Maypatch53

So yesterday I took off my valve cover, and EVERY SINGLE BOLT was ove[]r torqed... What a pain in the ***. 2 screws survived , while the others did not. Well it turns out one screw still goes in fine, but the other one the actual THREAD broke off and is in 2 pieces, so other than taking my time getting the broken bolt out of the other 3 threads, can I JB weld the broken thread? It's the closest one to the timing belt on bottom right, it still has a little area to twist into but not much, please help me out and let me know I just got this car and this bull**** happened!'

TomCat39

It's actually really common as the torque on those is 7 ft-lbs. Everyone tends to over torque them.

Of note, need to know what car you have as the bolts differ between vtec and non vtec and also between 5th gen and 6th gen.

Sooooo..... Year Make Model Trim and any Modifications to the car you are aware of.

With that information the correct part numbers and diagrams can be provided for your car.

And no, JB weld will not hold.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

<p>https://honda-tech.com/honda-civic-d...sting-3002401/</p><p>Stickied threads aren't optional reading.</p>

Maypatch53

It is a 96 civic, DX non vtech standard d15y7, is there anything that will hold the broken thread together? Or do I replace the head

tony_2018

How many broke? How bad? pic's of broken threads in the head.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

<p>D16Y7. &nbsp;You don't have to replace the head. &nbsp;Just remove the old stud, buy a new one, and install it. &nbsp;They're cheap from the dealership.</p>

TomCat39

Depending on where it snapped (just the head of the bolt, vice grips will grab the stud) you just swap em with new, no big deal at all.

Here is the FSM sheets for the D16Y8, D16Y7 and D16Y5:




If for some god awful reason they snapped at the threads, then you get the displeasure of drilling a hole into the stud and using a bolt extractor/easy out to get the threaded stud out of the head so new bolts can go in.

And here is your parts list for OEM. One set is with rubbers (#10 & #11), and one set is without (#12 & #13).:

http://www.hondapartsnow.com/parts-l...ead-cover.html

chrysler kid

Left handed thread drill bits, they will take care of the screw easily. This is a picture of one of my valve cover bolts that came out very easily with the left threaded drill bit

Basically they turn left to drill into the old bolt, as they drill into the old bolt in a counter clockwise motion the loosen the broken bolt as they drill into them.

A set of them is $14.99 at any auto parts store. They need to specifically say left threaded drill bits

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

<p>They're also called extractor bits. &nbsp;I bought mine at Sears for ~$15. &nbsp;Easy to use.</p>

chrysler kid

Not exactly, extractor bits are shorter and often come individually packaged. You typically use an extractor after you drill a hoLe where as I have the most luck using the left threaded drill bits as they do both jobs at once

I tend to break most extractor bits so I've just stopped using them all together, either that or I've just gotten good using step 1 lol

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

<p>Meh, the extractors I got from Sears came in a 4 pack. &nbsp;Yes, they are shorter, but using low RPM and heavy pressure has yet to fail me. &nbsp;Different paths to the same result </p>

chrysler kid

Yep, my left threaded drill bits came with an extractor tip set. I used them on my ls1 to remove a valve cover bolt but haven't needed them since. Thankfully since the bolts were so narrow to begin with they don't need much torque to break free.

I've also use freeze off between drill sessions to freeze up the bolt to shrink it back down again after its gotten hot from the drill bit

There is usually more than one way to skin a cat

redm3turbo

i broke #2 like 3 years ago.
Never bothered replacing it- doesn't leak, doesn't have an issue sealing, nothing.

White_EG1

^ x2 but mine was #4

Maypatch53

Hi, recently I took off bolts when I took my valve cover off... They stripped in threads and broke 2. So I got a new head and I'm getting it resurfaced very soon, and I'm cleaning it using engine degreaser/cleaner(let me know if that's bad) figured I can't pressure wash due to temperate but can I!, anyways what all do I need to replace the D16y7 head? What parts/screws, rebuild kits ect, need to know everything I need, I am learning as this will be my first engine work, will take my time bag everything and make it neat and do it right. Thank you guys for your help! And are there any manuals/rebuild books that will guide me threw?

Maypatch53

Due too 2 threads being destroyed and no way to fix it.. I went with a new head, got it for 35$ and going to clean it up and resurface it, anything else I should do? How hard is it to do your head, are there any good manuals out there that shall help me with this project , how hard is it to swap out a head?

TomCat39

Swapping isn't bad, remanufacturing/refreshing needs a machine shop.

When you take it to be resurfaced, they can tell you if you need new guides etc.

If you do, let them do the valve train work on the head and then you just have to worry about the head swap after it's done.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

<p>Why do we even bother? &nbsp;It's like people don't even try to listen.</p>

TomCat39

Yeah, you know the saying.... You can lead the horse to water.....

This way I know I found the water, so if they perish from dehydration, it's not from us.