Smog Ref: BAR Certified 07/13/05 (jdm b18c)
07-13-2005, 01:07 PM
#1
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Smog Ref: BAR Certified 07/13/05 (jdm b18c)
Hey guys,
Just got back from the state referee today to get my motor certified, and i PASSED!
The first ref i went to was at Goldenwest College in Huntington Beach. The ref was very nice and polite, but STRICT. I failed miserably, he gave me a list of things to fix. So i fixed everything to the best of my knowledge. (-$30 for inspection)
The second ref i went to was at Fullerton College in Fullerton. Again, he was very nice and polite. My emissions ran borderline so he was cool enough to run my car a second time to keep the readings in the "green," but he failed me because my breather hose was "too big."
He said, "just replace that with the stock one and i will pass you." So i borrow a breather pipe from my cousins itr and go back and pop the hood. First thing he says is "oooh, your upper radiator hose looks swollen and it looks like its going to fall off... I dont even know how it's staying on there (he yanks at it... well obviously its clamped on right because i clamped it right in the middle of the nipple. Besides its brand new from kragens, that was replaced AFTER the Goldenwest visit but before the retest, due to a broken thermostat)." He goes on to say he does not want to test it for safety reasons. But in my head i was like "You tested it before and you never said anything about it." At this point i decided this ref was an ***. ($0 for retest)
The third ref was recommended to me by user Luserkid, East Los Angeles College (ELAC). So he pops my hood and again, he says "your upper radiator hose looks swollen, it might explode." wtf?!? I was beginning to have doubts about this ref as well. Well, after looking at some engine shots on ht and pming a couple more gsr/civic owners and finally going to the dealership to compare hoses, it turns out Kragen's must have given me the wrong upper radiator hose . So i go back the next day and show up about 15min early, i pop my hood, then one of the techs was like "oops, the coolant lines on your breather pipe are not clamped down." WHAT THE HELL DO YOU WANT FROM ME??? So i ask the tech if there is a pep boys near by and luckily there was one 5min away, so i haul *** to pep boys and bought some hose clamps. I installed them in the parking lot (lines still filled with boiling hot coolant) and haul my *** back with 3 min to spare. Finally, my car is ready for the test. First, they let my car warm up for 15min (AWESOME!) Then as they pull my car up to the rollers, i hear one of the techs go "hey pat! how does she feel?" Then the next thing i hear is my engine reving (great... dicking around with my car Then i hear the ref saying "shes strong!" They run the 15mph test, but stop right away (great, i failed already). Another 15min later they run the 15 and 25mph test and i PASSED! Turns out they spent that miscellaneous 15min to adjust my timing a little bit to lower my emissions because at GW and Fullerton, timing was set at 15. Then when this test was finished, i noticed on my VIR that timing was lowered to 14. After the test i talked to one of the techs about b18's vs h22's for a little bit, then they give me the BAR certification sticker and i was on my merry way. (-$38.25 for inspection and certificate)
It took two months (couldve been less but i was slacking), but I couldn't have done it without the help of all of your helpful articles and topics.
To try to keep this tech related, here are some things ppl trying to BAR jdm gsr's should look out for and some things i learned through this whole process.
1) You need an evap purge control solenoid valve and the connector. If you get your swap done at a shop, sometimes they will use the evap plug from your civic engine and plug it into the IAB's. If they do, u will need to unlplug it and re-route it under your intake manifold towards the passenger side, then plug it into the evap purge control soleniod valve. Then hook up the correspoinding vacuum lines.
You do not need the evap valve to be funcitoning, they only need it for the visual inspection.
2) Make sure your ecu has a sticker on it saying its xxx-p72-a01(a02). I failed the first time because that sticker was missing. If you are trying to purchase a p72 ecu for BAR purposes from another ht-user or ebay etc, ask the other user if it has that sticker on there.
3) Check your timing! Timing greatly effects smog emissions and people often neglect to double check it (as i did).
4) Do not sweat if your motor has no vin#. The only thing on the block they check is the engine code and the year. There is no mention of an engine vin on the BAR certificate, therefore it is not important.
5) Make sure all vacuum lines are hooked up. If you need a vacuum diagram for a gsr, feel free to pm me.
6) Make sure you have the o2 sensor on the header/cat installed. In my case, the o2 sensor is on the header because i am using a header from an LS.
7) If you are using an aftermarket intake, use a black hose for the breather hose. If you are using the stock intake arm, use the stock breather pipe. DO NOT try to mickey mouse a black hose onto the nipple on the stock intake arm like i did
8) Make sure your coolant lines are secured and clamped. Refs will not test your car if they see any reason for coolant to leak out and injure the ref. In my case, my upper radiator hose looked swollen so the ref voided my visit stating "upper radiator hose looks swollen, might explode"!!! Additionally (this is related to #7) if you are using the stock breather pipe, make sure you clamp down the coolant lines on the pipe.
9) The basics. New spark plugs, oil change, run 87 octane, seafoam, and GTP.
-James
"To legit to quit"
Just got back from the state referee today to get my motor certified, and i PASSED!
The first ref i went to was at Goldenwest College in Huntington Beach. The ref was very nice and polite, but STRICT. I failed miserably, he gave me a list of things to fix. So i fixed everything to the best of my knowledge. (-$30 for inspection)
The second ref i went to was at Fullerton College in Fullerton. Again, he was very nice and polite. My emissions ran borderline so he was cool enough to run my car a second time to keep the readings in the "green," but he failed me because my breather hose was "too big."
He said, "just replace that with the stock one and i will pass you." So i borrow a breather pipe from my cousins itr and go back and pop the hood. First thing he says is "oooh, your upper radiator hose looks swollen and it looks like its going to fall off... I dont even know how it's staying on there (he yanks at it... well obviously its clamped on right because i clamped it right in the middle of the nipple. Besides its brand new from kragens, that was replaced AFTER the Goldenwest visit but before the retest, due to a broken thermostat)." He goes on to say he does not want to test it for safety reasons. But in my head i was like "You tested it before and you never said anything about it." At this point i decided this ref was an ***. ($0 for retest)The third ref was recommended to me by user Luserkid, East Los Angeles College (ELAC). So he pops my hood and again, he says "your upper radiator hose looks swollen, it might explode." wtf?!?
I was beginning to have doubts about this ref as well. Well, after looking at some engine shots on ht and pming a couple more gsr/civic owners and finally going to the dealership to compare hoses, it turns out Kragen's must have given me the wrong upper radiator hose . So i go back the next day and show up about 15min early, i pop my hood, then one of the techs was like "oops, the coolant lines on your breather pipe are not clamped down." WHAT THE HELL DO YOU WANT FROM ME??? So i ask the tech if there is a pep boys near by and luckily there was one 5min away, so i haul *** to pep boys and bought some hose clamps. I installed them in the parking lot (lines still filled with boiling hot coolant) and haul my *** back with 3 min to spare. Finally, my car is ready for the test. First, they let my car warm up for 15min (AWESOME!) Then as they pull my car up to the rollers, i hear one of the techs go "hey pat! how does she feel?" Then the next thing i hear is my engine reving (great... dicking around with my car Then i hear the ref saying "shes strong!" They run the 15mph test, but stop right away (great, i failed already). Another 15min later they run the 15 and 25mph test and i PASSED! Turns out they spent that miscellaneous 15min to adjust my timing a little bit to lower my emissions because at GW and Fullerton, timing was set at 15. Then when this test was finished, i noticed on my VIR that timing was lowered to 14. After the test i talked to one of the techs about b18's vs h22's for a little bit, then they give me the BAR certification sticker and i was on my merry way. (-$38.25 for inspection and certificate)It took two months (couldve been less but i was slacking), but I couldn't have done it without the help of all of your helpful articles and topics.
To try to keep this tech related, here are some things ppl trying to BAR jdm gsr's should look out for and some things i learned through this whole process.
1) You need an evap purge control solenoid valve and the connector. If you get your swap done at a shop, sometimes they will use the evap plug from your civic engine and plug it into the IAB's. If they do, u will need to unlplug it and re-route it under your intake manifold towards the passenger side, then plug it into the evap purge control soleniod valve. Then hook up the correspoinding vacuum lines.
You do not need the evap valve to be funcitoning, they only need it for the visual inspection.
2) Make sure your ecu has a sticker on it saying its xxx-p72-a01(a02). I failed the first time because that sticker was missing. If you are trying to purchase a p72 ecu for BAR purposes from another ht-user or ebay etc, ask the other user if it has that sticker on there.
3) Check your timing! Timing greatly effects smog emissions and people often neglect to double check it (as i did).
4) Do not sweat if your motor has no vin#. The only thing on the block they check is the engine code and the year. There is no mention of an engine vin on the BAR certificate, therefore it is not important.
5) Make sure all vacuum lines are hooked up. If you need a vacuum diagram for a gsr, feel free to pm me.
6) Make sure you have the o2 sensor on the header/cat installed. In my case, the o2 sensor is on the header because i am using a header from an LS.
7) If you are using an aftermarket intake, use a black hose for the breather hose. If you are using the stock intake arm, use the stock breather pipe. DO NOT try to mickey mouse a black hose onto the nipple on the stock intake arm like i did
8) Make sure your coolant lines are secured and clamped. Refs will not test your car if they see any reason for coolant to leak out and injure the ref. In my case, my upper radiator hose looked swollen so the ref voided my visit stating "upper radiator hose looks swollen, might explode"!!! Additionally (this is related to #7) if you are using the stock breather pipe, make sure you clamp down the coolant lines on the pipe.
9) The basics. New spark plugs, oil change, run 87 octane, seafoam, and GTP.
-James
"To legit to quit"
07-13-2005, 01:22 PM
#4
TSPeed Factory
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Renton, WA, Vietnam
Posts: 5,298
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: Smog Ref: BAR Certified 07/13/05 (Civic4less)
may god bless the other 49 states that don't have to worry about that crap
good job on passing dude.
good job on passing dude.
07-13-2005, 02:05 PM
#6
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: In a vast field of corn
Posts: 1,385
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: Smog Ref: BAR Certified 07/13/05 (one agentMurdoc HMT yO!)
Nebraska
Cali
Boosted LS, 3" downpipe, 3" exhaust, no cat, Apexi N1 (pipe wrapped in a bigger pipe pretty much if you ask me.) and no one cares, the cops are clueless, and there are no refs to bug me either
Good info though I learn something every day no here.
Cali
Boosted LS, 3" downpipe, 3" exhaust, no cat, Apexi N1 (pipe wrapped in a bigger pipe pretty much if you ask me.) and no one cares, the cops are clueless, and there are no refs to bug me either
Good info though I learn something every day no here.
07-13-2005, 02:35 PM
#7
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: ROLLING PARANOID WITH A SMILE, ca, USA
Posts: 8,203
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Re: Smog Ref: BAR Certified 07/13/05 (Jedi_Sol)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jedi_Sol »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey guys,
4) Do not sweat if your motor has no vin#. The only thing on the block they check is the engine code and the year. There is no mention of an engine vin on the BAR certificate, therefore it is not important.</TD></TR></TABLE>
:EDIT: I JUST REALIZED YOU HAVE AN OBD2 CAR. I THINK
i assume your engine is an odb2? if so how did you get by not installing the data port?
or did you wire it odb1. and if so how did they pass you with an odb2 engine? and obd2 ecu? and what about the receipt? stating what year the engine is?
thanks for any info.
:damn someone needs to due a BAR write up for and odb2 engine in odb1 car
**** i guess i will once i get started :
4) Do not sweat if your motor has no vin#. The only thing on the block they check is the engine code and the year. There is no mention of an engine vin on the BAR certificate, therefore it is not important.</TD></TR></TABLE>
:EDIT: I JUST REALIZED YOU HAVE AN OBD2 CAR. I THINK
i assume your engine is an odb2? if so how did you get by not installing the data port?
or did you wire it odb1. and if so how did they pass you with an odb2 engine? and obd2 ecu? and what about the receipt? stating what year the engine is?
thanks for any info.
:damn someone needs to due a BAR write up for and odb2 engine in odb1 car
**** i guess i will once i get started :
Trending Topics
07-13-2005, 11:09 PM
#10
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: Smog Ref: BAR Certified 07/13/05 (cxSHOE)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cxSHOE »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
:EDIT: I JUST REALIZED YOU HAVE AN OBD2 CAR. I THINK
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sorry, its an obd1 engine in an obd1 car
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cxSHOE »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
what about the receipt? stating what year the engine is?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Now that i think about it, i dont really think the receipt is really that important. I guess it is for them to check if you got it from a legit place or not. My receipt only says "GSR Change over..... parts and labor = $$$." Since the engine is jdm, there is no vin # for them to look at or reference. The only other number on my receipt was my block code (the number below the engine code). Every single ref i went to was knowledgeable enough to know that the year is stamped right in front of the block.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cxSHOE »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
:damn someone needs to due a BAR write up for and odb2 engine in odb1 car **** i guess i will once i get started :</TD></TR></TABLE>
I havent really seen many obd2 swaps in an obd1 car either to pass bar. Maybe you could make a write up for everybody out there. I would suggest going to the ref and be honest with them. Tell them you are trying to put an obd2 engine in an obd1 car and just ask them what you need to pass. Or perhaps just take the first test, pay the $30, then they should give you a listing of things that you are missing needed to pass. Then go back and use your free retest. The refs are not there to be jackasses, they are truly there to help you.
try pming user xSpanksx... we have been in contact about barring our cars, and he is in the same boat with you, obd2/obd1. maybe you guys could work together and figure this out.
Hope that answers your questins.
-james
:EDIT: I JUST REALIZED YOU HAVE AN OBD2 CAR. I THINK
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sorry, its an obd1 engine in an obd1 car
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cxSHOE »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
what about the receipt? stating what year the engine is?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Now that i think about it, i dont really think the receipt is really that important. I guess it is for them to check if you got it from a legit place or not. My receipt only says "GSR Change over..... parts and labor = $$$." Since the engine is jdm, there is no vin # for them to look at or reference. The only other number on my receipt was my block code (the number below the engine code). Every single ref i went to was knowledgeable enough to know that the year is stamped right in front of the block.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cxSHOE »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
:damn someone needs to due a BAR write up for and odb2 engine in odb1 car
**** i guess i will once i get started :</TD></TR></TABLE>I havent really seen many obd2 swaps in an obd1 car either to pass bar. Maybe you could make a write up for everybody out there. I would suggest going to the ref and be honest with them. Tell them you are trying to put an obd2 engine in an obd1 car and just ask them what you need to pass. Or perhaps just take the first test, pay the $30, then they should give you a listing of things that you are missing needed to pass. Then go back and use your free retest. The refs are not there to be jackasses, they are truly there to help you.
try pming user xSpanksx... we have been in contact about barring our cars, and he is in the same boat with you, obd2/obd1. maybe you guys could work together and figure this out.
Hope that answers your questins.
-james
07-13-2005, 11:47 PM
#12
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: Smog Ref: BAR Certified 07/13/05 (ADVAN EG2)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ADVAN EG2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">awesommmmmmmmmmme
i like your rims BTW superlasexxy </TD></TR></TABLE>
ha thanx, i get mixed reactions with those rims. But i had to cut one before the swap. Im rolling on gold rota torques now
-james
ps: ill get pics up eventually
i like your rims BTW superlasexxy
</TD></TR></TABLE>ha thanx, i get mixed reactions with those rims. But i had to cut one before the swap. Im rolling on gold rota torques now
-james
ps: ill get pics up eventually
07-14-2005, 02:12 AM
#13
Honda-Tech Member
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Torrance, CA
Posts: 2,179
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: Smog Ref: BAR Certified 07/13/05 (Jedi_Sol)
Congrats! ...i have a cx hatch 93 .i dont have the vtec solenoid & pressure cabin wireharness because its a cx, my question is will it pass if i have it tapped from engine wireharness and run it straight to the ecu?
07-14-2005, 10:46 AM
#15
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: Smog Ref: BAR Certified 07/13/05 (underb00steg6)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by underb00steg6 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Congrats! ...i have a cx hatch 93 .i dont have the vtec solenoid & pressure cabin wireharness because its a cx, my question is will it pass if i have it tapped from engine wireharness and run it straight to the ecu? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Sure, i dont see why not. As long as the wiring looks clean and looks stock (not some hack job, or stray wires hanging around) then you should be fine. Not having the vtec solenoid wired up doesnt seem like it would be emissions related, but i might throw a CEL. So double check your service plug next to the ecu for that. As long as youre not throwing a CEL, you should be fine. So yes, im sure you could run it straight to the ecu, but try to route it with the rest of the engine harness wires and wrap it with black electrical tape so it LOOKS STOCK.
For example. I didnt have my IAB's wired up. Sure i wasnt running the secondary butterflies during the test so its not emissions related, additionally, i wasn't throwing a CEL for that, so it was ok.
They only check for emissions related items such as vacuum lines, evap controls, o2 sensors, etc.
I hope that answers your question.
-James
Sure, i dont see why not. As long as the wiring looks clean and looks stock (not some hack job, or stray wires hanging around) then you should be fine. Not having the vtec solenoid wired up doesnt seem like it would be emissions related, but i might throw a CEL. So double check your service plug next to the ecu for that. As long as youre not throwing a CEL, you should be fine. So yes, im sure you could run it straight to the ecu, but try to route it with the rest of the engine harness wires and wrap it with black electrical tape so it LOOKS STOCK.
For example. I didnt have my IAB's wired up. Sure i wasnt running the secondary butterflies during the test so its not emissions related, additionally, i wasn't throwing a CEL for that, so it was ok.
They only check for emissions related items such as vacuum lines, evap controls, o2 sensors, etc.
I hope that answers your question.
-James
07-18-2005, 08:06 PM
#16
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: i dont know my address..., america
Posts: 534
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: Smog Ref: BAR Certified 07/13/05 (tkosmith)
DAMN!!DUDE!!! CONGRADULATIONS!!! and thanks for all the help by posting all this up. thanks again
07-20-2005, 12:39 AM
#18
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: (UNKNOWN_MEMBER)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by UNKNOWN_MEMBER »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so they checked your ecu wirings also? can you get some pictures of your motors and how you ran your vacuum lines, etc.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, but not to the point where they will trace every single wire to the ecu. They only check your wiring to make sure there are no hanging connectors or sensors with no plugs.
Ie: on my first visit, i had the evap purge solenoid sitting on my intake manny, but with no plug = FAIL. I eventually found the plug (plugged into the IAB's) hooked it up to the evap solenoid = PASS. Once the test was done, i hooked the plug back up to the IAB's.
So just make sure you dont have any loose connectors or obvious hack-job splicing. if you do have any custom wiring, wrap it in black electrical tape and route it along with the main engine harness to make it LOOK stock.
As far as vacuum lines, check your pm.
James.
Yes, but not to the point where they will trace every single wire to the ecu. They only check your wiring to make sure there are no hanging connectors or sensors with no plugs.
Ie: on my first visit, i had the evap purge solenoid sitting on my intake manny, but with no plug = FAIL. I eventually found the plug (plugged into the IAB's) hooked it up to the evap solenoid = PASS. Once the test was done, i hooked the plug back up to the IAB's.
So just make sure you dont have any loose connectors or obvious hack-job splicing. if you do have any custom wiring, wrap it in black electrical tape and route it along with the main engine harness to make it LOOK stock.
As far as vacuum lines, check your pm.
James.
07-29-2005, 07:50 PM
#20
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: (llxzxll)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by llxzxll »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this may be a totally off-the-wall question, but did your insurance rates go up because you have a performance-oriented motor in your civic/sol now?</TD></TR></TABLE>
No, the insurance doesnt know i ahve the motor swap. Which will suck if i ever crash the car because it wont be covered.
But i've heard other users on here going to their insurance company to insure thier motor (and other aftermarket items too), but yes, their rates went up.
James
No, the insurance doesnt know i ahve the motor swap. Which will suck if i ever crash the car because it wont be covered.
But i've heard other users on here going to their insurance company to insure thier motor (and other aftermarket items too), but yes, their rates went up.
James
07-29-2005, 08:24 PM
#21
New User
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: CA, USA
Posts: 583
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: Smog Ref: BAR Certified 07/13/05 (Jedi_Sol)
I got my 94 Hatch Bar'd with a 97 USDM gsr motor. Here is how i passed
I was turbocharged at the time my smog was due and didnt feel like buying my way out of the test so i took the necessary parts off.
When i did the swap origionally i used an obd1 engine harness, injectors, ECU, Distributor.
The First thing that i had to do was either remove the obd2 intake manifold and get an obd1 intake manifold or get a Skunk2 intake manifold( THey are Carb legal).
I chose the second route and emailed skunk2 for paper work concerning the E.o number. ( i still have this if anyone would like a copy)
This also helped me because i did not have to worry about the secondaries becasue they are removed with the intake manifold installation.
I found an evap soloniod from a buddy and wired that up.
I purchased a obd1 throttle body becaue the obd2 throttle bodies do not have a nipple for the charcoal canister.
I bought a new cat and o2 sensor
Went to the ref in escondido, ca and told the guy that the motor was a 94 GSR
Gave him all my info on the skunk2 manifold and AEM intake that i previously had, and started to wait.
About 25-35 min later he came out and told me that i was good to go and everything passed. He never said anything about the year of the motor after i tiold him it was a 94. he never asked for paperwoirk on the sale of the moto9r either.
He did verify that i was usinf the correct ecu.
On the bottom of the sticker it says that i have a skunk2 intake manifold and AEm intake so Cops were not able to say a word!
I ran no additives, 91 octance.
The funniest part of all is that i left on my front mount and oil feed line for the test
and he never said a word.
I did this process about 2 years ago.
Now all i need to do is rebuild my motor and put it back in. LOL
Hope this helps
I was turbocharged at the time my smog was due and didnt feel like buying my way out of the test so i took the necessary parts off.
When i did the swap origionally i used an obd1 engine harness, injectors, ECU, Distributor.
The First thing that i had to do was either remove the obd2 intake manifold and get an obd1 intake manifold or get a Skunk2 intake manifold( THey are Carb legal).
I chose the second route and emailed skunk2 for paper work concerning the E.o number. ( i still have this if anyone would like a copy)
This also helped me because i did not have to worry about the secondaries becasue they are removed with the intake manifold installation.
I found an evap soloniod from a buddy and wired that up.
I purchased a obd1 throttle body becaue the obd2 throttle bodies do not have a nipple for the charcoal canister.
I bought a new cat and o2 sensor
Went to the ref in escondido, ca and told the guy that the motor was a 94 GSR
Gave him all my info on the skunk2 manifold and AEM intake that i previously had, and started to wait.
About 25-35 min later he came out and told me that i was good to go and everything passed. He never said anything about the year of the motor after i tiold him it was a 94. he never asked for paperwoirk on the sale of the moto9r either.
He did verify that i was usinf the correct ecu.
On the bottom of the sticker it says that i have a skunk2 intake manifold and AEm intake so Cops were not able to say a word!
I ran no additives, 91 octance.
The funniest part of all is that i left on my front mount and oil feed line for the test
and he never said a word.
I did this process about 2 years ago.
Now all i need to do is rebuild my motor and put it back in. LOL
Hope this helps
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
hmtcrxsir
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
35
07-15-2009 05:50 PM
Neptronix
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
5
11-19-2007 08:13 AM
92hatchy_7
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
5
03-26-2005 10:38 AM
