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So I recently bought someone else's project civic. The backup lights don't work. I have replaced fuses and the switch. Still nothing. I'm suffering from an acl tear and I can't really tear the whole interior out, but I need this car to get to the doctor so here's what I was thinking as a short term solution.
Anyone care to give me some advice?
Assuming you don't have any other wire running to those lights, it would work. And it even looks like you are following the Honda method of ground driven switching.
As a short term fix and all other wiring to the Back Up Lights disconnected, I believe it should work fine.
In the time it takes to jury rig something you could make a proper diagnosis and repair.
Manual or automatic?
If manual the switch is on top of the transmission, near the bell housing. The only other electrical part on the manual transmission is the speed sensor, which is behind the engine over where the axles go in.
If automatic the switch is inside the car at the base of the shift lever.
The switch is in the hot side of the circuit. One end of the switch should be live all the time with the key on. I think it is fed from a fuse under the dash, the same one as the turn signals(*). The other end goes live when you shift to reverse.
If that checks out, another common problem is that the wire from the body of the car to the lights on the hatch or trunk lid will break where it flexes every time the lid is opened. That of course only makes sense if your model has the backup lights on the moving part.
(*) Pro tip: The fuse under the hood labelled "BACK UP" is not it. That is power all the time to back up the RAM memory in the clock, radio, and ECU.
Ok. So to date I have replaced all the fuses and the back up switch. Still nothing. I do unfortunately have the model with the lights on the trunk lid. I don't understand though because unless I am wrong that bulb also functions as the turn signal and they work fine....
Ok. So to date I have replaced all the fuses and the back up switch. Still nothing. I do unfortunately have the model with the lights on the trunk lid. I don't understand though because unless I am wrong that bulb also functions as the turn signal and they work fine....
I do not agree that the white backup bulb operates as an orange turn signal.
The reverse lights should always have a dedicated bulb and a white lens. Are these the factory lights or ebay weird stuff?
I think the 2 door coupe and 4 door sedan have the same general arrangement. The reverse lights are the top bulbs on the inner lights that are attached to the trunk lid.
The reverse lights should always have a dedicated bulb and a white lens. Are these the factory lights or ebay weird stuff?
I think the 2 door coupe and 4 door sedan have the same general arrangement. The reverse lights are the top bulbs on the inner lights that are attached to the trunk lid.
X2
I was referencing the color of the lens not the bulb.
Reverse lights are white, turn signals orange and brake lights red.
The reverse lights should always have a dedicated bulb and a white lens. Are these the factory lights or ebay weird stuff?
I think the 2 door coupe and 4 door sedan have the same general arrangement. The reverse lights are the top bulbs on the inner lights that are attached to the trunk lid.
Upon further inspection the reverse light is solely wired into that slot. I have removed the wiring harness and can't seem to find a visible break. I don't have access to a multimeter. This whole thing is frankly frustrating the **** outta me...
The wires usually look OK on the outside, but the copper inside is broken. You need a multimeter to work on any electrical problem. The one that Harbor Freight often gives away or sells for less than $10 is adequate.
As previously asked, is this manual transmission or automatic? The wire harness connectors are different between the two when they run from the switch to the rear.
So I recently bought someone else's project civic. The backup lights don't work. I have replaced fuses and the switch. Still nothing. I'm suffering from an acl tear and I can't really tear the whole interior out, but I need this car to get to the doctor so here's what I was thinking as a short term solution.
Anyone care to give me some advice?
Your diagram is not correct even as a short term solution. There are separate ground sources for the respective back up lights. The switch on your Honda provides power (+) to the back up lights.
You probably have an open (break) in the wiring providing power to the back up lights. Please answer whether this is manual or automatic; I would assume manual since that switch is easier to replace than the switch on an auto; but, don't want to give irrelevant info.
Your diagram is not correct even as a short term solution.
If you disconnected the lights from the harness and ran your own wire for both poles of the reverse lights, why would a switch, 12V and ground not work as a short term solution? Filament bulbs don't care the direction of current.
I did take liberty and not short the battery to ground like it appears to be in the diagram though.....
Even though I sort of questioned as a short term, why be concerned about having reverse lights for a doctors trip as long as all the others are working.....
If you disconnected the lights from the harness and ran your own wire for both poles of the reverse lights, why would a switch, 12V and ground not work as a short term solution? Filament bulbs don't care the direction of current.
It would work if you rewire both 12V power and ground. Since separate ground wires are already going to both separate bulbs, why would you disconnect those wires and reverse the wiring? Easier to just add a new 12V power wire and switch.
It would work if you rewire both 12V power and ground. Since separate ground wires are already going to both separate bulbs, why would you disconnect those wires and reverse the wiring? Easier to just add a new 12V power wire and switch.
I see what you are getting at.
I don't have my ETM with me so I am not able to verify and could only assumed it was ground switched like most items in the 5th gen. So I could only advise on the full rewire which is what I suspected OP was indicating and asking.
I personally would find the break in the original harness and fix that but I figured if OP did not want to proceed that way, it's their prerogative.
I don't have my ETM with me so I am not able to verify and could only assumed it was ground switched like most items in the 5th gen. So I could only advise on the full rewire which is what I suspected OP was indicating and asking.
I personally would find the break in the original harness and fix that but I figured if OP did not want to proceed that way, it's their prerogative.
It is a manual transmission. I need the reverse lights to get it registered so that I can drive it. I can't rip out all the interior and wiring looking for a break. I have one leg at the moment and no one to help me.
It is a manual transmission. I need the reverse lights to get it registered so that I can drive it. I can't rip out all the interior and wiring looking for a break. I have one leg at the moment and no one to help me.
Exactly, it's your prerogative. Didn't say it was an unreasonable prerogative.
Tech8 provided you the easiest solution for a temp fix. The switch is on the hot side. So with a digital multi-meter you can find which pole is the ground and just run a hot wire and switch to the other pole of the lights, leaving the stock ground in place.
So I recently bought someone else's project civic. The backup lights don't work. I have replaced fuses and the switch. Still nothing. I'm suffering from an acl tear and I can't really tear the whole interior out, but I need this car to get to the doctor so here's what I was thinking as a short term solution.
Anyone care to give me some advice?
Yeah, thats the wrong diagram to be following. Please download and consult the correct FSM for your vehicle.
Very simple thing to do is pull the bulb out, turn 180 degree, put it in and test.
O.o
Ummmm, how is that going to test anything? It's the 1156 Symmetrical (BA15S) bulb. Two semetrical pins for one pole and the bottom center contact for the other pole. Turning the bulb 180 degrees doesn't change a single contact point.
And if it's the Asymmetrical (BAY15S) bulb you can't spin it 180 degrees......
Exactly, it's your prerogative. Didn't say it was an unreasonable prerogative.
Tech8 provided you the easiest solution for a temp fix. The switch is on the hot side. So with a digital multi-meter you can find which pole is the ground and just run a hot wire and switch to the other pole of the lights, leaving the stock ground in place.
Less wiring to do for your short term workaround.
Ok. So my husband usually does this kind of thing. But he's in the army and not here right now. So at the risk of sounding like more of an idiot than I already do...could someone just draw it out for me so I could see it?
Please buy a voltmeter. A few simple tests will locate the problem so you can get the stock system working again.
I'm going to reiterate the part where I'm on crutches with no car. I have to hobble myself everywhere...The closest store is a mile away. Could you crutch two miles? I'm just looking for a way to fix it for right now. Curse the factory wiring...
First you could have lost the ground to the trunk lid. Make sure that the brake lights on the trunk lid operate at full brightness. Turn the light switch to the first click. Put something heavy on the brake pedal and go back and look. The brake lights (all 5) should be on. The license lights should be on. If that passes, turn the lights out so the battery doesn't run down.
If that is OK then the problem is in the hot side. Get a long piece of wire. Splice it into the the backup light circuit (green wire with black stripe) at one of the lights. Temporarily bring the other end to under the hood and connect it to the battery (+). The backup lights should light. If you just want a manual setup, run the wire through the middle of the car and cut a switch into it. It is a very very good practice to put a fuse in line near the battery any time you tap power off of the battery. Otherwise the wire will catch on fire if there is a short.
Ummmm, how is that going to test anything? It's the 1156 Symmetrical (BA15S) bulb. Two semetrical pins for one pole and the bottom center contact for the other pole. Turning the bulb 180 degrees doesn't change a single contact point.
And if it's the Asymmetrical (BAY15S) bulb you can't spin it 180 degrees......
Similar issue with the 3rd brake light during inspection, guy replaced it with a new bulb but it didn't lit up. I just pulled it out and 180 it and put it back in and it worked.
Just now realizing that these are the circle bulbs so my suggestion probably doesn't work, but its worth a shot.
Also please check to see if this car was originally an automatic before.
06-27-2017, 11:03 AM
94 civic backup light trouble
