andoxviii

iTrader: (1)

Okay, so I recently purchased a 96 EG2, which has what appears at first glance to be a bone stock B16A2.

But being an enthusiast, and having ideas to purchase a B20 to make a B20VTEC, I want to make certain that I know exactly what I have.

The head is stamped as a PR3-1 manufactured in 1995.

I have read online from multiple sources that the PR3-1 is either a B16 or ITR head, and the only way to tell is the year of manufacture. If it is stamped as a late 80s or early 90s, it is a B16. If it is stamped mid to late 90s, it is an ITR. But then that would mean I have an ITR head...

So, if you own a stock Del Sol VTEC from 1996 or 1997, please reply back with what your head stamp says. I want to know for sure what I have in my car.

Thanks,
-Ando

doctorake

andoxviii

iTrader: (1)

Really? if that's the case then there is a ton of misinformation on this topic.

Thanks for the (hopefully accurate) info. I'll check it out.

John M

the motor in a delsol vtec is a b16a3

andoxviii

iTrader: (1)

Between 1993 and 1995, yes. You are correct.

Between 1996 and 1997, it is a B16A2.

andoxviii

iTrader: (1)

I didn't want to remove the distributor right now, but I did notice some green paint on the VTEC pressure switch...not sure if that means anything.

tony_2018

b16a head is b16a head I guess?

andoxviii

iTrader: (1)

What are you trying to say? That I shouldn't care?

doctorake

B16A2

VTEC

Found in:

1992-1995 Honda Civic VTi EDM (EG9)
1992-1997 Honda Del Sol VTi EDM (EG2)
1993-1995 Honda Civic Si EDM (EG6)
1996-2000 Honda Civic VTi EDM (EK4)
1999–2000 Honda Civic Si USDM (EM1)
1996-1997 Honda Del Sol USDM "VTEC" (EG2)
1999–2000 Honda Civic SiR CAN (EM1)
1999–2000 Honda Civic SiR Philippines (EK4 sedan)
1995-2000 Honda Civic VTi-R AUSTRALIA (EK4)
Displacement: 1,595 cc (97.3 cu in)
Bore×Stroke: 81.0×77.4 mm (3.19×3.05 in)
Compression: 10.2:1
Power: 160 hp (119 kW) @ 7600 rpm & 111 lb·ft (150 N·m) @ 7000 rpm (USDM)
Transmission: Y21/ S4C
Redline: 8000 rpm
Rev Limit: 8200 rpm
VTEC engages at 5600 rpm
Aluminum Casting
ECU Code: JDM P2T (square case) or USDM P30 (regular case)
OBD1(1992-1995) OBD2a(1996-1998) OBD2b(1999-2000)

andoxviii

iTrader: (1)

I don't get it...why are you highlighting that I am correct?

doctorake

so others can see

tony_2018

The difference is minimal in each head, just the type r flows better with a mild port job. What are you trying to accomplish by knowing what you have?

andoxviii

iTrader: (1)

Seriously?

As I already stated in the original post: "But being an enthusiast, and having ideas to purchase a B20 to make a B20VTEC, I want to make certain that I know exactly what I have."

Also, knowing what I have would be important for other reasons... just one example: lets say I blew the bottom end, or actually, even without blowing it, knowing what it is would be important if I decided to sell the head.

eghatch9295

iTrader: (1)

op- please avoid b20 vtec. instead, find a b18c1 gsr block. google "poor man's type-r".

andoxviii

iTrader: (1)

Appreciate your input, but there are ways to build a B20VTEC properly/reliably...

That said, I am still deciding between a B20 or a B18B. Both are relatively cheap from JDM importers. Then again, both need a ton of work to make them reliable with a VTEC head...so I suppose cost shouldn't be a concern for me if I decide to build a frankenstein. So I guess when the time comes, if I can find a GSR block in good condition for a good price, I will consider it as well.

tony_2018

If you were indeed an enthusiast, like all the experience people here are, than that info would've been confirm by now and not by asking people to feed that info to you. Like someone said check the paint markings by removing the distributor. Don't be a ***** by being afraid to take the valve cover off or the distributor. Another hint to google for are the valvesprings.

andoxviii

iTrader: (1)

I ALWAYS do research. I hate to make a new thread. I made a new thread only because (again, as I stated in my original post) I saw conflicting information on this topic. Everyone was saying something different so how am I supposed to know what to believe? To avoid receiving false information, I asked only those with a 96-97 Del Sol VTEC to come in here. Obviously I appreciate all information, but I never asked you to come in here.

I'm not expecting to be spoon fed info, and I don't consider myself to be a noob. I've done two complete swaps myself - D16Y7 to a D15B VTEC in my 00 Civic hatch (which was an OBD2B non-VTEC to an OBD1 with VTEC) and an H22Z1 to an H23VTEC in my 01 Prelude. Both required a ton of research that I did myself, and as such, both worked flawlessly on the first key turn without an engine light or any other hiccup. So no, I am not a "***** that is afraid to remove my valve cover" as you state. Don't pretend to know me and say bullshit like that. It isn't appreciated and doesn't help me figure this out.

mayfly

check the cam shafts and valve springs, also the intake manifold is diffrent for the itr. both bolts into each other the same but the itr is bigger. as for the head. pull the headers off and see if the ports are smoothed out or still rough like from the cast(its not going to tell you 100% but close enough).