MrConti

Hello,
New here on the forums. I have a 92 EG Civic D15B7 engine, and As the title states, I have no spark and the fuel pump doesn't prime.
I've owned the car for about a month now, and when I first got it, there seemed to be no issues. About two weeks and it didn't want to start up right away. When it did run it was sputtery and when cold; tapping the accelerator in neutral the car would die out. When the car warmed up the sputter didn't go away. Me thinking the obvious, replaced the spark plugs, dizzy cap, ignition rotor, and spark plug wires. That problem stayed up to when it wouldn't start at all now. I replaced the fuel pump with a Walbro 255 lph and replaced the fuel filter thinking it was a bad pump. Still doesn't start.
I've read through countless forums on different sites and nothing seems to work. I've tested the Ignition coil, 15.8 ohm on +/- and 0.9 ohm on coil to +. I've tested the Main relay wire doing the jumper wire to 1-7 // 5-7 // 8-7, no prime. Wire directly from the battery and it primes. Main relay clicks fast twice as normal, and then a third two seconds later, as normal; relay under the hood is good, fuses are all good. The CEL doesn't come on at all while the car is in ''on'' but all other lights and electrical come on. Checked grounds, and cleaned, battery is brand new. I've came down to thinking it's the ECU, which I hope is not the issue. Car is my daily and I need it up and running soon.

mk378

First thing to do with any 5th gen that cranks but won't start is pull the main relay and resolder it, unless that has already been done.

Check the ground wires on the thermostat. Get a schematic of the car and check that all the ECU power pins are powered, and all the grounds grounded. The 5 volt bus from the ECU to the sensors needs to be on with the key on.

Check the CEL bulb and wiring by grounding the CEL wire at the ECU, light should come on. If the ECU is getting power and ground but not turning the CEL on for the bulb test, it is bad.

MrConti

The main relay was good on solders. I inspected the circuit board and all the solder points looked good. I'll pull it apart and see what I can do. I'm no professional at soldering so I hope I don't mess it up. Push comes to shove I'll buy a new one.

As for thermo- ground I cleaned and tightened it all back down. I'll check on the CEL, and see about the ECU also if I can figure it out.

Also when double looking I found a black wire on the power wire from the fuel pump that wasn't supposed to be there. It led to spot #11 on the fuse box under the dash ?? It says un used so I'm confused on that.

mk378

A previous owner tried to hotwire the pump. That really suggests the main relay is bad. It is hard to tell if the solder is good by looking even for an expert, so just re-solder.

MrConti

Alright, I had my buddy re-solder the relay, he is good at that stuff and had the proper solder remover things; after install nothing changed, and I double checked on the signal wire to the fuel pump after removing the ''jerry-rigged'' wiring. The fuel pump is getting 0.002 volts when ignition is turned to ''ON'' so I'm assuming the wire is frayed out somewhere because it IS getting reading? just not a 12v like it should be ?
Still trying to figure out the no spark issue as well as this..

mk378

What does the check engine light do when you turn key on but don't crank? It should come on then go out corresponding to the main relay clicking and the fuel pump priming.

MrConti

After a quick examination of the light itself I replaced the light just for safety, and it still doesn't come on. After I unplugged the gauge cluster and put everything back together the car made this weird grunt sounding noise, hoping the pump just kicked I tried to turn it over, but nothing.
CEL doesn't turn on at all when turned to "ON" from ignition.

mk378

Do the "oil" and "battery" lights come on?

CEL not coming on at all means the ECU is not getting power or ground, or the ECU is bad.

MrConti

yes all other dash lights come on, and the ground is the one on the thermo- housing correct? I've cleaned that one up and tightened it down. I unplugged the ECU to try and ''reset'' it, but still nothing.

MrConti

Well, dropped the hammer and bought a new ECU. That didn't even fix it.. the ECU that WAS in the car was the wrong one.. (thanks previous owner) p28 was in the car. Now has a refurbished p06 like it deserves. Unfortunately the car still doesn't run. So I'm stumped completely. I do not want to go to Honda but it is starting to look like I have no other options.. anymore last minute checks just in case I'm skipping over something? 😓

mk378

The CEL still does not come on at all when you turn key on but don't crank?

Get a schematic.

Ground the CEL wire at the ECU, it should come on then that shows the bulb works.

Turn key on with ECU plugged in probe all the power wires to the ECU make sure they are powered probe all the ground wires they should have only a very small voltage to body ground. The 5 volt bus to the TPS MAP and other sensors should be 5 volts.

A P28 can have jumpers moved inside to reprogram it so it will work exactly like a P06 with a non VTEC engine. It is sort of the universal ECU.

MrConti

Car is at Honda now, unfortunately before the post loaded back up I took it. I was too stressed out about the fact that I didn't know what was wrong so I'm letting them run a diagnostic and see what's up. I'll post up when I finally find out what's wrong Monday. Thanks for the information and help though!! Was much appreciated to see people will still help.

MrConti

I have had the civic back for some time now and it came down to be two cut wires behind the dash; ECU wires. Unfortunately it cost a bit because they had to have the car for about a week doing troubleshooting and diagnostics. They replaced the dizzy, tried to tell me it was the ECU and Main relay, I corrected that because I already bought them. told them to do further investigation on wiring because they claimed that no voltage going to ECU means the ECU is bad -___-.... I almost didn't want them to keep the car but after they did further inspection they found the two wires and gave me a big discount due to their incorrect assumption. So.. Car is up and running! Now I just need to do a hub bearing replacement. I thank you for the assistance; and will hope that people will see this thread and look deeper into their wiring to save about a thousand dollars at Honda.