Cerberus10411

Hello all.

So here I am, I rebuilt a D16Y8 from a 2000 Civic after my other D16Y8 spun a bearing and... well you can fill in the pieces, and if you need help doing so I have a box of pieces that can help.

The engine went into a 94 Civic EX, rebuild went smooth, honed the engine, standard rings and bearings, replaced the water pump, oil pump, timing belt, gaskets, seals, and a bunch of other parts.

I timed it, got the idle at 700 RPMs, or as close as I can tell on the tachometer. Its not popping any codes and the check engine light isn't on. I drove it about three miles, the whole time it was under powered, was crawling up hills in first gear. The other thing I noticed was it was lurching, not very hard but still was doing it a good deal.

I'm not sure how to proceed. I need to get to town tomorrow and get a compression tester and check that.

Anyone have any ideas, or some advice on this?

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Exactly how did you break in the engine after the rebuild? What did you gap your rings to? Have you done a compression test?

Cerberus10411

I idled it at 1000 RPMs for around 15 minutes. Had the machine shot that honed the block do the rings. I have not done a compression test yet, I need to get to town tomorrow and pick up a tester. Meant to say that in my first message but didn't finish that sentence.

ferio-ichi3

First gear did that for me too, would rev to like 3-4k then release the gas, and it would do like a jump forward couple times, i always thought it was engine vaccuum, plus the gearing. All stock motor with close to 200000 miles. And when you broke it in, you should rev it to the moon so the rings will seat right. Rev til you cant go no more. Rev then get off gas. Let it build up vaccuum. Just beat it. If you dont, if you rev high, youll have lots of blow by

Cerberus10411

I hope it is as simple as not being fully broken in. I was going to use break in oil but the shop that did the work said there was no need and to just go with 10w30 or 5w30.

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

^^
What he means is when the engine is under load to rev it, and then let it brake itself. This will expand the rings and help them set. You dont need to redline it wen revving it.
Just a normal drive on the hwy, downshift and let it slow down on its own

Cerberus10411

Ill run it a bit before work tomorrow and see if it corrects itself. Dont think I can get it onto the highway though, i had trouble getting up to 50 MPH and ended up doing about 5 in first gear going up hills.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

You didn't break it in correctly, then. 50 miles of hard running, with the proper break-in oil, is all it takes to properly do it. Once you're past that 50 miles, it's done, for better or for worse. Do a compression test.

visiblystealthy

iTrader: (1)

check mechanical timing, then before you put it back together, check it again....... and again. If you're 100000% sure it's correct and problem persists, check voltage output from throttle position sensor and reference the service manual for proper specs.

Cerberus10411

Work sent me out of town for a few days, but got back and got it running. Everything was as it needed to be... I just didnt jump the service plug so the ECU wasnt letting me time it correctly. Thank you everyone.