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Pulling a B series

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Old 08-20-2007, 07:42 PM
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Default Pulling a B series

I have looked for any write up on pulling a B series out of a Si... Anyone know where I can find a write up with pictures?
Old 08-20-2007, 07:47 PM
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Default Re: Pulling a B series (HCivicSi23)

Its the same as a D series. Take off everything so the motor is hanging off mounts soly and take off all the wires and everything then pull.
Old 08-20-2007, 07:58 PM
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Default Re: Pulling a B series (Luserkid)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Luserkid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Its the same as a D series. Take off everything so the motor is hanging off mounts soly and take off all the wires and everything then pull. </TD></TR></TABLE>

HAHA... I need some more in depth detail than that. Some has had to have posted a write up on this.

Bump.
Old 08-20-2007, 08:04 PM
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Default Re: Pulling a B series (HCivicSi23)

take out your axels, unplug everything, unhook the linkage from the tranny, hook up the engine hoist, unbolt the mounts, lift engine out.... its pretty straight forward....
Old 08-20-2007, 08:09 PM
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Default Re: Pulling a B series (92'si)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92’si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">take out your axels, unplug everything, unhook the linkage from the tranny, hook up the engine hoist, unbolt the mounts, lift engine out.... its pretty straight forward....</TD></TR></TABLE>

Alright.
Old 08-20-2007, 08:10 PM
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Default Re: Pulling a B series (HCivicSi23)

axles. harness. linkage. mounts.... oh yeah and exhaust.. and uhh slave cylinder. that should be about it i think
Old 08-20-2007, 08:11 PM
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Default Re: Pulling a B series (jonathan13)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jonathan13 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">oh yeah and exhaust.. </TD></TR></TABLE> **** knew i forgot something
Old 08-20-2007, 08:41 PM
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Default Re: Pulling a B series (92'si)

drain oil/trans fluid/coolant, undo axles, undo linkage, unplug harness, undo mounts, lift out. i dont have ac or psso that should go in there somewhere
Old 08-20-2007, 09:58 PM
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Default Re: Pulling a B series (speedooo)

right now would be a good time to invest in a helms manual.
Old 08-20-2007, 10:37 PM
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Default Re: Pulling a B series (forcefedferio)

http://www.c-speedracing.com/h...4.php

there ya go. its the same general idea as bulling a b. its a cingle cam coming out of an eg and putting in a gsr
Old 08-20-2007, 10:46 PM
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Default Re: Pulling a B series (forcefedferio)

Originally Posted by forcefedferio
right now would be a good time to invest in a helms manual.
yeah that wouldnt be a bad idea. However, there are tips and tricks i've learned after like 10 or more motor swaps in my garage in the last 2 years lol. I did my first one on an EF. I pulled out my friend's del sol motor and wired my EF for OBD1 by hybriding a 94 ex harness. It was a TOTAL nightmare lol. But i got it done knowing little to nothing except for how to take off nuts and bolts and how to solder.

EKs are super easy. You got a ton of space, and best of all, the wiring harness comes COMPLETELY OUT.

let the the car cool down, unplug the battery. take the grounds off the valve cover (the one that goes to the core support) and the trans grounding strap.

Drain all fluids into seperate containers for oil based stuff (oil, trans, brake fluid, etc.) and one container for coolant. You can undo the drain plug on the radiator to drain the coolant out of it, and then either just undo the coolant drain plug located on the block behind the header. It's a 19mm bolt. DONT LOSE THE WASHER!!!

Take off all the crap intake, shift linkage, radiator hoses. Take all the wiring off the firewall via the 10mm bolts. Take off the slave cylinder and undo the line brackets and tuck it somewhere. This way you wont have to bleed it. However, If your fluid is dirty, you might wanna take off where the lines attach and flush it out.

** the best thing to use for the shift linkage pin is a 12mm AC compressor bolt that you will no longer be using. I have a TON of extra bolts that i've accumulated but, Since you'll probably need your 12mm compressor bolt, just use a punch lol.

BE VERY CAREFUL WITH A/C LINES!!!!!

Take off the A/C compressor via the long *** 12mm bolts. Put it aside. DONT TAKE OFF THE LINES OR KINK THEM. I usually put it on the driver's side frame rail behind the headlight. You can wire tie it there with a coat hanger.

Take off the power steering pump and put it aside as well. No need to take off the lines.

take off the header. it makes it a ton easier.

take off the battery and battery tray. There are 3 12mm bolts. Underneath all that, there are 2 10mm bolts holding in the wiring harness. take them off.

Take off the passenger kick panel that houses the ECU. Unplug the ECU, and the dash harness (green plug)

Go back to the engine bay and pull the harness out of the passenger compartment. Tug on it but dont break any wires. Unplug the starter wires. place the harness on top of the motor so it wont snag on anything.

Crawl under the car and take off the 2 19mm bolts that hold the trans to the rear T bracket mount. Get back up into the engine bay and undo the remaining 17 or 19mm bolt holding the T bracket to the motor.

Hook up the cherry picker chains to the 14mm bolt for the PS bracket. Put 2 chainlinks on 2 different header studs to act as a safety/stabilizer. Make sure that the chain will not be lifting the motor by the header studs....again...its just a safety incase the other link breaks and it also helps to make it so the motor wont swing wildly. Put a towel on your valve cover if you dont want the chain to chip it.

Take off a trans bolt that is near the starter. Put the other cherry picker chain there. Dont tighten it down too much or the chain will crack the bell housing. Make sure the bolt will not bend or break or crack the housing as well.

Take off the rest of the mounts. For the lower mounts (A/C bracket and front trans mount) just take off the 14mm bolts that attach to the lower frame rail. On the trans side, you take off the entire bracket via the 3 17mm bolts. On the driver's side, you can either take off the AC bracket (not a bad idea, it gives you more space to work) or you can undo the 17mm and 14mm bolts that hold the mount to the bracket.

When taking off the upper Driver's side mount and upper trans mount, loosen the 17mm that "skewers" the mount first. Make sure that the cherry picker chains have tension so the motor will not fall now.

Take off the 17mm studs/bolts that go thru the upper DS and PS mounts.

Now take off the "skewer" bolt completely.

Just lift the engine out of the top taking care not to peirce the AC condenser.

i'm sure there's stuff im missing, but im sure you'll catch it. This is the express internet version of taking out an engine.

Putting it back in is a little tricky. Leave the header off ...it makes your life easy.
Put the T bracket mount back on first. The rest will line up a lot easier that way.

For the upper DS and PS mounts: Once the motor is hanging in place, put on the "skewer" bolts first LOOSELY. then hoist the motor back up using the 17mm studs/bolts that go downwards. Use a jack under the car to stabilize and guide the motor if you havent done this before. Dont get under the car without the jack holding up the motor as well.

Leave all mount bolts a little loose until all mounts are on.


Old 08-21-2007, 11:44 AM
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Default Re: Pulling a B series (B serious)

Thanks guys.
Old 08-21-2007, 11:58 AM
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Default Re: Pulling a B series (HCivicSi23)

it's the same as a d-series motor, just picture a b-series in it.
http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto.php
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