91integra91

So i upgraded my dx brakes to ex fronts and si rear discs and now i have no pressure on the brake pedal.. i changed the pads and rotors on all four and upgraded the master cylinder to a 7/8ths from the 13/16.. we bled all of them already but the guy said that i might need to get them "master bled" at brake masters. does that make sense to anyone?? any help is appreciated

Turbolsvtech

i had this similar problem on my hatch going with rear discs which port did you bleed from??? i needed to bleed from the right rear to get all the air out of the lines before my pedal was stiff

EJ1_CRIS_909

Did you bench bleed the master cylinder?

91integra91

honestly i was just the tool passer.. it looked like he bled from all four calipers

91integra91

according to him he bled it from the master cylinder also...

91integra91

my e brake only worked enough to barely get me to stop with the help of engine brakes

91integra91

is it possible that all four calipers are ****ed??

Lugzilla

It could be the brake pistons aren't fully retracted and there is still a tiny bit of air trapped inside. Had this problem with a friends Integra he tried bleeding the lines numerous times, I ended up using a c-clamp to push the piston all the way in, bled the lines again and finally got all the air out.
When you put in a new MC, it is imperative that you bench bleed it before you install it on the car otherwise you're wasting your time.

91integra91

I used the 7/8ths master cylinder from an ex that bolted on to the stock master cylinder.. is this ok or do i need the 7/8ths from an si with the appropriate brake booster? also i still have the stock prop valve but ive read that it should still work..

91integra91

i still have this problem! the calipers are not seized, all correct bleeding procedures were followed but there is still not enough pressure to stop the car! Do i have to run the 15/16 master cylinder??

honda fossil

are all the bleeder screw pointing up ? cuz if there pointing down you will never get all the air out....

honda fossil

and if ther pointing down you most likly have the calipers on the wrong side

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

Bleeding Process

1. Begin at the corner furthest from the driver and proceed in order toward the driver. (Right rear, left rear, right front, left front.) While the actual sequence is not critical to the bleed performance it is easy to remember the sequence as the farthest to the closest. This will also allow the system to be bled in such a way as to minimize the amount of potential cross-contamination between the new and old fluid.
2. Locate the bleeder screw at the rear of the caliper body (or drum brake wheel cylinder.) Remove the rubber cap from the bleeder screw – and don't lose it!
3. Place the box-end wrench over the bleeder screw. An offset wrench works best – since it allows the most room for movement.
4. Place one end of the clear plastic hose over the nipple of the bleeder screw.
5. Place the other end of the hose into the disposable bottle.
6. Place the bottle for waste fluid on top of the caliper body or drum assembly. Hold the bottle with one hand and grasp the wrench with the other hand.
7. Instruct the assistant to "apply." The assistant should pump the brake pedal three times, hold the pedal down firmly, and respond with "applied." Instruct the assistant not to release the brakes until told to do so.
8. Loosen the bleeder screw with a brief ¼ turn to release fluid into the waste line. The screw only needs to be open for one second or less. (The brake pedal will "fall" to the floor as the bleeder screw is opened. Instruct the assistant in advance not to release the brakes until instructed to do so.)
9. Close the bleeder screw by tightening it gently. Note that one does not need to pull on the wrench with ridiculous force. Usually just a quick tug will do.
10. Instruct the assistant to "release" the brakes. Note: do NOT release the brake pedal while the bleeder screw is open, as this will suck air back into the system!
11. The assistant should respond with "released."
12. Inspect the fluid within the waste line for air bubbles.
13. Continue the bleeding process (steps 11 through 16) until air bubbles are no longer present. Be sure to check the brake fluid level in the reservoir after bleeding each wheel! Add fluid as necessary to keep the level at the MAX marking. (Typically, one repeats this process 5-10 times per wheel when doing a ‘standard' bleed.)
14. Move systematically toward the driver – right rear, left rear, right front, left front - repeating the bleeding process at each corner. Be sure to keep a watchful eye on the brake fluid reservior! Keep it full!
15. When all four corners have been bled, spray the bleeder screw (and any other parts that were moistened with spilled or dripped brake fluid) with brake cleaner and wipe dry with a clean rag. (Leaving the area clean and dry will make it easier to spot leaks through visual inspection later!) Try to avoid spraying the brake cleaner DIRECTLY on any parts made of rubber or plastic, as the cleaner can make these parts brittle after repeated exposure.
16. Test the brake pedal for a firm feel. (Bleeding the brakes will not necessarily cure a "soft" or "mushy" pedal – since pad taper and compliance elsewhere within the system can contribute to a soft pedal. But the pedal should not be any worse than it was prior to the bleeding procedure!)
17. Be sure to inspect the bleeder screws and other fittings for signs of leakage. Correct as necessary.
18. Properly dispose of the used waste fluid as you would dispose of used motor oil. Important: used brake fluid should NEVER be poured back into the master cylinder reservoir!

danthemang3

doesn't sound like you ever bench bled the master cylinder. go to the parts store and get a bench bleeding kit. your going to have to pull the lines from the master cylinder and attach the bench bleeding kit. fill the master cylinder with fluid put the hoses from the kit inside the reservoir and slowly pump the brakes till you don't see any more bubbles. once that is good re-attach your brake lines and bleed all of your brake from the calipers.