relentlesstech

When I did a tune-up today I noticed that my #3 plug had oil on the threads - I have been noticing a burnt oil smell over the past month, but assumed it was because I used 'generic' oil - The good news is that there is no water in the oil when I drained it, and there is no loss of power or gas mileage, so I am 99.9% sure it's not a blown head gasket - I am planning on replacing all the valve cover/well gaskets tomorrow, along with my PCV valve - My question is, if it turns out that the new gaskets and PCV valve do not solve the problem, what else could it be?

Former User

If you mean spark plug tube seals, then this should fix the problem.

relentlesstech

I have my fingers crossed - I've never taken a valve cover off before, so this ought to be interesting LOL - I know a few basics, such as RTV on the four side spots of the cover, 7.3 ft/lb of torque on the bolts (and 13 for the plugs), but is there anything else I need to know?

Also, is there an easy way to remove any oil that may still be in the wells?

ray87witha97

What motor do u have I have a f22b2 it did the same had to remove the rocker arm assembly to replace the orings between the head and rocker arm assembly and the orings on the valve cover to

relentlesstech

I have a D16Y7 (Non-VTECH)

ray87witha97

Looks pretty simple just the ones on the valve cover

marcelosm

There are some lower tower seals that leak oil into the spark plug tubes too but those are a bit harder to get to. You have to take off the rocker arm assembly to get to them. Replace the easy ones first and if they still get some on there then go for the bottom ones. Ericthecarguy on YouTube has a good video on how to do it. Search for oil on spark plugs Eric the car guy.

relentlesstech

EricTheCarGuy's videos are how I've been able to do the work on my car so far (Axles, control arms, ball joints) - I had already decided to do the 'easy' ones first, then if there was still a leak, I'd have no choice BUT to do the lowers as well

kwae

Don't sweat it, pretty easy fix, hardest part is keeping the valve cover gasket seated when you flip it over to install. Some liquid gasket, just a small amount on the four corners helps.

relentlesstech

The worst part is going to be doing it out in the snow LOL (I don't have access to a garage) - I also have to figure out how to put my new QuickStruts in as well - This car is a learning experience for me :-P

TomCat39

The easy way to discern is if there is oil all along the spark plug well (tube) then it's the top well seals (on the valve cover). If there is oil only on the bottom of the well, then it's the bottom well seals (under the rocker arms). And if you have oil on the electrode (spark/business) side of the spark plug then you have a whole different problem to be concerned with.

Off note, it looks like you have to loosen and or take off your timing belt to safely remove your rocker arms. Because you will be pulling the cam holders off there will be nothing to resist any tension of the timing belt. So if it's anything like the D15B7 (which I believe it is), you will need to pull your crank pulley off so you can get the timing belt cover off and access to the tensioner.

These might help you with the rocker arms on your D16Y7, pulled from the Y7 Factory Service Manual:

kwae

If it was me I would wait for a dry warm, not windy day. You don't want any dirt to get in there. From the sounds of it, you have some time. A little oil on the threads won't blow your engine...

relentlesstech