Swap won't start!
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Swap won't start!
Tried starting my b16a2 today, but wouldn't run... Starter goes, got sparks and the fuelpump is running, but the injectors are not firing. Only CEL is oxygen sensor heater or whatever it's called.. Shouldn't be the cause of the car not starting anyways.
When this happened, I was using my original key, so I though maybe it was the immobilizer (even though the light wasn't blinking or anything)... So I tried fooling it by removing the immobilizer thing, and holding it next to the correct key for that engine... Then I got no starter engine, and the immobilizer light started blinking.. Anyone know exactly what the immobilizer cuts out?
Thanks
Erik
Modified by eriknn at 1:56 PM 1/8/2007
When this happened, I was using my original key, so I though maybe it was the immobilizer (even though the light wasn't blinking or anything)... So I tried fooling it by removing the immobilizer thing, and holding it next to the correct key for that engine... Then I got no starter engine, and the immobilizer light started blinking.. Anyone know exactly what the immobilizer cuts out?
Thanks
Erik
Modified by eriknn at 1:56 PM 1/8/2007
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Re: Swap won't start! (NScivic)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NScivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">take pictures of the timing</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm getting great sparks and everything, that's not the problem
I'm getting great sparks and everything, that's not the problem
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Re: Swap won't start! (eriknn)
there is a plug on the ecu harness driver side that has a cap on it make sure that cap is on if it is not the injectors will not fire
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Re: Swap won't start! (onefastx)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by onefastx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">there is a plug on the ecu harness driver side that has a cap on it make sure that cap is on if it is not the injectors will not fire </TD></TR></TABLE>
I have only replaced the harness that is on the engine.. One part of this goes into the left side of the engine compartment, to the under dash fusebox.. Is that the one you are thinking of? Got any more info on this plug/cap?
I have only replaced the harness that is on the engine.. One part of this goes into the left side of the engine compartment, to the under dash fusebox.. Is that the one you are thinking of? Got any more info on this plug/cap?
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Re: Swap won't start! (eriknn)
its on the engine harness i had the same problem doing my b16 swap im almost positive every wire is either white with black stripe ir yellow with a black stripe its in the engine bay driver side
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Re: Swap won't start! (eriknn)
the plug is for the injector 12v if the cap isnt installed they dont get voltage so the ground pulses wont do anything i didnt realize mine was missing until i traced the whole system so i hope this is your issue so you dont got to go through the same bs i did.
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Re: Swap won't start! (onefastx)
Hehe, thanks alot for your help.. If that's the error, you'll have saved me a huge amount of frustration.. Can't wait to check it out now
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Re: Swap won't start! (onefastx)
wow you're getting spark.
so what
if its sparking at the wrong time the motor will not fire. check your cam and crank timing.
also you may want to do a valve adjustment to make sure your getting full compression.
so what
if its sparking at the wrong time the motor will not fire. check your cam and crank timing.
also you may want to do a valve adjustment to make sure your getting full compression.
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Re: Swap won't start! (NScivic)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NScivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wow you're getting spark.
so what
if its sparking at the wrong time the motor will not fire. check your cam and crank timing.
also you may want to do a valve adjustment to make sure your getting full compression.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You can't read can you? The engine is getting ZERO fuel. You know the score you got on your sat, yea 0.
Compression and spark wont mean **** without fuel. If the valve lash was far enough out for the engine not to run then there would DEFINITELY be internal engine damage.
Let the people that know what they are talking about handle this one. Why don't you wait for some one to ask how long their trial membership lasts, then you can post.
I don't know a whole lot about the Honda engines but it is a pretty standard practice for fuel to be triggered be the crank sensor. Normally if there is a crank sensor failure there will be no pressure at the rail either. Have you tried checking fuel pressure?
so what
if its sparking at the wrong time the motor will not fire. check your cam and crank timing.
also you may want to do a valve adjustment to make sure your getting full compression.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You can't read can you? The engine is getting ZERO fuel. You know the score you got on your sat, yea 0.
Compression and spark wont mean **** without fuel. If the valve lash was far enough out for the engine not to run then there would DEFINITELY be internal engine damage.
Let the people that know what they are talking about handle this one. Why don't you wait for some one to ask how long their trial membership lasts, then you can post.
I don't know a whole lot about the Honda engines but it is a pretty standard practice for fuel to be triggered be the crank sensor. Normally if there is a crank sensor failure there will be no pressure at the rail either. Have you tried checking fuel pressure?
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Re: Swap won't start! (JDM-97CX)
Thank for supporting me, was beginning to doubt my skills in the english language there, as I was obciously not being understood I can hear the relay for the fuelpump engaging, can't here the fuelpump though, but I never think I really did... And I've got plenty pressure at the fuelfilter... Spark plugs are dry as a desert though Gonna check out the suggestion mentioned earlier here, obviously the injectors aren't getting 12V or ground.. Looking at the electric schematics, my first though was that the ground was missing (from the ECU), but if there are some funky connectors on the 12V that may well be it
Oh, and BTW, the engine was reported to be running well in the car it comes from.. So any damage other than from shipping seems rather unlikely...
And again BTW: If I wasn't able to set the timing on the engine correct, I don't think I'd be doing an engineswap...
Modified by eriknn at 8:24 PM 1/8/2007
Oh, and BTW, the engine was reported to be running well in the car it comes from.. So any damage other than from shipping seems rather unlikely...
And again BTW: If I wasn't able to set the timing on the engine correct, I don't think I'd be doing an engineswap...
Modified by eriknn at 8:24 PM 1/8/2007
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My injectors got 12V... So it's got to be the ECU not giving out ground.. Checked the plugs on the ECU, and it's got ground where it should... Anyone know what terms has to be fullfilled for the ECU to give out ground to the injectors?
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Re: (eriknn)
i would try spraying some stating fuild in your intake.. see if it will fire.. (don;t use too much just let it rotate the motor a few times)..
if it does turn over it elimiate every problem except fuel.. if it don;t then there more to it then fuel.. is car obd1 or 2?
if it does turn over it elimiate every problem except fuel.. if it don;t then there more to it then fuel.. is car obd1 or 2?