immrtaltchnq

does anyone know much aboiut mini me motors
i have one amd imf debating putting it in
and building it for a while jsut to have fun with

FalkenSiR

mini me = oem sohc vtec, if done right. End of deal.

immrtaltchnq

so it would be a fun motor to mess with and build a little?
and do you think it would be worth it ot put it in for a little?
jsut maybe put a few internals and toy around

lonefuzzy79

Define worth it.
Will it be really fast, no. Will it be kinda fast, no. Will it be a MAD dorifto JDM tizzite VTECH powa hizzouse? no.

But it will be moderatly quicker than what you have now if you do it right and run it with the correct ecu.

immrtaltchnq

im not expecting it to be super fast
i jsut wanna mess around with it and put some internals in it
and i was lookin at itbs for it
just because no one around here has those and i like em

Plum_civicEK

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by immrtaltchnq &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">does anyone know much aboiut mini me motors
i have one amd imf debating putting it in
and building it for a while jsut to have fun with</TD></TR></TABLE>

i've a mini me in my EK hatch w/ y7 botton end and y8 head
it depended on what head and what botton end u using to your build, either way it's gonna come out in similar result but i heard the D15B or D16A botton w/ Y8 head will get the highest compression ratio which is good if you're going NA (assuming you're since u want ITB??).

Mini me is not much faster compared to the stock d16z6 or the d16y8, they're basically the same thing if u done right (like someone just mentioned). from what i can tell from my engine, the lower end rev faster and stronger compared to my old y7 and after 5400 rpm when vtec kick it you'll feel a slight kick in ur butt to move a little faster. of coz it's gonna be faster than your old motor but don't expect THAT MUCH gain in HP.

if you ask me about, i'm defentily happy w/ my mini me motor right now but still not enough (keep i mind my motor is ALL STOCK, stock everything).
if you really wanna do a NA mini me make sure you do the follow.

for the head:

- get a good condition head and port and polish that thing
- get at least a stage 2 cam
- some kind of adjustable cam gear for tuning
- get a skunk2 IM and bigger TB
- some sort of intake (CAI will get more HP, Short ram will get better response, blah blah blah)
- some sort of header (SMSP is the best but hella expensive, just go for a stock Y8 header if u're cheap like me, lol)

for the botton:
- rebuild that **** if it's old
- get some higher compression piston (p29)

for engine management:
- convert to OBD1 (if you're not)
- get urself a P28 and chip it
- run good engine management like hondata S300, or some other stand alone computer like Apexi Power FC, blah blah blah.

for tranny:
- get urself a ex tranny
- if you have extra money get some better gearing
- if you still have money left then get a final drive
- sell all your belonging and get urself an LSD.

at the end, u'll dump a hella lot of money into this and make about 150-160 whp, it's still not hella fast but for sure it'll be fun and you'll most likely be broke.

boostedcoupe95

yeah doggy...mini me swaps where its at....its more hp too...is it vtec?...mines been boosted for a year

JDM_EK_wanabe

imgho, you are probaly wasting your time unless you are going to boost it, same your somey for a B series, i almost did do a mini-me, but it was to expensive for me becuase i am hoping of swaping to a b, sorry but i love the d series, they are a great motor, but i just want more potential out of my motor, and i know i could get it with a D, i just dont have the money for it

minime-civic

i did the swap, and its awesome, but there is only one setback, you gotta run power to the vtec actuator (not the green one) with a switch or a v-afc or whatever, and something is going wrong with mine because it isnt working correctly, it only revs to 6500 when its supposed to go to 7200 but i say go, its worth it

Syndacate

From his writeup I'd say bauleycivic has a pretty good understanding of it. Lemme PM him b/c you're all trial and you can't PM 'n all.

dafuzzbudd

getting a b-series swap would run about 2700 for around 180 hp
rebuild + mini-me + tranny is about 1000 for 160hp

i kinda want a whole swap but it doesnt seem worth it
is their an extra + that i missed?

also help a bortha out, my plan is to turbo + fuel injectors + tune for 1.5 the hp.
is the mini-me stable enough to do this?
maybe a dumb question but i dont understand compression.

Syndacate

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dafuzzbudd &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">getting a b-series swap would run about 2700 for around 180 hp
rebuild + mini-me + tranny is about 1000 for 160hp

i kinda want a whole swap but it doesnt seem worth it
is their an extra + that i missed?

also help a bortha out, my plan is to turbo + fuel injectors + tune for 1.5 the hp.
is the mini-me stable enough to do this?
maybe a dumb question but i dont understand compression.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I might come off like an ******* for saying this but...what stock B series swap are you going to drop in for 180whp? Might get that outta the crank w/ a GSR w/ I/H/E - but you won't throw that without an ITR on basic I/H/E. Though I guess that only reinforces your point, so

Although 160hp, wheel hp or crank hp I'd like to see those numbers out of a stock mini-me D swap. Wow. You throw a VTEC head on a D15 you'll be lucky to throw 110whp with good I/H/E

dafuzzbudd

you would say my D15B into a mini me would be about 110 whp?
you would say a gsr would give little less than 180whp?

i take i/h/e as an assumption
im all but learning

Syndacate

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dafuzzbudd &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you would say my D15B into a mini me would be about 110 whp?
you would say a gsr would give little less than 180whp?

i take i/h/e as an assumption
im all but learning</TD></TR></TABLE>

I would say you'll be lucky to get 100whp out of a D15b with a VTEC head and lucky to get 165 whp out of a GSR.

This is in terms of stock motors of course.

dafuzzbudd

arent gsr's rated at 170 hp?
if the mini-me could be estimated at 150hp
how could it actually be 165, and 100 WHP respectively?

perseverance

mini-me... 150hp? u gotta be kidding me. The fastest sohc vtec motor was rated at 130 hp. and that's brand new somewhere in sushi land.

Scracho

A mini-me swap is a good inexpensive way to make some moderate power on a limited budget. The D-series engines have been put to the wayside for a number of years because everyone wanted to go B or some H series, but there has been a strong group of people who just wanted to continue to build on honda's little workhorse and for some reason or another there seems to be more and more of these guys wrenching on D's these days maybe cause their like me who are just killing time to save money for a real swap like a K (Sorry B/H series faithful but you know the K is the shiz) or maybe it's because with the amount of D-builds going on here on this forum and other forums; guys are actually making 140-150WHP on their built D's. The best part is you can do most of this with OEM equipment. Yeah I know to some people 150WHP isn't much and for those who are thinking of making more than that on a N/A D.... Ummm... GO TURBO to be realistic, now I'm not saying its impossible but it wouldn't be very cost effective to try to build a N/A D to over come that 150WHP mark. My current build I'm going to try to make 140WHP on my D and I'll be happy for now.

D16Y7 Block
P29 Pistons (Should be at 12.3:1 Comp. ratio)
D16Y8 Head Match ported and polished
D16Y8 2 layer H/G
Stage 2 cam
JGE Springs/Valves/Retainers
Skunk2 Intake Manifold
Skunk2 65 or 68mm Throttle body
Chipped P28
4-1 Header

It should be fun when shes complete

Syndacate

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dafuzzbudd &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">arent gsr's rated at 170 hp?
if the mini-me could be estimated at 150hp
how could it actually be 165, and 100 WHP respectively?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hahaha.

The big confusion factor that most people that don't know much about cars get hung up on. No I'm not dissing you - this isn't the first time this has happend.

The GSR I'm pretty sure is rated at 180hp - at the crank shaft... Which really means jack **** in the scheme of things, because unless you're attaching that GSR to a unicycle where there's no gearing what-so-ever, the HP out of the crank doesn't mean squat. So it's measured by a wheel dynometer in "whp" or "bhp." A bhp or whp number represents how much hp is at <u>the wheels</u> that are spinning (if it's a front wheel drive car the front wheels, a rwd the rear ones, ...so on and so forth). A civic with a GSR may have 180hp at the crank, but it may only have 145-165whp - and w/ I/H/E (all name brands) you'll be pretty lucky if you could see the stock crank #'s in your whp, so say... (we're stayin street here), DC Sports header, Apex`i world sport, and AEM V2 CAI (Just whwat I pulled off the top of my head) - With those on a GSR, your civic might be throwing out 155-160whp (keep in mind that there is a huge range where it can fall, but not really close to the crank #'s unless it's upgraded some more). Keep in mind that your typical front engine FWD car loses approximately 25% of the engine power between the crankshaft and the wheel.

As for the D15b VTEC. I don't know who told you it was ranked at 150hp, it's not NEAR 150hp. STOCK, in, and of itself as an engine, a JDM D15B is about the same as a USDM D16Z6 in terms of hp (or close to it..this is due to more aggressive cam shafts...and possibly the bore/stroke - not sure, don't know the numbers off the top of my head). a USDM D15b7 like out of a DX or LX (92-95) with a VTEC head on it will be lucky to see 120hp at the crank shaft. Now that we've reported all of the numbers at the crank shaft, front engine, fwd car, take right off the top 20-25% of the power (it takes off a lot because it's a sub-2L engine, and a 1.5's especially low. The lower the displacement, the lower the torque (which is really what wins races, no whp). Those % decreases = about 90-96whp. And even less torque.

As for torque, torque sucks on Honda/Acuras because they're all sub-2L engines and torque is directly related to displacement. Think about it this way, on my 509 bored '67 Camaro, I dynoed out 530whp and 527ft lbs tq. - Your typical D-Turbo motor at 200whp is only putting out....130? 140? ft lbs. of torque. A lot of torque is lost due to the engine size.

I am going to be VERY late for programming as I have 10 minutes to get there and it's a 15 minute walk + getting dressed and stuff.

I will talk to you later, if you have any questions because I went through things at a rediculously fast rate, just PM me, I'll be more than happy to help you.

Hope that helped - if not, PM me.

JDM_EK_wanabe

nice post man, its about time somebody said something worth while to set them straight!

dafuzzbudd

you helped me a lot Syndacate.
lot of good info

only thing im a little stumped on is:
how a b18b has more torque/ less hp
b16 has less torque/ more hp

i heard someone talk about their b16 generating tons of hp but lack in torque
hp/whp is a product of torque isnt it by equation?
i dont understand exactly the difference when riding.