Rear Disc Swap Questions...**searched**
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Rear Disc Swap Questions...**searched**
Ok, i'll be swapping my rear drums out finally this weekend and wanted some info on the following:
First off.. they're GSR discs, Si stainless lines, Si E-brake cables, Si MC, 40/40 prop valve and my car is a 98 Civic DX Coupe.
- My main concern is draining all the fluid out of my system in order to do this swap. Do i just open up the bleeder nipples on all corners?
- The other thing i need help with is replacing both the Master Cylinder and the proportioning valve. Is it simply unplug the lines going to the stock ones and replacing them onto the new ones?
I've searched all over for info on this but it seems that someone ruined all the brake swap How-To's with no pics and unclear information
I'll be trying my hand at a VERY detailed how-to. So please.. help
First off.. they're GSR discs, Si stainless lines, Si E-brake cables, Si MC, 40/40 prop valve and my car is a 98 Civic DX Coupe.
- My main concern is draining all the fluid out of my system in order to do this swap. Do i just open up the bleeder nipples on all corners?
- The other thing i need help with is replacing both the Master Cylinder and the proportioning valve. Is it simply unplug the lines going to the stock ones and replacing them onto the new ones?
I've searched all over for info on this but it seems that someone ruined all the brake swap How-To's with no pics and unclear information
I'll be trying my hand at a VERY detailed how-to. So please.. help
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Re: (DXkid888)
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=642479
scroll down till u see suspension, THERE ARE PLENTY, and this is at the top of the page
scroll down till u see suspension, THERE ARE PLENTY, and this is at the top of the page
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take your own advise and click them bro... i've been searching this site for a month now trying to find GOOD info... someone changed the EK swap how-to's with HORRIBLE information that does nothing but outline what fits and what doesn't...
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Re: (DXkid888)
You don't really need to get all the fluid out of the system, just makes it less messy when swaping out the parts. Just remove the parts and replace them with the new ones.
When you say Si stainless steels lines, do you me stainless steel lines to replace the rubber ones? Cause those are the ones that need to be replaced. Otherwise it looks like you have the correct E-brake, MC, and prop valve.
Modified by JDM_teh_WIN!! at 10:18 PM 3/29/2006
When you say Si stainless steels lines, do you me stainless steel lines to replace the rubber ones? Cause those are the ones that need to be replaced. Otherwise it looks like you have the correct E-brake, MC, and prop valve.
Modified by JDM_teh_WIN!! at 10:18 PM 3/29/2006
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Re: (JDM_teh_WIN!!)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_teh_WIN!! »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You don't really need to get all the fluid out of the system, just makes it less messy when swaoing out the parts. Just remove the parts and replace them with the new ones.
When you say Si stainless steels lines, do you me stainless steel lines to replace the rubber ones? Cause those are the ones that need to be replaced. My only concern would be that you have the right parts. I think your need GSR lines to fit the caliper. I know the lines that go from the hard lines to the caliper have different banjo fittings from model to model. Otherwise it looks like you have the correct E-brake, MC, and prop valve. </TD></TR></TABLE>
thank you
as for the lines.. yes they're 99-00 Earls Stainless lines. I've noticed that the banjo fittings on the stainless lines don't entirely take up the space that the stock rubber ones do. they DO cover the bolt hole though. Should i just use the rubber lines?
Can i just crack open the bleeder nipples and let the fluid flow or do i need to drain, close, pump brake, drain..etc..?
When you say Si stainless steels lines, do you me stainless steel lines to replace the rubber ones? Cause those are the ones that need to be replaced. My only concern would be that you have the right parts. I think your need GSR lines to fit the caliper. I know the lines that go from the hard lines to the caliper have different banjo fittings from model to model. Otherwise it looks like you have the correct E-brake, MC, and prop valve. </TD></TR></TABLE>
thank you
as for the lines.. yes they're 99-00 Earls Stainless lines. I've noticed that the banjo fittings on the stainless lines don't entirely take up the space that the stock rubber ones do. they DO cover the bolt hole though. Should i just use the rubber lines?
Can i just crack open the bleeder nipples and let the fluid flow or do i need to drain, close, pump brake, drain..etc..?
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Re: (DXkid888)
Well You need to do them one at a time. You don't need to do the fronts, but since you are really changing the system you should bleed the whole system. You can use a turkey baster type tool to get the fluid out of the MC.
Well you can't use your drum lines to the new discs. Usually the banjo fitting has some notches or like and angled side so that it flushes up on the caliper. If it does then you are all good. If it looks like the banjo fitting is not flush where it connects to the caliper then I would think you have a problem.
Make sure you try to get the least amount of brake fluid on the painted surfaces or rubber parts of your car cause it with mess it up.
Well you can't use your drum lines to the new discs. Usually the banjo fitting has some notches or like and angled side so that it flushes up on the caliper. If it does then you are all good. If it looks like the banjo fitting is not flush where it connects to the caliper then I would think you have a problem.
Make sure you try to get the least amount of brake fluid on the painted surfaces or rubber parts of your car cause it with mess it up.
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yeah, i have stock si rubber lines and stainless civic si lines... so i'll be set either way. I'll be replacing the front rubber lines with stainless ones as well. Thanks for the help... much more appreciated than that of "search... it's there"
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