JDM_SOHC

I ordered my 4040 valve for my rear disc's and when comparing it to the one thats on my car, all the holes lines up but the bracket on the prop valve i have lines up perfect on the supporting bolt on the left but its like over an inch shy of the bolt on the right... Can I just swap out the bracket on my prop valve on my car for my new one.?? I see theres 2 bolts holding that bracket together but it seems like if i removed them it would come apart...

cxSHOE

yes you can use the other bracket and yes it will come apart, but its just a spring and lock tyte the bolt..

and yes ive done this myself.

teamsol

cxshoe is right....but if i remember correctly you need a certain type of screw driver to take off the bracket. Take a closer look at the screws and youll see that its not phillips or flat. Im pretty sure you can get the tool at sears though

JDM_SOHC

yeah there like star/torx bit lookin bolts that are in there.... hmmm anyone kno the correct name.... so i kno what to look for at autozone to take'm out..

cxSHOE

oh and i see your going with the 15/16 brake setup.... you should go 1" with booster and m/c. you will see a much more usable brake feel going 1"

i went from 13/15 to 15/16 to 1" and yes i wasted my time and should have skipped the 15/16 setup.

cxSHOE

i forget where mine came off of, but i had to use a torx wrench... i just went to sears and bought one then returned it. some come in phillips and other come with a torx design...

cxSHOE

also mine was really really hard to take off. so spray some liquid wrench or heat it up a bit aswell.

teamsol

good to know...i went with 15/16mc just cause i did not need to reflare the lines. Is there a 1inch mc that you do not need to flare the lines?

JDM_SOHC

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cxSHOE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">oh and i see your going with the 15/16 brake setup.... you should go 1" with booster and m/c. you will see a much more usable brake feel going 1"

i went from 13/15 to 15/16 to 1" and yes i wasted my time and should have skipped the 15/16 setup. </TD></TR></TABLE>

i heard i have to reflare to do that and i kno nothing about that....

cxSHOE

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_SOHC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i heard i have to reflare to do that and i kno nothing about that....</TD></TR></TABLE>


not necessarily you just have to get the correct m/c i used a usdm '99 Ls integra with abs and both nipples are 10mm so no reflaring of anything just bending the front brake line.

homicydalboy

Can you post pics of the 1'' mc compared to the rest I have two and dont know which one to use. One has a huge resivor and the other is smaller. But I dont think that that would matter.

cxSHOE

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by homicydalboy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Can you post pics of the 1'' mc compared to the rest I have two and dont know which one to use. One has a huge resivor and the other is smaller. But I dont think that that would matter.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i dont have any photos saved. but here is a jdm itr m/c and booster. the usdm version would have the side valve coming out of the other side. but everything else is the same. this is the duel reservoir version


early integra m/c did come in 1" and should fit on the civic booster if i remember correctly, and have 1 large circular reservoir. but for '98+ 1" m/c you will need the integra booster inorder to make it work, because the mounting points were turned a bit.

neocrynym

Go to Sears and buy a set of tamperproof or inverted torx bits. That's what I did. I forgot if Craftsman calls them tamperproof torx or inverted torx, but it's one of those. I also forgot which size, but the set has like 7 or 8 bits and one of them was the right one.

And yes, definitely do a couple soakings of PB Blaster before you attempt to remove them.

As far as the size goes, I went from 13/16 & 3030 prop. valve to 15/16 & 4040 prop valve on my hatch and it was night and day difference in braking. Yes, 1" would be even better, but you'll still notice plenty of difference going with the 15/16, don't worry.

NineTwoSi

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_SOHC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah there like star/torx bit lookin bolts that are in there.... hmmm anyone kno the correct name.... so i kno what to look for at autozone to take'm out..</TD></TR></TABLE>

Tamper-Proof Torx Bit

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr...ken=1

JDM_SOHC

good **** good ****... thanks for info guys i went an got bits today at sears, it was 14.99 for a set with like 25 diff. bits and a small socket wrench.. but yeah i heard id notice a big difference in the 15/16 too, i just didnt wanna have to go through a mission an take a risk at fukcin something up cuz then id be like mad super pissed haha... even though i doubt i would break something i just wouldnt wanna get pissed over something that could be avoided an replaced with something that would still make a noticeable difference... But yeah ima have to do this bracket swap though cuz its not gonna fit otherwise.. Ill post up some pics when its done..

neocrynym

Oh, and a bit of advice that has been left out of this thread thus far that is VERY IMPORTANT, IMO:

I learned this the hard way...some people will argue differently, but spend the $8 for the wrench at Sears and buy yourself a FLARE-NUT WRENCH! I used a regular 10mm open-end wrench the first time I did work on my MC and prop. valve, and it stripped/mangled the brake line fittings bad. I was in a hurry and wasn't thinking. So, save yourself a potential HUGE headache from not being able to loosen (and more importantly tighten properly) the fittings and go buy a 10mm flare nut wrench. Cheap insurance

cxSHOE

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by neocrynym &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Oh, and a bit of advice that has been left out of this thread thus far that is VERY IMPORTANT, IMO:

I learned this the hard way...some people will argue differently, but spend the $8 for the wrench at Sears and buy yourself a FLARE-NUT WRENCH! I used a regular 10mm open-end wrench the first time I did work on my MC and prop. valve, and it stripped/mangled the brake line fittings bad. I was in a hurry and wasn't thinking. So, save yourself a potential HUGE headache from not being able to loosen (and more importantly tighten properly) the fittings and go buy a 10mm flare nut wrench. Cheap insurance </TD></TR></TABLE>


oh yes i would certainly agree... a 10mm flarenut wrench is a must.

and also you do not need any teflon tape on any of the nipples.

JDM_SOHC

yeah i got like 10 rolls of teflon an a combo 12mm 10mm flare nut wrench like a year or two ago, great investment..