Master cylinder change-out, any tips on bleeding?
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Master cylinder change-out, any tips on bleeding?
I'm changing the brake master cylinder on my wifes 2000 DX. The only thing that I'm unfamiliar with is bleeding a MC. Is there anything I need to keep in mind or do special for this, or will regular line bleeding work fine?
I'm hoping it's just a "bolt the new one on, and push the new fluid through the system."
I searched, but there are a lot of MC threads to sift through, I'm trying to do this tonight.
Thanks for any help.
I'm hoping it's just a "bolt the new one on, and push the new fluid through the system."
I searched, but there are a lot of MC threads to sift through, I'm trying to do this tonight.
Thanks for any help.
#2
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Re: Master cylinder change-out, any tips on bleeding? (SGVridgerunner)
you have to bench bleed a new M/C
fill up the m/c and put into a vic safely, cover up the two holes that the likes run into using ur fingers, useing a screwdriver, pump the cly. and push the fluid through several times. Hold the screwdriver and release ur fingers. fluid will shoot out. cover up and repeat.
Its very similar to bleeding the breaks by pumping the pedal. except when ur dont insulting the M/C, you do not have to bleed from the caliper nipples, you can bleed from those lines that run into the M/C. (10mm boxend wrench)
I did this to my civic and my brothers crx and been holding up for months now, no problems
fill up the m/c and put into a vic safely, cover up the two holes that the likes run into using ur fingers, useing a screwdriver, pump the cly. and push the fluid through several times. Hold the screwdriver and release ur fingers. fluid will shoot out. cover up and repeat.
Its very similar to bleeding the breaks by pumping the pedal. except when ur dont insulting the M/C, you do not have to bleed from the caliper nipples, you can bleed from those lines that run into the M/C. (10mm boxend wrench)
I did this to my civic and my brothers crx and been holding up for months now, no problems
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Re: Master cylinder change-out, any tips on bleeding? (dohcdelsol)
Thanks for the advice, let me see if I have this right. I put the new M/C into a vice, cover the line holes with my fingers and pump the cylinder just like bleeding at the caliper.
Now when I install the brake lines onto the M/C, will there be air trapped at the flare interface? Do I just push that air out to the calipers' bleed valves?
Now when I install the brake lines onto the M/C, will there be air trapped at the flare interface? Do I just push that air out to the calipers' bleed valves?
#4
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Re: Master cylinder change-out, any tips on bleeding? (SGVridgerunner)
u dont have to use a vice, but i did cause its ******* hard to push that rod in...
yeah a little air will get caught in, but just bleed it at the lines off the M/C by pumping the pedal. you can pump and bleed at the calipers, this jsut saves you time if fluid is already present in the lines
after a few manual pumps, release your finger to let the air and fluid escape then cover the holes back up, do this bout 4-5 times or half the resivor
quick search:
"the way to bench bleed is to run 2 rubber hoses from the ports back into the reservoir submerge them and pump the piston till bubbles stop coming out. if you dont have a bench bleed kit, just put your fingers over the ports, and pump the piston, keeping them covered on the rebound, untill you stop getting air out of the ports. "
yeah a little air will get caught in, but just bleed it at the lines off the M/C by pumping the pedal. you can pump and bleed at the calipers, this jsut saves you time if fluid is already present in the lines
after a few manual pumps, release your finger to let the air and fluid escape then cover the holes back up, do this bout 4-5 times or half the resivor
quick search:
"the way to bench bleed is to run 2 rubber hoses from the ports back into the reservoir submerge them and pump the piston till bubbles stop coming out. if you dont have a bench bleed kit, just put your fingers over the ports, and pump the piston, keeping them covered on the rebound, untill you stop getting air out of the ports. "
#7
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (Mista Bone)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mista Bone »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bench bleed the MC on the car, less messy </TD></TR></TABLE>
how do you pump the rod then??? u using the pedal then? its not the point to bench bleeding. Bench bleeding is done outside the car, or atleast i always thought. I guess if it works just as effecient, to each his own, but my way only takes 2 or 3 times to bleed from the lines and your done.
how do you pump the rod then??? u using the pedal then? its not the point to bench bleeding. Bench bleeding is done outside the car, or atleast i always thought. I guess if it works just as effecient, to each his own, but my way only takes 2 or 3 times to bleed from the lines and your done.
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#8
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Re: (dohcdelsol)
"bench" bleeding is done to get the air out of the MC bore.
It doesn't matter if it is in a vise or mounted to the car AS long as the MC is level.
By doing it on the car there is no spillage while moving it from the vise to the car. Also less air is induced into the lines, which makes bleeding a little easier.
I've been doing it that way for almost 30 years and I'm only 39. Try getting a GM A-Body *** end up high enough to level the MC, that is fun!
It doesn't matter if it is in a vise or mounted to the car AS long as the MC is level.
By doing it on the car there is no spillage while moving it from the vise to the car. Also less air is induced into the lines, which makes bleeding a little easier.
I've been doing it that way for almost 30 years and I'm only 39. Try getting a GM A-Body *** end up high enough to level the MC, that is fun!
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