sweetcivic2005

I have a 92 hatch and I am not getting fuel into the car. I just changed the fuel pump and nothing. I dont understand it. The motor is a 94 ls and i just did the swap. Me and my buddy did everything right. Plz help not understanding why it wont get fuel. I can push start it to start then it just dies cuz there is not fuel.

Thanks alot plz help


Modified by sweetcivic2005 at 11:37 AM 8/2/2005

Luserkid

Does the fuel pump (not bump) prime? if not start checking fuses.

AlpineInstaller

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Luserkid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Does the fuel pump (not bump) prime? if not start checking fuses. </TD></TR></TABLE>


Check the fuel pump. Do you get voltage? Can you hear the pump operate? Check fuses.

sweetcivic2005

Ah yea pump my bad i am a bad speller. Anyways what you mean by voltage? The battery work. Its werid the car will go then somtime then i will turn it off for a while and it wont start? I dont understand it. What type of fuses should i check. How would that have to do when i give it gas and then it just puts and dies.

AlpineInstaller

So the car DOES start sometimes... When it starts, does it ALWAYS stall when you give it gas?

Check voltage: Get to your fuel pump, take a voltmeter (Multimeter), and make sure that when the ignition is in the "Run" position the pump reads 12V.

Fuses: Check ALL of your fuses. It is better to be safe then sorry. Start under the hood, and if everything checks out, check under the dash. And just because you find one, doesn't mean you shouldn't check the others. You can either use the "Fuse Puller" that come with your car, or needle nose pliers.

HeikDiesel

I bet you money your main relay is cracked around the dry solder joint. Pull your main relay out, its down by the hoop pop on the driver side of the car. Pull the backing off and check out all the solder joints on the back. If you look close enough, Im sure you will find a crack. Re-solder and your good to go. This happens a lot when it gets hot because electricity doesnt like heat, but will jump that crack when the resistance is low enough

sweetcivic2005

It starts then it doesnt. What you mean by there is a crack on the relay? How much does it cost to purchase a new one? So i get a voltage tester and i hook it up to the fuel pump and see if its getting power? It seems like the fuel pump doesnt even turn on.!! Thanks for all the replys keep them coming

philosofy1

a new main relay is about $60 at the dealership, also check all ground wires, make sure they are grounded, makes sure all harnesses are hooked up, check all the fuses.

ThatsMyEG

common on hondas main fuse relay..

B18C5-EH2

WHEE!

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1320931
Summers in full swing, and I see more and more "My car spins over, but won't start" topics here, and I expect that since summertime brings out the worst in electrical components for our Civics.
So you get in your car, try and start it, but it only spins over?

First of all these steps only apply for a car that has enough battery juice to power up the starter enough to spin the car over normally. If you've tried starting the car so many times that your battery is weak, find a jump box or cables and go from there.

The most common problem is the main fuel pump relay, and you do not have to do much to diagnose it.

1. Turn the key into the "on" position and watch for the check engine light to go out just as the third key chime beep beeps. As the light goes out you should hear a faint "clink" noise coming from under the dash on the driver's side (passenger side for EK Civics), near the hood release lever. If you hear no "clink" then you need a main relay. They cost maybe $60.00 new at Honda, and they are a snap to replace. If you're a cheap bastard and cannot afford a new one, it can be repaired with a soldering iron and some knowledge, but i'd just buy a new one.

So you hear the "clink" noise, but still no starting, eh?

Well now it's time to dig a bit deeper. you need to figure out if you're not getting spark or fuel. 99% of spinning over, but not starting problems are from either no fuel or fire. the other 1% is no compression, and that just isn't common.

1. Checking for spark.

Grab up a long screwdriver and pull one plug wire out of the cylinder. Stick the tip of the screw driver into the plug wire end far enough to make contact with the metal tab in the wire to the tip of the screw driver. Tilt the handle of the screwdriver so that you hold the shaft of the screwdriver near any metal surface - i use one of the valvecover hold down nuts. Have a friend (if you have any) spin the car over. If you see sparks between the shaft of the screwdriver and the other metal surface, then you have spark. If not, then you have a problem getting spark then.

2. If you have no spark then there are a few different parts that can cause this. *Usually* it is the ignition coil, loctaed inside your distributor. It is a little box with a spring sticking out of it with a goldish case around it, and it's held in with two phillps screws once you get your car and rotor out of the way. I don't know of any real way of checking one out of the car other than replacing it with a known good one. A lot of times the coil will have burn/flash marks on it if it's bad, or going bad. a new coil from honda is about $90.00.

3. The other common (but not as common as the coil) is the ignitor module. It is a flat plastic-looking piece inisde the distributor with a few tabs with wires hooked up to it. I believe it's also held in with a few screws. again I know of no visual cues that an ignitor is bad, so if you can get another, try it out. a new ignitor from Honda is also about $90.00.

4. Another blanket way to fix the no spark would be a good new distributor from http://www.distributorking.com. this way you get a new base with sensors, coil, ignitor, cap, rotor, etc. all for a little more than the cost of an ignitor or coil.

The last item that can cause spinning over, but not starting is the ignition switch pigtail assembly. When these go bad they typically allow the car to crank for a second, but then it shuts right back off. I diagnose these by simply cranking the car and backing off the key just enough to disengage the starter, but still be in the full "crank" position. If you let go of the key and it springs back into the normal position and the engine dies, you need a new ignition switch pigtail/electrical portion. do not confuse this with the entire ignition assembly with lock cylinder - it's just the electrical harness. These are pretty cheap, but a PITA to install.

Hope this helps some of you guys.

Now what if the main relay works, and you have spark, but still no starting?

Time to check for fuel, and it's easy.

Grab a 12mm wrench and loosen the banjo nut on top of your fuel filter, and have someone turn the key into the "on" position - he may not even have to try and spin the car over. If you get no fuel spray, then you are not getting fuel, and if the main relay is in fact working, it's time for a fuel pump.

The fuel pump is located in an access panel under your rear seat cushion. I personally would try and find a used Integra fuel pump or even a new one if you can afford the pricetag - aftermarket ones suck ***. I say Integra because it's an upgrade, especially if you can get a GS-R one.

HeikDiesel

good explanation

sweetcivic2005

Thanks for the help guys .

HeikDiesel

did you fix it?

sweetcivic2005

Going to have to buy a main relay.

HeikDiesel

Dont waste 60 bucks before you have to. Alteast pull it out and verify that the thing is cracked. And if I were you, just re solder. People told me not to do it but I did it about 2 months ago with no problems yet. No sense in blowin 60 bucks if you dont have to...thats a lot of beer for you and your friends. Hell Ill even take a 20 pack of bud light if I was right

berettagtz117

Grab my **** and squeeze it Sam! LOL WE will figure it out whenvever you *** is home and I can look @ it!