skunk2 wheelstuds on ek hatch diy help
11-09-2005, 11:02 PM
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Re: skunk2 wheelstuds on ek hatch diy help (JDMedEK)
If you searched, you would have found this.....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I broke a wheel stud last fall, and I've been driving around with only 3 on one front wheel ever since. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="https://honda-tech.com/forums/images/smilies/emhammer.gif" BORDER="0"> x 100. I decided instead of just replacing that one stud, to replace all of the front ones. I opted for extended ARP wheel studs. ARP previously made studs which were designed for camaros, which had a VERY similar knurl diameter to the honda size, but it was not quite the same. They now make honda specific wheel studs. The part # for the 4 lug pack is 100-7711.
Now for the tech. I decided to take the time to take photos and make this writeup, instead of just complaining about the lack of tech lately.
DISCLAIMER: The method I used is not the "proper" way. I would highly suggest removing your entire spindle assembly when doing this, and replacing your wheel bearing. You need to use a press to do that though, and I know most honda-techers dont have 12ton presses at home. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE IF YOU FOLLOW MY DIRECTIONS AND DAMAGE YOUR WHEEL BEARING BEYOND REPAIR.
With that out of the way, let's begin.
To start off, here is a list of tools that you'll need:
Ratchet/torque wrench, would help to have a 3/8" and 1/2" drive
Various ratchet extensions
32mm or 1 1/8" socket - 1/2" drive for removing axle spindle nut
17mm socket - brake caliper mount bolts
19mm socket - wheel studs (you'll need a deep 19mm when you put the extended studs in)
10mm wrench or socket - brake hose mounting tab on upright
*Phillips head screwdriver (I believe it's a #9) - brake rotor retaining screws
Large slide hammer - this is available through autozone's loan-a-tool program, p/n oem 27033
Axle puller 3.75"/4.5" - also available at autozone, p/n oem 27037
Anti seize - this is for the lug nuts, so the nuts dont seize, also good for the rotor screws
Brake parts cleaner - now is a good time to scrub down your calipers, and you'll want to get your greasy finger prints off your rotors (I use non-chlorinated, in case I need to use it on engine parts)
Wire ties - these are good to tie the brake caliper up, so it doesn't hang from the brake hose
Long pipe - if you don't have air tools, you'll probably need this for the axle nut
BFH - never start a job without it <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="https://honda-tech.com/forums/images/smilies/emsmilep.gif" BORDER="0">
Jack & jackstands
*It's really common for the rotor screws to be seized. There is two ways to tackle this. You can use and impact driver, which is available at sears or autozone for $25-30, or you can drill them out and replace them.
Here's most of the tools I used:
Step 1: Jack up car and secure it with jackstands. Remove wheel and axle nut, so you see this:
Step 2: Remove rotor screws and caliper. Tie the caliper to upper control arm, so it isn't hanging by the brake hose.:
Step 3: Remove rotor, should look like this now:
Step 4: Mount the axle puller to the lug nuts, and tighten it down using your lug nuts. Next thread the slide hammer into the axle puller. The way the slide hammer works, is that by "sliding" back the weighted handle, you are pulling off whatever you have attached to the end of it. You want to use a steady, straight "stroke" when doing this step, to make sure not to damage the bearing or hub. When you think the hub is about to come off, make sure not to let that end of the hammer fall onto the ground.
Step 5: Unbolt the axle puller attachment from the hub. Set the hub aside, and take a break. Now would be a good time to inspect the inner bearing race, and ball bearings for any abnormal wear. At this point, you should have this:
Step 6: Ok, time to start working again. Put the hub on a block of wood, lug side up, and use your BFH to hammer the studs out. Again, straight and steady here. It's very important you don't damage any part of the hub, especially the stud holes. After you hammer the studs out, your hub should like like this:
Step 7: Now you need to install your new studs. There is a few ways you can do this. You can press them in. You can hammer them in. You can "pull" them through by putting some washers between the hub and a lug nut and tightening the nut down until the stud seats. Which ever way you choose to do this step, it's important to make sure you pull/press/push the studs in perfectly straight. You also want to try to get the studs to "seat" in the grooves the old studs made. When you're done here, you should be looking at something like this:
Step 8: Now it's time to re-install the hub. Before you start, take a moment to clean off the inner bearing race on the hub, since it may have gotten crap stuck to it while changing the studs. Also check the bearings in the spindle to make sure they are all seated right, and there is nothing on them.
Start off by pushing the hub back into the spindle by hand. You will be able to tell when you are starting to seat it. It's important that you have it straight at this point. Now install the axle puller and slide hammer. Start off slowly, making sure the hub is perfectly straight with the spindle. Now you can use the slide hammer to hit the hub back in. You can thread the axle nut back on now, and tighten it to 134lb/ft. Next put the rotor back on. Put some anti-seize on the rotor screws so it's easy to get them out next time you need to change your rotors. You should be about here now:
Step 9: A common reason for studs to break, is from lug nuts seizing. This can be caused by frequent removal, especially when hot (think after a session at the track). Another cause is from over-tightening. A good way to prevent the nuts from seizing to the studs, or galling up the threads is to use anti-seize. Anti-seize is a lubricant available at any auto parts store for $3-5. Here is a photo of the anti-seize tube, and one of me applying it to the studs:
Step 10: Cut the wire ties that are holding up the caliper, and reinstall the caliper. The two 17mm bolts should be tightened down to 80lb/ft. Now you can use your brake parts cleaner to clean the grease from your dirty hands off the rotors. Make sure you staked down your axle nut. Put your wheel on, and tighten the lug nuts to 80lb/ft. Just a little reminder here, if you go with the extended studs, and you usually use a lug wrench to loosen your lug nuts, you will need to use a 19mm deep socket from now on, to go over the long studs. Before you lower the car, grab the wheel at 9 and 3, and try to wobble it around. If there is play, than the hub is not on right, or the bearing is bad. If there is no play, pat yourself on the back and go do the other side. Here's what my POS looks like now:
Some other shots from today:
back of my dirty hatchcrap:
AE86 4ag valve covers stripping in the sun:
Comparison of studs:
OEM honda open ended lug nuts:
That's about it. If you have any questions, feel free to ask. Also, if there's any errors, please point them out.
Thanks to Adam (SANKA) for the help, and Lee
(743_dc2) for letting me borrow the jack yet again.
<IMG NAME="icon" SRC="https://honda-tech.com/forums/images/smilies/emthup.gif" BORDER="0"> <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="https://honda-tech.com/forums/images/smilies/emthup.gif" BORDER="0">
</TD></TR></TABLE>
BTW... I didnt write that... And SEARCH next time.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I broke a wheel stud last fall, and I've been driving around with only 3 on one front wheel ever since. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="https://honda-tech.com/forums/images/smilies/emhammer.gif" BORDER="0"> x 100. I decided instead of just replacing that one stud, to replace all of the front ones. I opted for extended ARP wheel studs. ARP previously made studs which were designed for camaros, which had a VERY similar knurl diameter to the honda size, but it was not quite the same. They now make honda specific wheel studs. The part # for the 4 lug pack is 100-7711.
Now for the tech. I decided to take the time to take photos and make this writeup, instead of just complaining about the lack of tech lately.
DISCLAIMER: The method I used is not the "proper" way. I would highly suggest removing your entire spindle assembly when doing this, and replacing your wheel bearing. You need to use a press to do that though, and I know most honda-techers dont have 12ton presses at home. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE IF YOU FOLLOW MY DIRECTIONS AND DAMAGE YOUR WHEEL BEARING BEYOND REPAIR.
With that out of the way, let's begin.
To start off, here is a list of tools that you'll need:
Ratchet/torque wrench, would help to have a 3/8" and 1/2" drive
Various ratchet extensions
32mm or 1 1/8" socket - 1/2" drive for removing axle spindle nut
17mm socket - brake caliper mount bolts
19mm socket - wheel studs (you'll need a deep 19mm when you put the extended studs in)
10mm wrench or socket - brake hose mounting tab on upright
*Phillips head screwdriver (I believe it's a #9) - brake rotor retaining screws
Large slide hammer - this is available through autozone's loan-a-tool program, p/n oem 27033
Axle puller 3.75"/4.5" - also available at autozone, p/n oem 27037
Anti seize - this is for the lug nuts, so the nuts dont seize, also good for the rotor screws
Brake parts cleaner - now is a good time to scrub down your calipers, and you'll want to get your greasy finger prints off your rotors (I use non-chlorinated, in case I need to use it on engine parts)
Wire ties - these are good to tie the brake caliper up, so it doesn't hang from the brake hose
Long pipe - if you don't have air tools, you'll probably need this for the axle nut
BFH - never start a job without it <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="https://honda-tech.com/forums/images/smilies/emsmilep.gif" BORDER="0">
Jack & jackstands
*It's really common for the rotor screws to be seized. There is two ways to tackle this. You can use and impact driver, which is available at sears or autozone for $25-30, or you can drill them out and replace them.
Here's most of the tools I used:
Step 1: Jack up car and secure it with jackstands. Remove wheel and axle nut, so you see this:
Step 2: Remove rotor screws and caliper. Tie the caliper to upper control arm, so it isn't hanging by the brake hose.:
Step 3: Remove rotor, should look like this now:
Step 4: Mount the axle puller to the lug nuts, and tighten it down using your lug nuts. Next thread the slide hammer into the axle puller. The way the slide hammer works, is that by "sliding" back the weighted handle, you are pulling off whatever you have attached to the end of it. You want to use a steady, straight "stroke" when doing this step, to make sure not to damage the bearing or hub. When you think the hub is about to come off, make sure not to let that end of the hammer fall onto the ground.
Step 5: Unbolt the axle puller attachment from the hub. Set the hub aside, and take a break. Now would be a good time to inspect the inner bearing race, and ball bearings for any abnormal wear. At this point, you should have this:
Step 6: Ok, time to start working again. Put the hub on a block of wood, lug side up, and use your BFH to hammer the studs out. Again, straight and steady here. It's very important you don't damage any part of the hub, especially the stud holes. After you hammer the studs out, your hub should like like this:
Step 7: Now you need to install your new studs. There is a few ways you can do this. You can press them in. You can hammer them in. You can "pull" them through by putting some washers between the hub and a lug nut and tightening the nut down until the stud seats. Which ever way you choose to do this step, it's important to make sure you pull/press/push the studs in perfectly straight. You also want to try to get the studs to "seat" in the grooves the old studs made. When you're done here, you should be looking at something like this:
Step 8: Now it's time to re-install the hub. Before you start, take a moment to clean off the inner bearing race on the hub, since it may have gotten crap stuck to it while changing the studs. Also check the bearings in the spindle to make sure they are all seated right, and there is nothing on them.
Start off by pushing the hub back into the spindle by hand. You will be able to tell when you are starting to seat it. It's important that you have it straight at this point. Now install the axle puller and slide hammer. Start off slowly, making sure the hub is perfectly straight with the spindle. Now you can use the slide hammer to hit the hub back in. You can thread the axle nut back on now, and tighten it to 134lb/ft. Next put the rotor back on. Put some anti-seize on the rotor screws so it's easy to get them out next time you need to change your rotors. You should be about here now:
Step 9: A common reason for studs to break, is from lug nuts seizing. This can be caused by frequent removal, especially when hot (think after a session at the track). Another cause is from over-tightening. A good way to prevent the nuts from seizing to the studs, or galling up the threads is to use anti-seize. Anti-seize is a lubricant available at any auto parts store for $3-5. Here is a photo of the anti-seize tube, and one of me applying it to the studs:
Step 10: Cut the wire ties that are holding up the caliper, and reinstall the caliper. The two 17mm bolts should be tightened down to 80lb/ft. Now you can use your brake parts cleaner to clean the grease from your dirty hands off the rotors. Make sure you staked down your axle nut. Put your wheel on, and tighten the lug nuts to 80lb/ft. Just a little reminder here, if you go with the extended studs, and you usually use a lug wrench to loosen your lug nuts, you will need to use a 19mm deep socket from now on, to go over the long studs. Before you lower the car, grab the wheel at 9 and 3, and try to wobble it around. If there is play, than the hub is not on right, or the bearing is bad. If there is no play, pat yourself on the back and go do the other side. Here's what my POS looks like now:
Some other shots from today:
back of my dirty hatchcrap:
AE86 4ag valve covers stripping in the sun:
Comparison of studs:
OEM honda open ended lug nuts:
That's about it. If you have any questions, feel free to ask. Also, if there's any errors, please point them out.
Thanks to Adam (SANKA) for the help, and Lee
(743_dc2) for letting me borrow the jack yet again.
<IMG NAME="icon" SRC="https://honda-tech.com/forums/images/smilies/emthup.gif" BORDER="0"> <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="https://honda-tech.com/forums/images/smilies/emthup.gif" BORDER="0">
</TD></TR></TABLE>
BTW... I didnt write that... And SEARCH next time.
11-09-2005, 11:58 PM
#5
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (g1itchgsr)
BFH = big f***ing hammer, they come in handy alot
as for the torque wrench i would say get one ASAP, they are one of the most basic tools to have when working on a car. suspension may not be as important as engine building when it comes to torque specs but i try to torque all parts corectly. i guess it just makes me feel better
as for the torque wrench i would say get one ASAP, they are one of the most basic tools to have when working on a car. suspension may not be as important as engine building when it comes to torque specs but i try to torque all parts corectly. i guess it just makes me feel better
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11-10-2005, 06:12 PM
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Re: (blazed_racer)
but youd have to use open ended lug nuts unless your lug nuts were very tall. if you use open ended the threads are exposed. whats the point of longer lug studs?
11-15-2005, 01:15 AM
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ive got both open end lug nuts, and also extended ray nuts...
but anyway, i want to know why the other guy mentioned to stay away from skunk2 extended wheel studs.. what makes them break...
but anyway, i want to know why the other guy mentioned to stay away from skunk2 extended wheel studs.. what makes them break...
11-15-2005, 06:57 AM
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Re: skunk2 wheelstuds on ek hatch diy help (lazybrown187)
skunk2 ones are garbage, search and you'll find a lot of people who have them and have broken them. APR are proven (i have a set on my car also) and are the same price. If you have notice, skunk2 have fallen in the quality department lately.
11-15-2005, 07:47 AM
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Re: skunk2 wheelstuds on ek hatch diy help (eg crunkmonster)
Nice writeup, except that I would NOT reuse the wheel bearings at that point. Once you've broken it open like that, the bearing is destroyed. You can put it back on and torque everything to spec but it will be a temporary fix and you will have to get in there again to replace the bearing, maybe the hub, and switch over the studs.
In fact, if you don't have the tools to remove that inner race off the hub without damaging the hub, I would replace the hub at the same time. The hub doesn't usually go but driving on a bad bearing for a while will destroy the hub.
The rear hubs are even easier and you can reuse the bearing, the whole hub and bearing unit just slides off the spindle after you remove the locknut.
And I don't know why the Skunk2 studs break, have ARPs on myself.
In fact, if you don't have the tools to remove that inner race off the hub without damaging the hub, I would replace the hub at the same time. The hub doesn't usually go but driving on a bad bearing for a while will destroy the hub.
The rear hubs are even easier and you can reuse the bearing, the whole hub and bearing unit just slides off the spindle after you remove the locknut.
And I don't know why the Skunk2 studs break, have ARPs on myself.
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