galognu

OK. Now that I've pulled out my hair, here's the story.

First this is a 93 Civic Hatch with a JDM B-18C GSR motor OBD-1. I had to replace motor and got JDM B-18C that was OBD-2 but basically switched out all peripherals and used all the OBD-1 components. Car ran fine for over a year. NO ISSUES.

Last year it died on the highway..just died. I was able to restart it after a few and it turned off a few more times before I finally made it home.

Initially I just cleaned the distributor contacts and car started right away, but then died later. Got new cap and rotor, started fine, then died later. Finally I followed this awesome diagnostic and followed it. I highly recommend it: Part 1 -How to Test the Igniter, Ignition Coil Accord, Civic, CRV, and Odyssey

Following it lead me to believe based on the step by step testing that it was the distributor. I got an OEM one replaced it, put car back together and it started fine. I had some conflicting issues with power so I had already resodered my Main relay, and replaced the ignition switch. The old ignition switch was quite worn. So after replacing all that including the new ignition coil, the car started right away. As it's been in the garage up on jackstands, I started it a few times without issue. I left it on with the idea I was gonna finally drive it and it died. Crank No Start again.

Went through the entire diagnostic again......same result led me to bad ignition coil. I returned it as it did not meet specs based on this thread: https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...d-bad-2830157/

Got another coil, replaced it. (amazingly this second brand new one also tested out of spec. The OHM resistance between A and B primary windings was 1.4 (limits are 0.6-0.8) This is what my original coil that I replaced also tested at.


SO, I replaced the coil again with the one I just wrote about above. Car started right away and within a minute died. My buddy thinks its the crank position sensor, but on my OBD-1 distributor, this is inside the distributor and I have not been able to determine how to test for that or if its a replaceable part. The only diagnostic I have not done is number 6, testing the igniter for the triggering signal...I don't have an LED test light. Although I don't understand why I need to test it since the previous test confirmed my test light was flashing on/off therefore pointing to a bad ignition coil.

Hence me pulling my hair out.

Any ideas?

Thank you

eghatch9295

iTrader: (1)

any engine lights at all?

mk378

Bad spark wires or cranking / running the engine with a spark wire disconnected can blow the coil. Such a coil might still pass the ohmmeter test, but it will throw only weak yellow sparks to a grounded test wire held near the coil output with the cap off.

When measuring small resistances, touch the leads of the meter together first to check the zero. If it doesn't quite read zero, subtract that number from any readings on an actual circuit.

Check that the ignition circuit is staying powered up, one way to do that is to pull the hand brake up and watch the brake light on the dash. It should stay on while cranking and while the key is in the run position whether the engine is running or not.

galognu

All lights stay on while cranking.

I'm starting to think it is the crank position sensor inside the distributor. Is that a replaceable item or I need to get another distributor.

eghatch9295

iTrader: (1)

you're sure of your solder job on the main relay? OEM distributors don't fail that often. if we were talking vatozone replacement, i'd second a dizzy issue again. in your case, it is unlikely.

galognu

The car turns on and runs for a few minutes after I go through the process and change the ignition coil. Then it dies and I will get the crank no start condition. Yes the main relay is solid.

eghatch9295

iTrader: (1)

so what's cooking the coil? wire with bad insulation?

galognu

I'm not sure its the coil. About the only thing I have not done is take the original one I took off and replace it to see if it will start for a minute like the other one. But the ohms testing on the original OEM, the OEM one I returned, and the new non OEM one I just put in were all identical. So what's puzzling me to no end is why the diagnostic points straight to the coil when it's clearly not the problem.

I'll likely be taking it to mechanic for more testing and a definitive answer early this week.

galognu

I macerated the igniter trying to take it out. There are two small bolts through the distributor and I had not noticed them, so I have a new igniter on the way and will see if that's the problem. The distributor looks perfect otherwise. Will report back.

94EG8

You can't buy any of the 3 sensors in the distributor, but they are replaceable if you have another used distributor to pull them out of. D and B-series use the same sensor, the only difference is the length of the wire on them. Even OBD2 D and B-series are the same other than again, the length of wire and the pins.

mk378

Make sure the distributor still has the plastic insulator plate that separates the cap/rotor area from the other parts. If that is left out, sparks can jump to the low voltage stuff and cause problems.

galognu

OK. Mine is unusual. Its not the coil, igniter, or distributor.

After replacing the igniter, it would not start, so I switched back to my original coil and its started. When it was running I was looking around and as I touched the wires going into the plugs for the distributor it started to die. It caught back, but when I pushed the wires again it died. So it has to be a wire issue somewhere along that path.

Taking it to mechanic.

mk378

Unplug the plugs. Check that all the metal pins are all pushed all the way out through the plastic part, and not bent or otherwise mangled.

civicdelsol33

ECU my friend. Pull it out and look for damage on the board. But it could be wiring if you touch them and the car dies.

galognu

Another update:

On a whim I tried to start it yesterday....started right up. So I went to the connectors to the distributor which I had opened and rechecked both sides all of which were normal. Anyways, I figured as soon as I started pushing the wires the car would die, but not this time. It stayed on, warmed up, I drove it up and down my street on a hill just in case. Turned it on and off a number of times. Went to the distributor and moved the wires around a number of times and it stayed one like nothing ever happened. SO I cannot be the igniter, distributor, ignition coil, or ECU. Has to be a loose ground or some wire issue. I already changed the Main Relay. So I'm gonna have to wait till I get a no start situation and take it to the shop then. This is not a usual situation...hence pulling of hair!

galognu

Now it starts every time. I'm afraid to leave the area as it could strand me anytime!!

tony_2018

Cool.