Ef4doorwagon

Ive searchrd alot people just say " check your iacv, clean it"
Ive cleaned with carb cleaner, ivJumped it to my battery and it clicks... ive adjusted my idle, adjusted my timing, made sure no leaks. Also tried a diff iacv, didnt help.

Anyways, my car seems to want more air, my manifold i mean. Because if i disconnect a hose, creating an air leak, my idle sots at about 750-900( changes)
But that. Extra air might make my fuel go down, the air to fuel mixture will be unbalanced i believe.

I dont know what to do? My car died today, it idled so low then shut off, but i turned it back on right away.

Need help with this, any help is appreciated

Setup: z6 head, manifold, tb, obd1 converted, p28 stock, b2 block.

Fliptard

is there a FICV under the throttle body? it has 2 small coolant hoses on it, it may need adjusted. You can also screw the idle screw out and see if it raises your idle

Former User

88 Civic?

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Nope, sounds like OP has a '79 Coupe Deville.

Ef4doorwagon

Nvm figured it out,
@Ron you can delete this if youd like, yeah its an 89 civic, but with a z6 head and ecu, basically making it a z6, so i thought i could post here.

But i got it to function correctly, for now.

PrettyMuchBoned

How'd you fix?

crazyhouse2011

Posted in wrong subforum

Ef4doorwagon

As obvious as it may seem, im a novice at car stuff.... and no one ever told me that, when you loosen or tighten the adjusting screw on the tb, it CHANGES the ignition timing.

Wish someone could have told me that, i barely realized it today when messing with the screw, i pretty much kept loosening it, little by little, and then checking mu ignition timing with my timing light, and lined it up perfectly with the marks at the crank and lower cover.

It idles perfect, and takes off perfect. Love my honda now.

HondaPartsHero

It doesn't change ignition timing per se but your car does have to idle at certain rpms to accurately check and adjust timing. How did you adjust idle before?

Ef4doorwagon

I adjusted it, by the screw, like i tried unplugging the iacv and turning the screw to raise idle. Then i would test drive and my timing would be off, and i thought my dizzy was loose causing the timing to move... now i finally realized that moving the idle screw moves the ignition timing.

All those wrote ups on how to adjust idle via screw, should mention that when you tighten or loosen, it moves your ignition timing. That would be helpful to other people that had a hard time with this, like me hah.

TomCat39

Like was said, you have to have your idle set correctly to set ignition timing.

So if anything you follow the set idle procedure, then you reset ignition timing. Sounds like you are doing the opposite. But more than likely you are just undoing what you originally did so put it back to where it was before you started tinkering with it.

Ef4doorwagon

@Tom does that mean, adjust idle while iacv plug is off, then set to like 600, and shut car off and plug it back and reset ecu?

Then let it idle for like 10 mins( i did the following as im typing this), itll idle hunt...

Then jump the service connector, and adjust ignition timing?

I have to keep fighting this dumb idle, i think my screw moved as it was warming up this morning. Got home, did the procedure above, it idled perfect at 750, i thought i beat it finally. Then i shut car of then on my way out, it startrd fluctuating for a little and idles low ish, and my timing is off, my car doesnt have the power it should have.

I know because of my setup, my ignition timing will be off half a tooth or 4.75°, onlyway it lines perfectly is if i loosen the screw, but then the ecu tries to fight it, and ends up idle hunting.

Im doing something wrong, and i destroyed my adjustable cam gear, so i have to use stock.

TomCat39

Being it's a D16Z6 head, I'm assuming you are also using the Z6 Intake Manifold so I believe you would be using the 92-95 FSM idle setting procedure which I'm posting below. After you do the whole 9 yards, then yeah you'd do your ignition timing from everything I understand.



Being you are going to be half a tooth off I think you can only get close to proper ignition timing and the dizzy will be twisted to one of the ends.


So you have the idle set procedure once you figure out your idle hunt problem that NotAracist has clarified has to be fixed first. Thanks NotARacist.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

If it's idle hunting, you can't properly set base idle OR ignition timing - you need to fix that issue first.

Ef4doorwagon

Mans thats a really detailed pic, what manual is that from? I have a haynes and it lacks good detailed pics...

Also i think thats where i messedup, after i took off the 2p plug from iacv, i set the idle like at 600 i believe, and your post, Tom, said to set at 420, uunfortunately i dont have a tach, is that used to precisely check rpm speed?

TomCat39

Helms Manual > Haynes Manual

Ef4doorwagon

Are there links to download certain pages off the helms

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

It's also commonly referred to as the Factory Service Manual. Sharing illegal files is a no-no here, but Google has no such qualms.

Ef4doorwagon

Ohh didntknow.

Ef4doorwagon

Hey tom, i followed the procedure exact, and everything checked out perfectly, idled at 750. Then with head lights jumped to 800, with heater like also 800, then after i turned off the stuff, and pressed the gas pedal and let go,it idled at 1k, then idle hunted slightly between 800-1000. Was it because the iacv didnt clear? I did pull the fuse for 30 sec, but it didnt delete, going to try it by dc the neg term on battery. But incase it still fluctuates on my drive to work, any other suggestions?

Btw i dont have leaks, if i put my hand over tb, car dies.