solfire

Hi all, been a while since my last post but Im back in the del Sol improvement phase and need to know a couple things....
First off, my front upper adjustable control arm is working to accommodate for some of the negative camber caused by lowering springs, but not all. I have the slide type with 4 allen screws on each side and they are fully pulled outwards in the slots but still are about 0.6 of a degree from level which isn't a big deal, but just wondered if there was something I could do on the lower end to get some more out of it.
I haven't done anything to the rear yet and have way too much camber obviously. I know I need a rear camber kit but my question is this. If I got Rear LCA's that were adjustable would I still need the camber kit for fine tuning? or am I totally off base and Rear adjustable LCA's are for something completely different. I would rather just have the rear adjustable LCA's if possible but if I need both I need both. Also have solid polyurethane trailing arm bushings so I'm heading in the track direction if that helps.
Thanks for any input

civicb1812345

just get ucas that are ajustable. hell of a lot easier and ajustable lcas sound like they wouldnt be to safe. just what i have on my hatch. lowerd 2.5in all the way around and no negative camber at all

purgat0ry

iTrader: (3)

Why do you wish to correct the camber?
Looks or you suspect it's harming things?

Camber doesn't kill tires, toe kills tires.

crazyhouse2011

How so? Wouldnt having the tire angled so that the inside Of the tire bears more weight mean that the inside would wear down faster?

purgat0ry

iTrader: (3)

Good read: https://honda-tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes-54/click-here-all-you-curious-about-suspension-setups-their-costs-reliability-2967499/

B_Swapped93

0 toe all around if you're into 140+ mph pulls makes a nice difference at those speeds. and negative camber is nice in the corners with some sticky tires, I've got 0 toe with around -4* camber all around handles like a dream

jbpnoman

0 toe is less than ideal. You should always run a hair of inward toe to keep your car tracking properly.

B_Swapped93

yes it isn't the most fun in the rain or on a DD but it all depends on what you're using the car for and what tires you're running also. My teg doesn't see the streets daily anymore, track or back road runs. does reduce tire wear over toe in tho lol

00ejhatch

If camber is not causing your car to pull then you can nothing to worry about. very minimal tire wear from camber. As everyone else always has said it is your toe that does the damage but camber can AS well if you have more than .5 degrees difference between the sides. In this case the car will to pull to whatever side is out worse which can cause significant tire wear from constantly fighting to keep the car from pulling.

solfire

Ok got solid skunk2 rear LCA's, Adjustable rear UCA's and adjustable rear Toe arms. I have access to a Hawkeye aligner and am going to put it on on Saturday once I get the pieces on. I have the LCA's and UCA's on MY question is with adjustable toe arms, if one is longer than the other isn't that going to screw everything up? also do I actually have to take out the whole trailing arm to get that one bolt out because it needs to thread out right into the subframe..

*edit
when you are doing the alignment for rear toe do you need to loosen the trailing arm bushing rod bolts? One of the holes is slotted to allow for movement. when should this bolt be tightened?

solfire

Bump* I want to install these toe arms today, do I have to take off the entire trailing arm to get that one bolt out that threads out towards the front? Plz n thx

solfire

Nvm got adjustable toe arms in. Put it on the hawk eye and got it all aligned but the right toe rod is unthreaded about an inch more than the left making it a lot longer. The car drives fine and tracks straight, but am I going to encounter another problem because of this or is it affecting some aspect of the handling I'm not feeling like dog legging?