TripleLude

A 2000 Civic Ex (D16Y8 head + D16Y5 block) in my family's fleet took a dump and I need advice.

Rings have been shot for a while and the engine was run very low on oil (by the owner). Accelerating on an interstate on-ramp caused the timing belt to slip/eat 1 tooth and the engine stalled. Luckily, I was able to start the engine up after setting the timing back, meaning no bent valves.

I've got the head off and I replaced the piston rings and connecting rod bearings already. By request, my father wants the head overhauled too, so I wash it down and take the rocker assembly off (equipped w/ lost motion assembly).

Here is what I find:





I know some Honda cams are hollow inside, but what about a D16Y8?
Is this cam Solid or Hollow?

Usually, I would not question this issue and just replace it, but my father wants to save money since he is helping to fund repair parts costs. And FYI, I had the pistons out in 6 labor hours, including cleaning time of the head gasket surfaces and pre-cleaning. I am not a total noob or anything.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

What does it matter?

doood

iTrader: (1)

can you see through it?

B_Swapped93

I've seen a snapped one...pretty sure they're solid unsure which ones are hollow I know my gsr/itr ones are solid

TripleLude

I cannot see through it... hope it stays that way.

Thanks man. I know the B20a is hollow and the B20b is solid, so I guess it is just random on Honda's.

Do you think, in this situation, it would be too risky to run that cam if all the lobes check out and it is strait?

kyden

it is scarred. find a new head + cam.

edit: just find a new complete motor.

TripleLude

A new head and cam I can understand, but why a new motor?

I just honed the bottom end and put new rings and con-rod bearings, plus did a lot of cleaning. Here is some of what was done.

kyden

the journal on the head is scarred.

jbpnoman

Why do those cylinder walls look mirror honed? I see good cross-hatching in cyl 2, OK cross-hatching in cyl 1, and absolutely zero cross-hatching in cyls 3 and 4. I also see P2W clearance that you could drive a bus through.

TripleLude

Very impressive observations. I am glad you can assess these details.

I used a camera phone but I assure you all cylinders have perfect cross-hatch with a 600 grit Flex-hone. The camera focus makes it look funny. As for the mirror appearance, that is the result of WD-40.

Piston to wall clearance is borderlined. I checked it to be 0.003" at the widest point, which is #3 at 12:00 if you are standing in front of the car. #2 was also partially oval at 12:00 but was like 0.0025" or so.

This car is low mileage, but the previous owners buchered a lot of it and there have been a lot of massive problems to repair. After investing so much money in repairs already (like alternator, calipers, knock sensor, catalytic converter, etc etc), we have just about everything squared away. All that was left was the oil burning issue with the rings, and now the cam-head issue too. If we have to buy a whole new engine, the total investment in repairs might exceed the price we payed for the car... which is uneasy.

jbpnoman

Yeah, I can understand that. I know cameras can do funny things, that's why I brought it up instead of harassing you about it. .003 isn't bad for an NA rebuild. In the coloquial, I'd *** widit.

TripleLude

May as well post this info too. Dry compression was all over the place from 125psi to 75psi. Wet compression was 225-ish. So I pulled the head off and found 1/4 inch of deposit cake on the valves. It's surprising a valve did not float, even after slipping timing.



















You can see the caking has chipped off at some point. I assume it built up enough to kiss a piston. Never have I seen so much junk on the combustion side of valves.