BauleyCivic

Searched a bit...but information wasn't quite what i was looking for...

I'm looking at doing either a mini me d16z6 head on a d15b7 block, or to just order an entire JDM D15 longblock from Hmotorsonline. I kinda wanna do the mini me, because I've read it yields more power and I like taking motors apart . I keep reading about a vtec activation switch, but couldnt this just be solved with a P28? What besides the head itself and proper gaskets would I need to put a USDM d16z6 head onto a USDM OBD1 d15b7? Sorry for the n00bish question in advance...

orange.honda

actually thats the jist of it. except for the t belt that matches the head and you should probably use the intake and exhaust manis for the head. you should run the highest octane pump gas you can bc of higher c/r. and you may have some over heating issues. but thats it.

BauleyCivic

well, i read some more...and heres what i got...for the z6 head i'll need

D16Z6 Head - Complete with distributor, cam, cam gear, valve cover, etc
D16Z6 or Y8 Head Gasket
P28 ECU
All manifold and TB gaskets
Stock D15 intake manifold, TB, Exhaust manifold...

Anything really to do with wiring? and what do I need to do as far as an extra oil line is concerned ( i know this is a major issue with LSVTEC...is it a concern with a mini me?)

EDIT: The car has been fed 93 octane gas its entire life, it doesnt burn oil, and i've never had any overheating or oil leaking issues before

t0p_sh0tta

No oil lines are needed. D-Series blocks are the same.

smnowell

I am friends with BauleyCivic and I am going to be helping him out with whatever decision he decides to make. As far as the mini-me swap is concerned is it really just as simple as swapping heads (obviously there are wiring issues which I have no problem doing)? I am a big B-series guy, so me and him are trying to gather as much info as possible for the mini-me swap. Anyone have any good links or write-ups for this particular swap?

orange.honda

these are pretty damn good. really helpfull

http://crx.honda-perf.org/arti....html
http://www.geocities.com/chacofgs/swap.html
http://www.geocities.com/c_rexboy/minime.html

kadburry

i did a mini-me to my car and you will need a vx timing belt...also you'll need to take the oil jet that is between cylinder 2 and 3 out because the head already has it

BauleyCivic

anything else?

d357r0y

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=474890

Spade

Nice to see the information getting around.

1 thing I want to add.

High octane fuel does not burn complete unless you are running high compression. You do not even need 91 octane unless you are running a 10:1 compression ratio or higher.

So, to get MORE POWER and a better burn, run 87 octane on 9.6:1 or lower compression engines. And again this is on stock engines, if any power adder is applied higher octane fuel is required, but only then.

oldskool_rex

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kadburry &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i did a mini-me to my car and you will need a vx timing belt...also you'll need to take the oil jet that is between cylinder 2 and 3 out because the head already has it </TD></TR></TABLE>

Heh, I was just gunna say that....

The tbelt is a 14400-P08-004. P08 is the engine code for the JDM D15 VTEC. You should see some good power with this setup. I am currently running the same setup in my CX and it is quick. I recently added and APEX turbo kit running around 6 psi. With the cat still there it is really nice Can't wait to intercool and remove the cat...

Mini-me supporter!

Oh, it is also recommended by Honda that when going from the Compiste Head gasket to the metal Z6/Y8 one that you get new head bolts too. I would not convert to stud or anything, but the bulletin does recommend using the OEM PM3's from a Z6 motor.

IS3Fifty

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Spade &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nice to see the information getting around.

1 thing I want to add.

[RED]High octane fuel does not burn complete unless you are running high compression. You do not even need 91 octane unless you are running a 10:1 compression ratio or higher.[/RED]

So, to get MORE POWER and a better burn, run 87 octane on 9.6:1 or lower compression engines. And again this is on stock engines, if any power adder is applied higher octane fuel is required, but only then.</TD></TR></TABLE>

spades right....this isnt a built ITR motor with ports, polishing, well developed block and head, and 13.1:1 comp.

BauleyCivic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oldskool_rex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Oh, it is also recommended by Honda that when going from the Compiste Head gasket to the metal Z6/Y8 one that you get new head bolts too. I would not convert to stud or anything, but the bulletin does recommend using the OEM PM3's from a Z6 motor.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Alright cool...

another thing guys...I am still on my stock clutch...and the car has 150,000 miles on it. The clutch still grabs good and everything...will I need to get a new OEM clutch / upgrade it if I do the z6/y8 head? Will the increase in power be too much for the clutch and wear it completely away?

Spade

Clutches are the same....well at least the 97 CX and EX have the same clutch.

My answer....nope. Not until that thing fails. Or you want a better grab.

BauleyCivic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Spade &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Clutches are the same....well at least the 97 CX and EX have the same clutch.

My answer....nope. Not until that thing fails. Or you want a better grab.</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks spade...sorry to keep wh0ring you out of info...

now my thing is working with a y8 vs z6 head...now if i can find a cheap bare head...can i just move everything over from the d15b7 head (manifold, distributor, etc) over to the z6 head to make it work? I know the y8 manifold and throttle body will yield some nice gains, but for the time being if i can just find a head will that work?

also with wiring...is a p28 all I need? will that negate the need for a vtec activator?

IS3Fifty

As long as you have a Vtec ecu and Vtec soleniod,sensor, and wiring you will be fine. Are you planning on doing any block work?? If you looking for added comp, why not go with larger rods and high comp pistons?? Are you shaving your head gasket??

BauleyCivic

i'm just lookin for a little boost in power...the setup i'm anticipating will be high 10's with a y8, and I don't really feel like streeting more than that for the time being

EDIT: will the b7 IM fit on the y8? if I do a y8 will i need the whole manifold/TB assembly?

Spade

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BauleyCivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">now my thing is working with a y8 vs z6 head...now if i can find a cheap bare head...can i just move everything over from the d15b7 head (manifold, distributor, etc) over to the z6 head to make it work? I know the y8 manifold and throttle body will yield some nice gains, but for the time being if i can just find a head will that work?

also with wiring...is a p28 all I need? will that negate the need for a vtec activator?</TD></TR></TABLE>

You will need to add wires and also get the P28 ECU. That will eliminate the need for a VTEC activator/RPM switch.

You cannot swap out your distributor. The key for the cam is different. Yes, you can swap the manifolds.

BauleyCivic

thanks...if anyone has anything to add please feel free...i need all the help i can get