Jon78

Hello everyone!
I just brought home a beater 1994 Civic with a 1.6 VTEC. The Previous owner stripped about eight holes all over this engine. I have delt with all holes other than the head bolt holes thus far. Let me start out by saying that this is a $250 beater with 180k (ish) miles and will never have the current engine upgraded. I have a B series swap in the works, so I just need to get this engine to run without blowing all the coolant out over the course of ten minutes. Hopefully to use it as a highway commuter. I understand the proper way to repair this engine is to pull it, tear it down, and either use inserts/ weld and retap the holes, clean the block, inspect components, and then reassemble it.

With that said... I dont plan on doing any of that. Flame me as much as you want. I am thinking about either installing over-sized bolts or inserts, pulling the oil pan and splash-shield looking piece to allow me to "rinse" out the engine from underneath. Of course I will follow this with a couple oil changes soon after, using a magnetic oil plug that ill reuse on my b20b. I know this is not the right way to do this repair, but i just need a temporary fix. After the swap ill probably part or junk this engine. For now its not worth the money to repair it the right way considering I have a b20b shortblock and a second 'parts shortblock' in my garage and do not own an engine hoist as of now.

Any thoughts? Suggestions? What should i use to "rinse" the internals? I don't want to degrease it and kill the bearings. If I could find a d series in my area for under 250 i would just swap it, but everything is around 400. I'm really leaning toward just using over-sized bolts and a decent head gasket.
As I said... Flame away, I'm expecting it.

-Jon

pogeeboy27

iTrader: (3)

Seriously for the amount of time and effort you would spend to do a band-aid fix is way more hassle than it's worth. Sure it'll run but for how long? If you blow a headgasket while driving you'll be out another $100-$200 for a tow. I say just pony up an extra $150 and buy a used motor.

Jon78

I have certainly had the same thoughts. Luckily I have AAA, haha. But I have been looking for a used engine. They're just so stinking expensive around me. Now this may sound like a noob question (because it is), but can i convert a d17 to use a distributor?

jdblock

Talk to a local machine shop and get an idea for the repair and cost. I think it's about $10 for each stud to put an insert in. Inserts are stronger than stock.

Jimi Hondrix

Wrap two ratcheting straps: https://www.strapworks.com/v/vspfile...tchetwend2.jpg around block and head about a foot apart from each other...LOL..JK

Pull head, re-tap and helicoil. Can use red thread-locker on coils as well. Mine had one stripped block bolt hole and I used 1 and 3/4 (of one) helicoils stacked on top of each other due to the depth of the hole.
The coils are fairly cheap themselves (without tap tool) if ordered online.

Jon78

I'm assuming that price would be for a bare block, correct?

Jon78

i f ratchet straps would work... lol. I have thought about this. I fear that the block may have been helicoiled in these holes already, but I'mm not sure. I guess ill pull it apart to check.

jdblock

They just need the head taken off. If you have tow service you can take the whole car in.

Chance EG

Could you buy a used D16 shortblock?

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

Why not just use a time-sert?


++ TIME-SERT MANUFACTURER KITS - HONDA MOTORS ++ head bolt thread repair, honda head bolt thread repair, acura thread repair kit, honda acura head bolt thread repair kit, head bolt stripped in honda block, stripped engine block threads, threads strip

petr0lb0mb

Great suggestion except that the Time-Sert kit cost $450, hahaha!

Anyway, I'm pretty sure that time-sert installation is exactly what a machine shop would do to fix it. The thing is, it's hard to be sure that you're drilling out the threads squarely to the deck surface. It would be easy to botch this kind of repair.
I have the kit for the motor mount bracket bolts and I used it in my old transmission housing. Despite my best efforts, the bolts were tilting like old power poles on a dirt road in Mexico. Granted, that was in aluminum, but still...

tony_2018

Just "John Diggle" it and you'll be fine.

Jimi Hondrix

OP: I lead you to the water now drink it you SOB! ...lol

petr0lb0mb

I vote this as best answer:

NOTE: Ratcheting straps with a lifetime warranty would be best for this purpose.