HKSone

I'm gettin my 92 hatch repainted and would like some info on preping it. The car is orginally white and im getting everything repainted white again including the engine bay, door jams and rear hatch area.

Starting from the engine bay, im going to have the engine removed of course, and move the brake lines or any other accessories out of the way and mask the brake lines. Next how would I go about preping the surface for paint? Heard I only need to scuff it through with steel wool only, but do I need to clearn surface with any solvent or is wet sand needed?

The door and jams and the rear hatch area should follow the same procedure as above correct?
Also, Im going to remove most of the mouldings as possible, anyone know how hard is it to remove mouldings from the rear quater windows and the front windshield? I was told i have to cut through the window and actually taking out the windows if i'm going to replace the moulding because it it glued onto the window. If it takes experience to get it done, I will leave it to the professionals to do that.

Other then that, i'm going to have the body shop fix dents, prep the outer surfaces before they paint it, but i'm going to try to do a little sanding before having them take care of everything. I'm going to get a few new mouldings of they look like they need replacing but everything including bumpers and lights will be removed. Anything else I should look into to prep and get the work done right? If I was to do a good job preping the body before paint, would getting it painted at Maacco be a good idea, since they have a paint warranty? All I heard bad about Maacco is because they dont properly prep the car for paint, but is their paint also cheap? Thanks, please help trying to get the car finished

SOHC4life 96

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And painting...
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FearTheH

iTrader: (5)

1. Primer any bare metal spots or spots of body filler 2. Scuff sand the primer with 180 then with 220grit making sure you dont go to metal again. 3. Wet sand the complete car with 400 grit, then go over it again with 600 grit with 3m ''wetordry" paper. 4. wash with soap and water(rinse soap off thoroughly) 5. Allow car to completely dry, and being masking. 6. after everything is masked, use a precleaning solvent and clean the entire area to be sprayed sections at a time(it evaporates quickly). 7. Using a a tack cloth(cheese cloth) lightly wipe the sufaces to be sprayed. 8. Spray base color(average 4 coats with 15 minutes of flash/drying time in between coats). 9. Once base coat is dried wipe very lightly with tack cloth again, then Clear coat(3-5 coats) 10. Allow clear to dry for 24 hours, wetsand with 1200 grit to 1500 grit to get any imperfections out, buff and shine Don't listen to whoever is telling you that you have to cut your **** man.. and definately dont use steel wool.. wont allow for proper adhesion of the paint.. Good luck

showbiz

180 and 220 is way to rough for primer IMO

FearTheH

iTrader: (5)

well, i would hope i know what im talking about.. i've had 4 years of formal training, plus do it everyday.. but you know what they say opinions are like ********... everybody's got one!

drunknbass

id amke sure the engine bay is totally clean of all grease and dirt.. usally having it sandblaster is a good idea of you want the paint to stick

jbscivichb92

don't go to maako. they suck. you can get a better paint job using 20 cans of duplicolor

Tanmt

thats how we do it at our shop.. just dont use 3M sand paper.. it sucks.. use the Eagle brand.. and its reccommended for a coat of sealer before the basecoat.. so paint it grab better

HKSone

Great info guys, but before i actually sand or primer the car down, I should wash the car with regular car wash soap? any specific kind reccomended? And what brand for the greese or wax remover, its just one combo cleaner right? But what comes first the greese/wax cleaner or wash the car first. And this step is same for the door jams and engine bay right? Lastly, no one had any info on removing mouldings on the rear quarter windows and front windshield, anyone know, or just leave it to professionals? thanks

chris_c

before i being prepping for paint i wash the car with dawn dishwasher detergent. heh, it cuts grease right? most automotive soaps are mild and do not strip wax and grease.

HKSone

That is what i was going to do, clean with dish washing soap..anyways up again for moulding removal..

FearTheH

iTrader: (5)

for dawn dish detergent definately the way to go to get rid of any grease and grime built up. But remember.. If in doubt.. wash it again, if still in doubt, wash it two more times.. never hurts just to make sure.. you'll be happy with the results.. Good luck!!

Tanmt

you dont have to wash the car before you sand.. if you're using a 80 grit then its gonna get dirty anyways.. as for the molding.. let the professionals remove and install.. if you mess it up.. you'll have to get new ones.. for the door jambs and engine bay.. just sand with a scotch pad