CandyPaintBoost

ok this is going to be a long post. please bare with me just want to give as mush info as i can, so i can get the best answer/ help. thanks you in advance.

ok heres the problem. i got no spark, no fuel pump and lights on dash dont work. radio wroks hazards work?

heres what happend. i was driving my tuned lsV Turbo for about a week with no problems untill 2 days ago, i was driving home on the freeway when my car just shut down on me. i thought it was gas cuz the needle for my gas acts funny meaning it could say i have a half of tank but it could be more or less then a half of tank and vice a versa neways. i waited a few mins on freeway car started so i diped to the gas station and filled up. after that i tryed to start the car and it wouldnt start. so i called a tow truck and right befor he got there i tryed to start it up and it started so i drove home.
next day i drove to work and back no problem but after i came home i was going to go to a friends house but car died on freeway again, this time it wouldnt start again no matter how long i waited. we had it towed home.
we got it home poped the hood and started to look for the problem. when i cut the car on it started for a sec then died. after it died this time when we tryed to turn it over again we had no lights on dash no fule pump and no spark.
what we tryed was checking all fues under hood and under dash there good,switched the main relay and i tryed a different ecu and nothing.my distributor is good and looks good cap n roter im trying to get a distributor to see if it is that but a few people say cant be must be electrical but something simple like a wire split or disconnected right under your nose.
i dont know please help help help
thanks again and sorry for the long dear jhon letter lol....

Former User

Sounds like a bad ignition switch.

Murk 'EM

try replacing your distributer and or your cam sensor.. the cam sensor is in there and if the pcm doesnt see a cam signal it wont prime the fuel pump
how do you know your not getting spark? how did you check?

CandyPaintBoost

i checked the ignition switchand it fine. any other suggestions. tanks for the help.

im trying to borrow a distributor befor replaceing it just in case mines is good still and i think it is. you say change the cam sensor and its in there? i dont know what that is can you explane more. thanks for the help.

Murk 'EM

the cmp or camshaft position sensor is apart of the distributer assembly
it does go bad and is directly related to the fuel pump just ceck if your getting voltage there

this is what its suposed to look like how ever they can very but they are on the distributer

Former User

I think you are talking about the crankshaft position sensor (CKP) in the distributor.

A bad distributor sensor would not explain the lack of dash warning lights when trying to start the engine. How did you test the ignition switch? Keep in mind that you might need to test the switch several different times as the problem is intermittent.

Murk 'EM

im talking about the position sensor in the distributor.. that is directly related to the fuel and spark
the dash lights arnt the reason his car isnt starting.. its not starting cause its not getting fuel and spark wich pointed me to his distributor

Former User

The fact that the dash warning lights failed to light when the engine would not start is a hint that intermittently the ignition switch may fail to supply power to the IG1 circuit in ON(II) and possibly ON(III). This would also result in a no spark and no fuel condition.

Murk 'EM

ok so theirs 2 reasons so far it wouldent get fuel and spark but the lights arent the problem are they?
its an indicator of a problem but not THE problem

Former User

I didn't say that the lack of dash lights would prevent spark or fuel. I was simply trying to take all of the facts into account. The facts are (1) no spark, (2) no fuel, and (3) no dash lights. A bad CKP sensor could account for (1) and (2) but not (3). On the other hand, a bad ignition switch could account for (1), (2), and (3). That's why I favor the idea of a bad ignition switch. Alternatively, the dash lights and no start could be separate issues. In this case, a bad CKP sensor (as you suggest), a bad thermostat ground, or a bad ECU could be the problem.

Murk 'EM

yes.. im just giving my opinion it could be a hundred things im working off of experiance here i had the same problem (how ever i dont remember if the dash lights were on or not) i replaced the CKP and it started right up

Former User

And I thought your idea about the CKP sensor was a reasonable suggestion. I just had a different idea, which may be incorrect if the OP properly tested the ignition switch by looking for a potential intermittent problem.

Murk 'EM

to the OP how did you test your ignition switch?

CandyPaintBoost

well to be honest im not sure if I checked it right but I went to this web site http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ignit...tch/index.html and it showed me these pictures on the site and first thing I noticed on my ignition switch was there was no melted solder. then on the site it has this pictures of pitting and no pitting switches, what pitting and no pitting means I don’t know. but now im guessing that I have to check it over again because I checked this other site http://www.acuravigorclub.com/Timely...mely1004-2.htm and it says " Using a burnishing tool or a very fine file, dress the contacts until they're smooth". you tell me what you think about my ignition switch from my description. it had groves, black stuff on all the sliver things. it looked like grease or pitting I guess don’t know but I wiped it clean with a rag and put back together and tried to start car with screw driver and nothing. it kind of looked like the 5th picture in the first site I gave you but black stuff ever were? also looked like the second picture on the second site I gave you but black stuff on the lil sliver things allot so I wiped it clean and try to start with a screw driver and nothing.
im pretty sure your going to tell me I did it wrong, so could you tell me how you would check it. I don’t want to drop my car at a shop that could possible charge me 100's of $ for something simple. thanks guys for all the help it greatly appreciated

Former User

What year Civic?

Go to this link to see a diagram that shows how to test the ignition switch of 92-95 Civics.

CandyPaintBoost

its a 94 hactch. ok im check it out and try it when i go home. after i try ill let you know what happened. i hope its it man. thanks for all help.

Murk 'EM

definatly not suposed to have corrosion or pitting on the pins clean them with emery paper may take a little longer but its definatly better then a file or corse sand paper

CandyPaintBoost

Problem solved dude all this time it was a dam alarm relay, it burnt out. I got a two way pager alarm incase your wondering.
I don’t know how but I guess its called the starter kill relay or something like that its under the dash and tapped it to something, I don’t know.
I had this electrician guy come over and look at my car, took him 15 min to find the problem. we cut that connection restored it to normal and bang everything back to candy paint boostn lol.
now im going to go to the place and have them do my alarm over cuz its still in warranty. Thank GOD its over. he only charged me 10$ and a , I gave him 20 and a 6 pack of new castle. im glad he was an honest person cuz he could have tried to ripped me off and charged me an arm and a leg lol. even though I was watching him I didn’t know what he was doing.
ill put a pic of the burnt relay and were it was located for feature reference. never know might happen to some one else.

Thanks to the two guys on here trying to help me get my car back on the road it was greatly appreciated