CesLNX

Hello guys.. my sons car is a 1998 civic lx d16y7. he was driving it the other day and he said it just cut off.. no sputtering just shut down.. I'm not getting any spark..New coil...new ICM..new rotor and cap..Ngk wires are fairly new along with spark plugs good condition.still no spark.. i had my son try to start it while I see whats going on.. Notice that the rotor isn't spinning at all...Can it be timing belt? any suggestions would be very appreciated. thanks guys

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Pull the timing belt cover?

CesLNX

No I havent Pulled the timing belt off.. got to dark to work. will do tomorrow morining. see how that goes. I will keep you posted. going to try to find my work light in the attic, to try to pull cover off tonite.

CesLNX

took cover off.. yup it's the timing belt. completely gone.. so now which parts are recommended for replacement.. belt. tensioner.water pump...etc.......honda dealer or aftermarket.. any good sites out there for some good prices

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

OEM. Always.

dazebreak

I heard Gates timing belts are what Honda uses for OEM, true? But yes OEM, and yes timing belt, tensioner, and water pump. Check engine seal while you are in there, I would say.

belairbrian

I've put three gates sets in and never had a problem with any of them.
But before you get too far along, you need to see if you bent a valve.
remember this is an interference engine

fonkernuckle

iTrader: (5)

Gates does make oem belts for honda and I trust them I also have a car running goodyear gatorback no problems, head gasket is a different story: oem for me always

StraussBuster

Rock Auto is a good website for oem replacement parts at good prices.

Former User

Install the new belt and then compression test the cylinders.

94EG8

Mostly true. The Y7/Y8 belts are definitely made by Gates. Some others are made by Unitta (which is a division of Gates)

Pic of an OEM Y7/Y8 belt I put on a couple of weeks ago:



As far as the rest of the stuff goes buy OEM. I haven't seen an aftermarket waterpump yet that was any good. You might also want to replace the cam and crank seals as well. Put it together and hope you didn't bend any valves.

belairbrian

Since I don't have the service records I can't say for sure, But I believe the one I just took off may be the one from the factory.

It had 190k miles on it. I base the conclusion on the fact that there was a factory applied code sticker that was placed across the joint between the upper and lower cover joint. It was intact and well adhered. Can't see why some one would replace it after taking it off.

I found the same thing on my 99 CR-V which the original owner confirmed it had not been changed (bought it at 104k miles).

Unfortunately there were no markings left on it.

CesLNX

Hello guys.. sorry for the late response.. this is whats going on.. replaced timing belt, tensionor, water pump (Gates). did a compression test and all turned out good. the thing is when the car warms up and and is just idleling i get P0303. so we changed plugs, wires, (NGK). distributor cap and rotor, fuel filter (OEM) tripled checked timing belt. all is TDC. Any suggestions?

jbpnoman

Is there anything wrong with the idle?

CesLNX

I also cleaned out IAVC. which was pretty clean already.. The Idle is slightly rough when warm. the car runs great. just when idled at stop signs and red lights.. It's a lil rough but not much.

lostforawhile

How did you not bend valves?

jbpnoman

"A little rough" is pretty indicative of a miss.

Let the engine warm up. Turn it off, then immediately do a compression test on 3, 2, and 4. Ignore 1. If everything is healthy (less than 5% margin), switch the plug and wire from cyl3 to cyl1. Reset the ECU, then let the engine warm up again. Does the CEL change from P0303 to P0301, does it remain P0303, or does it go away?

CesLNX

I would think. That maybe a couple of valves bent. compression test was good. I'm going to do compression test again. and switch plug and wires. would keep you guys posted.. thanks

lostforawhile

Be careful, if you bent any valves, the valve head may be ready to break off, then you start looking for a motor, at this point you may already be looking for a head, I don't think its possible to break a belt in that engine without doing some bending

jbpnoman

It's quite possible. Half of the Honda timing belts I've replaced due to snapping (D, B, and F) haven't damaged valves.

DumpdEJ6

Yeah it mostly depends on what RPM the motor was at when the belt went. Of the timing belts that have gone in mine and my friend's car's: B20 bent valve, D17 bent valve, D15 no bent valves. The timing belt snapped on that D15 TWICE, got pretty lucky lol.

Another thing in my experience is that if the the bent valve isn't BADLY bent, it won't make its presence noticed until a couple days later. I don't know exactly why this is, but the B20 and the D17 both ran fine for a couple days afterwards, then started running rough and after compression testing, discovered the bent valve.

apexi_rsx

its obviously picking up a missfire on cylinder 3 did your compression test show any loss in this cylinder? was it the lowest? sometimes the stock steel valves when hot will un bend and reseal themselves if ridden on enough... so ive heard pretty ure u may have slightly bent a valve in that cylinder. id go ahead and repace them all while ur at it... they are cheap and easy to do with the right valve spring tool

lostforawhile

I discovered the early A20s the BS version, don't hit eithier, broke a belt at 6500 rpm, you can set a piston on TDC and drop the valve all the way to the retainer before it touches. Well beyond its operating range, im not sure about the later ones,they have slightly higher compression