Map Sensor (searched)
#1
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Map Sensor (searched)
Okay this is a little weird, so bare with me please.
I did do a search, but most threads either aren't finished or don't have the exact problem I have.
When I bought my 92 hatch, it had a d15b jdm bottom block with a d15b8 nonvtec head. I did a mini me with a z6 head and a p28 so now I'm flying around with vtec
Well the thing is, my car NEVER had a MAP sensor attached to it and it ran fine before the swap. Now that I did the swap my car is acting funky. The gas mileage is poor, my car idle surges and I've got a MAP sensor code (I had a code before, but I didn't bother to check what it was). Plus, unless I'm constantly accelerating the car boggs down as soon as I release the gas pedal a little bit (but that could also do with breaks going bad).
My TB has a small hose for the MAP sensor, and I feel a vacuum when the car is running, but there is no where to mount it on the TB itself. There's also no place on the firewall for me to mount the map sensor, so it's a little weird. I'm guessing I have an after market TB (it Nissin Brand, and so is the Intake).
I borrowed a friends' Civic Service Manual and hooked the MAP sensor up to specs, splicing the MAP sensor directly by the ECU, but it's still throwing a code and nothing has changed weather it's hooked up or not. Could I have a vacuum leak somewhere?
One more problem that I've noticed after the swap is that (rarely) it acts SUPER funky. It won't rev past 3 or 4K (assumed; i dont have a tach), makes a really gross, kinda grinding noise? Like the kind the car makes when it's in 5th and you're only going 10mph.
Please help me out! I just want this problem to go away I've had problems with this car for MONTHS now
Thank you!!
I did do a search, but most threads either aren't finished or don't have the exact problem I have.
When I bought my 92 hatch, it had a d15b jdm bottom block with a d15b8 nonvtec head. I did a mini me with a z6 head and a p28 so now I'm flying around with vtec
Well the thing is, my car NEVER had a MAP sensor attached to it and it ran fine before the swap. Now that I did the swap my car is acting funky. The gas mileage is poor, my car idle surges and I've got a MAP sensor code (I had a code before, but I didn't bother to check what it was). Plus, unless I'm constantly accelerating the car boggs down as soon as I release the gas pedal a little bit (but that could also do with breaks going bad).
My TB has a small hose for the MAP sensor, and I feel a vacuum when the car is running, but there is no where to mount it on the TB itself. There's also no place on the firewall for me to mount the map sensor, so it's a little weird. I'm guessing I have an after market TB (it Nissin Brand, and so is the Intake).
I borrowed a friends' Civic Service Manual and hooked the MAP sensor up to specs, splicing the MAP sensor directly by the ECU, but it's still throwing a code and nothing has changed weather it's hooked up or not. Could I have a vacuum leak somewhere?
One more problem that I've noticed after the swap is that (rarely) it acts SUPER funky. It won't rev past 3 or 4K (assumed; i dont have a tach), makes a really gross, kinda grinding noise? Like the kind the car makes when it's in 5th and you're only going 10mph.
Please help me out! I just want this problem to go away I've had problems with this car for MONTHS now
Thank you!!
#2
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Re: Map Sensor (Commiecircusbear)
EGs either came with a throttle body mounted map sensor, or one on the firewall. Are you sure there is not a plug on the firewall?
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Re: Map Sensor (duggy)
Yes sir, but i'll go take pictures for you in just a minute.
Also, I should have mentioned this, but I did a throttle body coolant bypass. I had no choice, because when I took off the TB to clean it, it fell on the ground and the coolant pipe broke off. Also, the two screws at the bottom of the TB are TOTALLY stripped so there's no way for me to adjust the stupid plug on the bottom; and one of the bolts that holds the IAVC to the intake is also fully stripped. Neither happened because of me; must've been the previous owner
Anyway, pics up in a minute!
Also, I should have mentioned this, but I did a throttle body coolant bypass. I had no choice, because when I took off the TB to clean it, it fell on the ground and the coolant pipe broke off. Also, the two screws at the bottom of the TB are TOTALLY stripped so there's no way for me to adjust the stupid plug on the bottom; and one of the bolts that holds the IAVC to the intake is also fully stripped. Neither happened because of me; must've been the previous owner
Anyway, pics up in a minute!
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Re: Map Sensor (Commiecircusbear)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Commiecircusbear »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes sir, but i'll go take pictures for you in just a minute.
Also, I should have mentioned this, but I did a throttle body coolant bypass. I had no choice, because when I took off the TB to clean it, it fell on the ground and the coolant pipe broke off. Also, the two screws at the bottom of the TB are TOTALLY stripped so there's no way for me to adjust the stupid plug on the bottom; and one of the bolts that holds the IAVC to the intake is also fully stripped. Neither happened because of me; must've been the previous owner
Anyway, pics up in a minute! </TD></TR></TABLE>
Well your surging idle is cause by the vaccum leak that is coming from the two screws on the bottom of the throttle body.
What confuses me is that your car ran before with no MAP sensor.
The car is falling on its face because it doesn't know how much air and fuel to compensate for.
Also take a picture of all your spark plugs and we can all diagnose this.
Also, I should have mentioned this, but I did a throttle body coolant bypass. I had no choice, because when I took off the TB to clean it, it fell on the ground and the coolant pipe broke off. Also, the two screws at the bottom of the TB are TOTALLY stripped so there's no way for me to adjust the stupid plug on the bottom; and one of the bolts that holds the IAVC to the intake is also fully stripped. Neither happened because of me; must've been the previous owner
Anyway, pics up in a minute! </TD></TR></TABLE>
Well your surging idle is cause by the vaccum leak that is coming from the two screws on the bottom of the throttle body.
What confuses me is that your car ran before with no MAP sensor.
The car is falling on its face because it doesn't know how much air and fuel to compensate for.
Also take a picture of all your spark plugs and we can all diagnose this.
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Re: Map Sensor (duggy)
The images are quite large, I'm sorry.
Do you want me to pull the spark plugs out? Because I don't currently have the tool for it They are BRAND new NGK spark plugs; less then 200 miles on them Thinking I should regap them?
The two screws at the bottom because they are stripped? I dont understand? How can two stripped screws cause an idle surge? and why didn't it do that before the swap?
Lol, yeah I'm really not sure how it was able to run without a MAP sensor before hand, but it seemed to be able to without a problem. I had a p05 ecu and had great gas mileage.
Here are the pictures for you. I hope these help
Modified by Commiecircusbear at 7:20 PM 5/5/2008
Do you want me to pull the spark plugs out? Because I don't currently have the tool for it They are BRAND new NGK spark plugs; less then 200 miles on them Thinking I should regap them?
The two screws at the bottom because they are stripped? I dont understand? How can two stripped screws cause an idle surge? and why didn't it do that before the swap?
Lol, yeah I'm really not sure how it was able to run without a MAP sensor before hand, but it seemed to be able to without a problem. I had a p05 ecu and had great gas mileage.
Here are the pictures for you. I hope these help
Modified by Commiecircusbear at 7:20 PM 5/5/2008
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#9
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Re: Map Sensor (Commiecircusbear)
Seeing your pics you have 2 optinos to try. 1 get the firewall sensor which is a little diffirent than the one you have or 2 get a TB that has the opening for that TB map sensor. See the one you have is for a TB the firewall one is kind of squared looking. And the firewall one goes hooked up to some little bracket where the fuel filter is. So you should be able to see something there that a screw can be applied. Atleast that's how mine was.
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