needs to be replaced whether it is your problem now or not, because if it's not already a problem it will certainly become one.
New tie rods are about $30 a side from NAPA for their good ones. I just replaced mine about 3 weeks ago, and it's very simple.
I'll give you a quick run down of how to do it, but 94eg! has a thread on here with a few pictures and instructions on how to replace them.
1. Remove wheel, obviously
2. Loosen the jam nut on the steering rack just behind the tie rod. Do this by using a 19mm wrench and a rubber mallet. I found this easiest.
3. Once the nut is loosened, thread it by hand back towards the tie rod end until it just barely touches.
4. Remove the cotter pin and 14mm nut holding the outer tie rod to the knuckle/wheel assembly.
5. Remove outer tie rod bolt from knuckly assembly. This can be done by just hitting the bolt upwards with a hammer since you won't be using the tie rod end again, you don't have to worry about messing up the threads.
6. Spin the tie rod off while holding the steering rack. Be careful not to spin the jam nut as this will tell you how far to screw the tie rod end back on.
7. Screw tie rod on in same manner you removed the old one. Again, don't move the jam not or spin the steering rack. Spin the tie rod until it touches the jam nut.
8. Tighten the jam nut to the tie rod again.
9. Replace tie rod bolt back in knuckle assembly.
10. Thread on new 14mm nut, tighten, and insert new cotter pin.
11. Get an alignment so your toe can be readjusted.
If you have any questions let me know. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Alright, i appriciate everyones help.. i went downstairs and started the car while it was on jack stands and i hear or feel nothing.. i moved and turned the wheel and i dont see anything hitting.. maybe it's takes weight and moving and hitting bumps for it to happen... do you guys think it could be a busted strut??? I have omnipowers, but still hitting a barrier at 70mph.. i dont think anything could hold
If the tie rod ball joint boot is busted and leaking grease it needs to be replaced whether it is your problem now or not, because if it's not already a problem it will certainly become one.
New tie rods are about $30 a side from NAPA for their good ones. I just replaced mine about 3 weeks ago, and it's very simple.
I'll give you a quick run down of how to do it, but 94eg! has a thread on here with a few pictures and instructions on how to replace them.
1. Remove wheel, obviously
2. Loosen the jam nut on the steering rack just behind the tie rod. Do this by using a 19mm wrench and a rubber mallet. I found this easiest.
3. Once the nut is loosened, thread it by hand back towards the tie rod end until it just barely touches.
4. Remove the cotter pin and 14mm nut holding the outer tie rod to the knuckle/wheel assembly.
5. Remove outer tie rod bolt from knuckly assembly. This can be done by just hitting the bolt upwards with a hammer since you won't be using the tie rod end again, you don't have to worry about messing up the threads.
6. Spin the tie rod off while holding the steering rack. Be careful not to spin the jam nut as this will tell you how far to screw the tie rod end back on.
7. Screw tie rod on in same manner you removed the old one. Again, don't move the jam not or spin the steering rack. Spin the tie rod until it touches the jam nut.
8. Tighten the jam nut to the tie rod again.
9. Replace tie rod bolt back in knuckle assembly.
10. Thread on new 14mm nut, tighten, and insert new cotter pin.
11. Get an alignment so your toe can be readjusted.
If you have any questions let me know.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Alright, i appriciate everyones help.. i went downstairs and started the car while it was on jack stands and i hear or feel nothing.. i moved and turned the wheel and i dont see anything hitting.. maybe it's takes weight and moving and hitting bumps for it to happen... do you guys think it could be a busted strut??? I have omnipowers, but still hitting a barrier at 70mph.. i dont think anything could hold
11-16-2005, 02:14 PM
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are your tires warped? this can certainly cause high speed shakyness i had it a few months ago.
however you should jack the wheel up and grab your wheel at 3 and 9 o'clock and shake it violently to see if there is any play. try this at 6 and 12 o'clock as well. if you have any play, i'd recommend getting it checked out by a trusted mechanic. and get it looked at by at least two different places so they don't rip u off on telling u extra **** is broke.
however you should jack the wheel up and grab your wheel at 3 and 9 o'clock and shake it violently to see if there is any play. try this at 6 and 12 o'clock as well. if you have any play, i'd recommend getting it checked out by a trusted mechanic. and get it looked at by at least two different places so they don't rip u off on telling u extra **** is broke.
11-17-2005, 06:07 AM
#16
Re: (dogbiscuit)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dogbiscuit »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">are your tires warped? this can certainly cause high speed shakyness i had it a few months ago.
however you should jack the wheel up and grab your wheel at 3 and 9 o'clock and shake it violently to see if there is any play. try this at 6 and 12 o'clock as well. if you have any play, i'd recommend getting it checked out by a trusted mechanic. and get it looked at by at least two different places so they don't rip u off on telling u extra **** is broke.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yea actually they are, i took a closer look and around the lip the tire is curbed.. would even the slightest amount of being curbed cause this? I'm taking it to an alignment shop to get everything else looked at today..
Thanks everyone
however you should jack the wheel up and grab your wheel at 3 and 9 o'clock and shake it violently to see if there is any play. try this at 6 and 12 o'clock as well. if you have any play, i'd recommend getting it checked out by a trusted mechanic. and get it looked at by at least two different places so they don't rip u off on telling u extra **** is broke.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yea actually they are, i took a closer look and around the lip the tire is curbed.. would even the slightest amount of being curbed cause this? I'm taking it to an alignment shop to get everything else looked at today..
Thanks everyone
11-17-2005, 06:35 AM
#17
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Re: (Jimmy)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jimmy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Yea actually they are, i took a closer look and around the lip the tire is curbed.. would even the slightest amount of being curbed cause this? </TD></TR></TABLE>
the vibration, yes. the metal on metal sound, no.
Yea actually they are, i took a closer look and around the lip the tire is curbed.. would even the slightest amount of being curbed cause this? </TD></TR></TABLE>
the vibration, yes. the metal on metal sound, no.
11-17-2005, 10:54 AM
#18
Alright i took the coupe to a reputable shop..
I failed to see that my tires have
tremendous flat spots causing the vibration/shaking.. Also the right outer tie rod needs to be replaced and my upper ball joints on both sides ''they reccomend replacing''
Now my question:
When replacing the upper ball joints.. Is a press a must to get these ball joints in/out?
&
Where is the best place online to get some azenis?
thanks h-t
I failed to see that my tires have
tremendous flat spots causing the vibration/shaking.. Also the right outer tie rod needs to be replaced and my upper ball joints on both sides ''they reccomend replacing''
Now my question:
When replacing the upper ball joints.. Is a press a must to get these ball joints in/out?
&
Where is the best place online to get some azenis?
thanks h-t
11-17-2005, 11:12 AM
#19
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Re: (Jimmy)
You said this was a '95 right? I can't say for 100% on the 92-95 suspension, but I know on my 99 hatch, and all 96-00's for that matter, you cannot replace just the upper ball joint. You have to replace the entire upper control arm. I just found some cheap used ones with low miles on them from someone on here for about $30. I think they're around $150 from the dealer.
11-17-2005, 11:16 AM
#20
Re: (******)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ****** »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You said this was a '95 right? I can't say for 100% on the 92-95 suspension, but I know on my 99 hatch, and all 96-00's for that matter, you cannot replace just the upper ball joint. You have to replace the entire upper control arm. I just found some cheap used ones with low miles on them from someone on here for about $30. I think they're around $150 from the dealer.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I just called and got a quote on a price from advanced and they're $54.99 for the whole assembly, so yes your correct..
thanks for all of your alls help!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I just called and got a quote on a price from advanced and they're $54.99 for the whole assembly, so yes your correct..
thanks for all of your alls help!
11-17-2005, 04:01 PM
#21
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yeah if you tires are warped that will cause heavy shaking, if you don't believe me rotate your tires and it will be night and day, "that is if your rear's aren't warped"
when i bought this car the tires were crap and it drove like **** at higher speeds, i had the owner rotate the tires and let me re-test drive and the difference was amazing leading me to believe it was only the tires.
when i bought this car the tires were crap and it drove like **** at higher speeds, i had the owner rotate the tires and let me re-test drive and the difference was amazing leading me to believe it was only the tires.
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