E-brake or Handbrake

Here is another thread i came across while doing my search. it closely resembles to my problem except the thread starter had an alt. belt problem.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=707028

In my case, the IACV was dirty so i carb cleaned it. did what this thread suggests to do: http://www.g2ic.com/forums/sho...=iacv

after 3 hours and some minutes, i replaced the IACV and test drove my car for about 2 miles.

PROBLEM: when the car isn't moving, the idle is fine and maintains at 500-700. when coasting in neutral, the idle drops to the line above ZERO. Headlights would dim noticably when idle drops down to zero. Car does not stall but acts as if it will. Please help!

I'd also like to know if tightening the bolts of the IACV back onto the IM have to be PRECISE or other wise the IACV won't work correctly?

Other information:

o2 sensor was replaced roughly 4 months ago with a generic brand (75 dollars).
no vacuum leaks (only touched IACV)
car: 1994 Civic Coupe D16Z6 5spd

Thank you in advance!

1 point 6

Raise your IAC screw and adjust your throttle cable.

E-brake or Handbrake

how would i be able to raise the IAC screw? so in other words, the screws have to be PRECISE? (don't think it could be ajar in any way but you get the idea)

how will adjusting my throttle cable help? the only part i've touched was the IACV including its neighboring parts (coolant hoses, plug, etc)

1 point 6

Because after time your throttle cable becomes stretched, lubricate it and tighten it.

To adjust your IAC screw you need a 7mm I think to undo the nut underneath then turn the TINY *** screw with needle nose or some actually have a slot for a screw driver.

sleepyhamsterlx

when you remove the coolant hoses did you have to crimp them so coolant doesn't come out, im doing this to my y7 tomorrow. In other words what did you do about stopping the coolant from coming out of the hoses

E-brake or Handbrake

we used a towel to soak up some of the coolant coming out when yanking out the IAC.

but after that, the hoses should hold upright and coolant won't spill out.

E-brake or Handbrake

took out the car again and it ran fine. idle is at 500-1000 now and it hasn't dropped to zero yet. maybe the car needed to be a little bit warmer.

Xsi

Did you bleed your coolant? Air bubbles can cause bad idle.

E-brake or Handbrake

how would i go by bleeding the coolant? (noobie Q i know)

opening the radiator cap? draining some coolant from the hoses connected to the IAC?

EDIT: heard it was under the radiator?


Modified by EJ1Z6 at 2:47 AM 1/12/2004

1 point 6

There is a bleeder valve where the upper radiator hose meets the block.
Start the car and open this up, or even easier start the car and take off the radiator cap.

SOHC_MShue

it depends on the car...i know my y8 doesn't have that bleeder valve like the z6 motor has.

edit: nevermind...you have a z6

Xsi

Theres a bit of a run through here: http://www.integra.orcon.net.nz/thermostat although you car will be slightly different.

Tad

heres a little note
the line above zero is actually 500rpm

Jimmy

iTrader: (5)

next time use helms

E-brake or Handbrake

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by USDMDC2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">next time use helms </TD></TR></TABLE>

that's why I have my fellow honda-tech members help me out

that's what this site's all about

i appreciate for all the replies given to me.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">heres a little note
the line above zero is actually 500rpm
</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks for the heads up on that--i seriously didn't know. I've always thought right in the mddle between 0 and 1 would be 500 nevertheless.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Xsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Theres a bit of a run through here: http://www.integra.orcon.net.nz/thermostat although you car will be slightly different.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Nice guide

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1 point 6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There is a bleeder valve where the upper radiator hose meets the block.
Start the car and open this up, or even easier start the car and take off the radiator cap.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Done

Thanks all!

sampol999

kool

Good ol' Screwtape

When you adjust your idling screw, your engine needs to be up to operation temperature. While the engine is still on, disconnect the 2p connector on the IACV. THEN adjust the idle screw. Reconnect IACV. Reset ECU.

E-brake or Handbrake

thanks for the heads up on that!