SkyeC

My car will be lowered to leave about .5"-1" of gap between the fender and tire, does anyone know approximately how much negative camber I will have front and rear? I need to know so I can purchase the proper camber kits for the front and rear.

I'm planning on having -2.25 degrees in front and -1.75 degrees in back. (I'm not interested in zeroing out my camber, this is for autocrossing.)

Will I need to go with a replacement upper arm kit for the front such as the Skunk2 unit or can I get by with a ball joint replacement from SPC?

Will the rear have more than -1.75 degrees, and if so, can I just use a few washers to get by, or have to go with an SPC / SRR rear camber kit?

...and yes, I did a search, but 90% of the information was leaning towards zeroing out the camber, not adding more, which is what I'm thinking I will have to do and the company's websites are not terribly clear about if their kits are going to work well for adding camber.

BTW, this is a 1992 Civic.


[Modified by SkyeC, 1:26 PM 3/10/2003]

rambler

PM'd you Skye.

Nash

M-EJ1

If you're lowering it to the specs you say then you shouldn't need to worry about having a kit that will add camber. I don't know the exact specs, but you should have plenty of negative after lowering it, you'll need to add positive to get it where you want it for autocrossing.

I'm using the Skunk2 arms and washer trick in the rear. The washer trick works great, I added longer bolts and 3 washers and my camber is within factory specs (right on the line on the negative side). Up front my skunk2 arms are pushed almost all the way out (not quite) and I'm right on the within spec line on the negative side as with the back. If I push it all the way out, it would be about zero. Here's a pic of how far my car is lowered: http://66.227.57.101/exnbp/March%200.../DSC02074.html

I'm not a big fan of the skunk2 arms for a couple reasons... 1) the included hardware is soft stainless steel junk and will bend if you try to tighten it down at all to keep it from slipping 2) they will slip if you don't grind all the slick red paint off the top and torque the bolts down 3) the ball joints on mine were toast after 6 months and I had a mad race to get them replaced before Bremerton this last sunday. I'm just stating what's happened to me, so if anyone has other experiences, then pipe up, but I'm about ready to throw mine away and look for other options.

BTW, this is Matt, I was with Stephan yesterday at Bremerton when he was talking with you, but I didn't introduce myself. Yeah, I'm the guy whose car died in the middle of the run. Turned out to be the ground wire on the ECU... it was loose/broken.


[Modified by M-EJ1, 6:15 PM 3/10/2003]