NorcalHB94

i know in terms of power the h22 is a better choice...but will it give me any extra problems for city/highway travel compared to the b16? also, for the CA members, is either one more difficult to get smogged than the other or are they both fairly easy to meet regulations? thanks.

JSR

Dont kno about smog but ur gas mileage will be alot better with a b16 then an H22.

RotiEatter

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NorcalHB94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i know in terms of power the h22 is a better choice...but will it give me any extra problems for city/highway travel compared to the b16? also, for the CA members, is either one more difficult to get smogged than the other or are they both fairly easy to meet regulations? thanks.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The H22 has no problems on the highway... It's better than a B16.

I can cruise through town, merge on to the highway, pass cars, etc... all while just staying in 5th gear. The H22 has more power than the b16. It's a fact.

I dunno about smog though.

Lmgrcivic

if you dont have power steering the B16 is alot better cause its not going to be as heavy and the B16 does get better gas milage

EKhothatch

I get the same mileage in my with h22a as I did in the d16z6 and I was throwing codes at the time. I don't know about a b16 I've never had one.

dantastic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lmgrcivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you dont have power steering the B16 is alot better cause its not going to be as heavy and the B16 does get better gas milage </TD></TR></TABLE>

its a common myth that the H is alot heavier than a B. the difference is only about 20lbs (so i've read in previous threads). the h22a does have some more smog equipment, namely an EGR setup. however, it's really not much harder to setup than a b series.

check out the h22a sticky in the hybrid forum. with the right combination of mounts and axles, you should have a completely reliable daily driver.

RotiEatter

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lmgrcivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you dont have power steering the B16 is alot better cause its not going to be as heavy and the B16 does get better gas milage </TD></TR></TABLE>

hahaha, yeah... this guy is right. Listen to him. I have to get some help me turn my steering wheel. I had to hire a guy just to ride with me all the time to help out. I can bench 500lbs and I can't even turn the wheel with a h22.


I think the B16 and H22 gas mileage would probably be pretty similar... plus B16's suck... atleast go B18

EKhothatch

Yeah, h22 wheel is a bit harder to steer, shorter axles and a tad more weight, but I also have powersteer unhooked and 215/45/16 tires and smaller steering wheel then stock.

^CX_d16

i would say the B16 for a daily driver. Too much **** can go worng wit a 22 and it's not worth the money if you aren't gonna build it

PDM

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ^CX_d16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would say the B16 for a daily driver. Too much **** can go worng wit a 22 and it's not worth the money if you aren't gonna build it</TD></TR></TABLE>

Oh really do you know this for a fact?

EGfosho

Well, I have done a H22A swap into my friends EK and I have done a B18c1 swap into my friends EG. B series is always an easier swap than the H22. You got to get engine mounts all around, get the right ECU, bang the firewall and the driver side engine bay, add some extra wires like the butterfly valve and other ****, mess with the shift linkage, like you have to make a custom hole in your console floor for the shift linkage to go through. So you always smell the exhaust. Plus with the H22 you always break axles. Other than that the H22 is good for power and if you have the USDM H22A it can be bar certified and pass smog. The B16 is a direct swap, plug and play. But you cannot get it bar certified because its not a USDM engine, unless you change all the sensors and other stuff to USDM spec to get bar certified.

ebp 99 si

i currently have an h22 in my hatch and i used to own a 99si and the gas milage is the same between the 2

my si was turbod on 9psi and was slower than my hatch all motor

BIGBLOCKEK

jesus christ where do i start....

first off:

you sissys crying about the h22 without p/s are a bunch of girly men.
i weigh almost 130 sopping wet, and i drive my h22 ek all over constantly with no p/s and it doesnt bother me one bit. its really not a big deal. did you originally have a car with powersteering functioning before your h22 swaps, then after the swap went without the p/s pully but left the whole ******* p/s rack system in your car? that'll make things suck hard forsure. thats a no no.

second:

driving around town in the h swap is beautiful, theres nothing better than torque.
most of the time i just take off in second because its so torquey that if i dont feather first gear just right, the tires break loose. in rain its worse lol.
you can go up a san francisco hill from like 20mph in fourth gear. its rediculous, and its easy, but be aware that this is not good for your car &lt;note to the guy who talks of driving around town in 5th gear. although i could do this, i never drive in 5th under 50 or so. running a gear like this puts imense force on your engine. it gets to a point to where its more wear on your engine than if you were to drive around at 30mph in second at high rpms.

third:

this swap install isnt for sissys either. our group can throw a b series swap together in a day, the h swap took the better part of a week. then i spent another week doing my harness one wire at a time, thanks to whatever ******* on here sold me a piece of **** "custom perfectly functioning wire hareness" for a wasted $100. anyhow, i did electronic assembly for 3 years and doing this harness still sucked.

fourth:

no matter how much crack you smoke, your gas milage with your h22 is not going to be as good as with a d series. unless of course your d series was a piece of ****.
H22 means TWO POINT TWO LITERS. D16 means ONE POINT SIX LITERS.
thats where you'll get your lack of gas milage.
but let me tell you, it feels good to be able to smoke the **** out of v8's and still get my 30mpg or whatever it is.

fifth:
dependability with your h series isnt going to differ much from your b series, unless you are a dumbass and havent a clue what you are doing. its still a honda. there actually was a rather shitty engine that came in a prelude...but guess what, it was a b series. if you did want say a b16/18 or something for that added comfort having a well known easy to work on dependable engine thats easy to acquire parts for, you'd eventually end up adding a turbo when you decide that you want torque like me. and then you would most definately be less "dependable" than any naturally aspirated honda engine. i know you wouldn't catch me driving a honda with forced induction up to the snow in the winter, or up and down california like its going out of style.

to end my story, i'd get a h22 swap if i wanted a fun car to drive daily. its so easy to just smoothly accelerate from 1k rpm's, it was worth the extra effort.

if i wanted a fun *** car to only use primarily as a high rpm rev happy monster, i'd get a b16 with its incredible rod/stroke ratio and id have the head built for good times.


good luck have fun


Modified by BIGBLOCKEK at 2:49 AM 1/15/2005


Modified by BIGBLOCKEK at 2:52 AM 1/15/2005


Modified by BIGBLOCKEK at 2:54 AM 1/15/2005

EGfosho

**** man, i think you know more about honda than me now. ****. Doing that H22 swap really did something to ur brain.

94_HATCH

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ^CX_d16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would say the B16 for a daily driver. Too much **** can go worng wit a 22 and it's not worth the money if you aren't gonna build it</TD></TR></TABLE>

Too much **** can go wrong with any engine...no matter the displacement

I nominate your dumbass statement as the best 05 yet

EGfosho

Don’t worry cx_d16 its only the beginning of the year, someone else is going to make a stupider comment

BIGBLOCKEK

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dantastic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its a common myth that the H is alot heavier than a B. the difference is only about 20lbs (so i've read in previous threads). the h22a does have some more smog equipment, namely an EGR setup. however, it's really not much harder to setup than a b series.

check out the h22a sticky in the hybrid forum. with the right combination of mounts and axles, you should have a completely reliable daily driver.</TD></TR></TABLE>

god dammit, another plethera of corrections to be made that i missed.

the engine weight really has no relevance.
the point of concern is the placement of the engine, and with the way some setups i've seen have the engine sitting in the car, the h22 does make a big difference with the whole area of concern (handling etc) that everyone has which they think is related to weight.

and yes, it really is "that much harder than a b." here's one person i know who hasn't at least seen someone try and twist an h22 around to make it fit into a civic.


im so sick of the false 2 cents everyone wants to throw in to everythread. we dont accept peso's here people. maybe post counts should be activated in the general forum so these people can get their count up by other means? if you havent even in the least bit viewed any of this **** first hand, do everyone a favor and keep the threads full of usefull info by keeping your assumptions to yourself.

thank you and good day

HybridVisions

This is a swap I might do soon. Sounds like fun to me.

Newman

Heh, always amusing to see these threads pop up.

FYI, driving a H22 w/out PS is no problem. What people consider a problem is when their car already has PS and they just cap it off and the steering rack has more play and feels harder to turn. If your car is already non-PS to begin with, then your won't have any problems with the steering rack and the steering will feel just fine and have no slack or play while driving.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EGfosho &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Other than that the H22 is good for power and if you have the USDM H22A it can be bar certified and pass smog. The B16 is a direct swap, plug and play. But you cannot get it bar certified because its not a USDM engine, unless you change all the sensors and other stuff to USDM spec to get bar certified.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Actually there are a few people here on HT and people I personally know of who has smogged their JDM H22A with a CA smog ref w/out any problems. Just make sure you have all of the emissions equipment from the US equivelant year/model Prelude engine and use a US P13 ECU and you'll be fine.

Newman

Er, forgot to mention what I was originally going to post

You should try driving a B16 hatchback and then a H22 hatchback and see how the difference is for daily driving. Driving a 1.6L motor vs. a 2.2L motor, there's a world of a difference in throttle response and it makes daily driving nice when all you need to do is barely tap the gas and you're moving along pretty good. But that's my opinion and how I drive around..... some people may like to drive at 7000 rpms from stoplight to stoplight and will give you a different response.

BIGBLOCKEK

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Newman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Heh, always amusing to see these threads pop up.

FYI, driving a H22 w/out PS is no problem. What people consider a problem is when their car already has PS and they just cap it off and the steering rack has more play and feels harder to turn. If your car is already non-PS to begin with, then your won't have any problems with the steering rack and the steering will feel just fine and have no slack or play while driving.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

haha sweet, like what i said but with all the obcenities and sarcasm edited out!

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Newman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Heh, always amusing to see these threads pop up.
Actually there are a few people here on HT and people I personally know of who has smogged their JDM H22A with a CA smog ref w/out any problems. Just make sure you have all of the emissions equipment from the US equivelant year/model Prelude engine and use a US P13 ECU and you'll be fine.</TD></TR></TABLE>

ill be doing this if by chance i get a "test only" next march. chances are ill be fine though and just go slip someone a bill.

EKhothatch

Duh and no ****. I wasn't bitching so stfu. Mine is still in because I doesn't bother me. I drove it all day everyday and I was weaker then I am now. Plus, I didn't care to burn up the p/s rack and I didn't have another manual rack to put it. Which now I do.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
second:

driving around town in the h swap is beautiful, theres nothing better than torque.
most of the time i just take off in second because its so torquey that if i dont feather first gear just right, the tires break loose. in rain its worse lol.
you can go up a san francisco hill from like 20mph in fourth gear. its rediculous, and its easy, but be aware that this is not good for your car &lt;note to the guy who talks of driving around town in 5th gear. although i could do this, i never drive in 5th under 50 or so. running a gear like this puts imense force on your engine. it gets to a point to where its more wear on your engine than if you were to drive around at 30mph in second at high rpms. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, tq can do that. But why would you?


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
third:

this swap install isnt for sissys either. our group can throw a b series swap together in a day, the h swap took the better part of a week. then i spent another week doing my harness one wire at a time, thanks to whatever ******* on here sold me a piece of **** "custom perfectly functioning wire hareness" for a wasted $100. anyhow, i did electronic assembly for 3 years and doing this harness still sucked.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

It didnt' take me that long. I would say its not for sissy's but its not hard at all. The wiring is water.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

fourth:

no matter how much crack you smoke, your gas milage with your h22 is not going to be as good as with a d series. unless of course your d series was a piece of ****.
H22 means TWO POINT TWO LITERS. D16 means ONE POINT SIX LITERS.
thats where you'll get your lack of gas milage.
but let me tell you, it feels good to be able to smoke the **** out of v8's and still get my 30mpg or whatever it is.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nobody said anything about a D16... nor the gas mileage of them. Of coarse they have better gas mileage. But if you have bigger injectors and a turbo like mine for example the gas is about the same or less then my H22 and it runs about the same time. I still get better gas mileage in the H. But B16 is a little different not much, thats what we were talking about.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
fifth:
dependability with your h series isnt going to differ much from your b series, unless you are a dumbass and havent a clue what you are doing. its still a honda. there actually was a rather shitty engine that came in a prelude...but guess what, it was a b series. if you did want say a b16/18 or something for that added comfort having a well known easy to work on dependable engine thats easy to acquire parts for, you'd eventually end up adding a turbo when you decide that you want torque like me. and then you would most definately be less "dependable" than any naturally aspirated honda engine. i know you wouldn't catch me driving a honda with forced induction up to the snow in the winter, or up and down california like its going out of style.

to end my story, i'd get a h22 swap if i wanted a fun car to drive daily. its so easy to just smoothly accelerate from 1k rpm's, it was worth the extra effort.

if i wanted a fun *** car to only use primarily as a high rpm rev happy monster, i'd get a b16 with its incredible rod/stroke ratio and id have the head built for good times.


good luck have fun
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Actually the only real problem I've had thats pissed me off is the axle deal. I've broke 2: one at the track and one doing a f'n u-turn. Other then that I like it, its different for this area, tq is fun for the street but at the drag track I prefer less tq.

BauleyCivic

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=878010