Orange Peel??
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Orange Peel??
Anyone know how to get ride of orange peel? I heard you wetsand with 1500 grid sandpaper, then use compound on it. Anyone know what kinda compound? Rubbing or Polish?
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Re: Orange Peel?? (JDM CTR EK)
yeah, just basically wet sand it (keep running water where you are sanding), check at your local paint shop and they should have some stuff that should do the trick, but DO NOT go through the clear coat, you'll wish you still had the orange peel. You should use a buffer wheel, but don't spend too much time on the edges, like fender or high points on doors or you'll go throught the clear coat. Hope this helps.
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Re: Orange Peel?? (civickidd99)
Yeah when i wetsanded my bumper i started with 1500 wet and dry paper and did the entire bumper. Then i moved to 2000 wet and dry paper. After that I used rubbing compound on the bumper then I polished it and waxed it. Make sure when your sanding with the water once the white milky clearcoat dust water starts turning the color of your bumper STOP. That is when you have gone through the clear and into the paint.
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Re: Orange Peel?? (JDM CTR EK)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM CTR EK »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So lightly wet sand with 1500, then use rubbing compound. Do i really need to polish?</TD></TR></TABLE>
yea buff it out after.
yea buff it out after.
#6
Re: Orange Peel?? (O.G triple O.G)
id try out just using rubbing compound first..that may do the trick..the clear coat isnt too think and can be gone with one swipe if its less than 2 coats
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Re: Orange Peel?? (deepnite)
It all depends on the condition of the paint, how much clear is on it, how bad the orange peel is, etc... It may be possible to take it out with a wool bonnet on a rotary buffer using some rubbing compound. If its more severe you may need to wetsand. I would suggest starting out with 2000 grit if you've never done it before, 1500 can leave som rather heavy sanding scratches.
I recently did my fender after it came back from the body shop. Heres a lil step by step:
1.) Take the car out in the shade and run a hose over the fender and lightly sand with 2000 grit wet/dry sandpaper (I like Meguiars Unigirt finishing paper). Sand in ONE DIRECTION and do not under any circumstances use a circular motion. After your first pass, you should see that the upper parts of the paint ar dull with the crevices of the "peel" still shiny. Simply sand until the entire surface is dull. Its important to keep the water running on the part you're sanding as you sand it.
2.) Once the paint is good and level, use the 2500 grit paper to lightly wetsand over the areas you just leveled, this will help to minimize any sanding scratches and will make compounding easier.
3.) Use a rotary buffer with a foam pad and Rubbing Compound (I like 3M PerfectIT) to buff out the sanded area. Don't let the buffer hover on edges where the paint is thin and never let it rest in one place for too long as you can "burn" the paint. At this point you should have a nice gloss.
4.) Go the extra mile and grab some machine polish and (I like 3M 's machine glaze) and a mild foam pad and go to town shining up the fender.
5.) Protect it with whatever polymer/acrylic or wax (or even acrylic THEN wax) you prefer and admire your work
Just make sure you try this on some test panels before you hit the real car and if at any point the water dripping from the car changes from the "milky" color mentioned above to the color of the car stop because you've already gone too far into the paint and will prolly need it re-sprayed. This was real quickly typed, but hopefully it'll be of help to ya
-J
I recently did my fender after it came back from the body shop. Heres a lil step by step:
1.) Take the car out in the shade and run a hose over the fender and lightly sand with 2000 grit wet/dry sandpaper (I like Meguiars Unigirt finishing paper). Sand in ONE DIRECTION and do not under any circumstances use a circular motion. After your first pass, you should see that the upper parts of the paint ar dull with the crevices of the "peel" still shiny. Simply sand until the entire surface is dull. Its important to keep the water running on the part you're sanding as you sand it.
2.) Once the paint is good and level, use the 2500 grit paper to lightly wetsand over the areas you just leveled, this will help to minimize any sanding scratches and will make compounding easier.
3.) Use a rotary buffer with a foam pad and Rubbing Compound (I like 3M PerfectIT) to buff out the sanded area. Don't let the buffer hover on edges where the paint is thin and never let it rest in one place for too long as you can "burn" the paint. At this point you should have a nice gloss.
4.) Go the extra mile and grab some machine polish and (I like 3M 's machine glaze) and a mild foam pad and go to town shining up the fender.
5.) Protect it with whatever polymer/acrylic or wax (or even acrylic THEN wax) you prefer and admire your work
Just make sure you try this on some test panels before you hit the real car and if at any point the water dripping from the car changes from the "milky" color mentioned above to the color of the car stop because you've already gone too far into the paint and will prolly need it re-sprayed. This was real quickly typed, but hopefully it'll be of help to ya
-J
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