GSRHatch216

I have a 94 civic hatch with a gsr motor and it is burning oil but it doesn't smoke at all and there are no visible leaks, any idea what is going on?? Anyone that can offer some input would be great. Also when first starting sometimes wants to stall could it all be linked some how? thanks

hondamark35

so i assume you are loosing oil. how much do you loose a month? i'll tell you where it leaks so you know you have checked everything you can. look under the timing belt area, the distributer housing, the valve cover, the oil pan gasket, the oil drain plug, the cam plug, the rear main seal (you'll see this on the bottom of the trany and rear of motor), vtec solenoid. sorry if i sound condecending by listing simple stuff, but i know i miss simple things sometimes so...

good luck finding it. also there is dye you can get for your oil and then shine a black light around after running the motor and the leak will show up neon orange.

WillieB

Like hondamark35 said, check everthing. But the gsr and others have been known to use/burn oil if your driving in vtecland 95% of the time. If you can't find any leaks....baby your car for about a week and then check the oil level again.

GSRHatch216

thanks for the replies guys but i've had this thing on a lift inspected the motor top to bottom, its leaking in a month about 1 1/2 to 2 quarts i havent beat on it in a long time its just my transport from work and back but i would still like to keep it in good shape maybe i'll try the dye, thanks again guys

miahmouse

How many miles per month? What oil (10/30)? Miles on motor? Crap on back of the car?

You could be losing some oil through the valve seals and not be able to see.

The stalling at startup has something to do with the fuel pump or so I'm told. Lots of people have the same problems w/Bseries in civics.

GSRHatch216

i put about 200 miles a month on it, the motor has about 90k to 100k on it, i use 10/30 mobil synthetic oil, and i have a walbro 255 lph fuel pump, and im not sure what you mean by crap on the back i has no trace of black on the bumper at all from the exhuast and i never have anything in the hatch if you mean like tranporting alot of weight thanks for the reply

mike1114

iTrader: (1)

Is everything in the motor original?

If so like said, I will bet it's the valve seals. These go bad about 7ish years into the cars life, earlier if you beat on the car a lot.

Watch when you start your car up in the morning after NOT driving it all night, I bet there is a little blueish smoke coming out your exhaust, most likely this is the only time you'll see it as usually its not enough smoke to notice.

miahmouse

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike1114 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Watch when you start your car up in the morning after NOT driving it all night, I bet there is a little blueish smoke coming out your exhaust, most likely this is the only time you'll see it as usually its not enough smoke to notice.</TD></TR></TABLE>


It's odd though, 1.5 to 2 qts in 200 miles and you should be seeing something, wasting a lot of gas and the bumper should be covered in sooty crap. Would explain the stalling at startup also, bunch of oil in the cylinders from leaky valve seals...

othen than valve seals, and leaks (as in drip, drip) The only other thing is the pcv valve, those have been known to cause oil consumption...

GSRHatch216

everything internal is stock and im still getting around 25-27 mpg last time i checked, pcv is original how can you tell if the pcv is shot? also when i do start it first thing in the morning there is some light smoke only for afew seconds and that is usually when the idle wants to die out on me could that be pcv related also or just the oil consumption?

mike1114

iTrader: (1)

Well...there are only a few ways you can lose oil, either your consuming it or its leaking out. I think we can rule out leak as you would find a puddle of oil or oil all over your motor.

That leads us to its burning it. Its gotta be through the valve seals or piston rings.

Have you done a compression and leakdown test?

GSRHatch216

compression was done about a year ago and all the cylinders were fine and it was doing this from before then never a leak down though and i've definetly considered wore rings as possibly the problem but wouldnt it smoke more than just on start up if worn rings was the problem?

GSRHatch216

what's all involved with replacing valve seals? would i have to take the head off and remove the cams, springs and valves and everything?

WillieB

Yea, the easiest is to take the head off. After it's off and it's stripped of the cams, get some rubberbands to hold the rockers up and out of the way. Take the valve springs out one at a time and get some needle nose pliers and pull the old seals off/out and clean it up really good around the valve. Get a deep 10mm socket and put the valve seal on the valve and pushit by hand as far it will go but don't force it and make sure it's straight, then get the socket and put in over the valve and down to the seal and get a hammer and tap it lightly until the seal is all the way on. make sure you lay the head on a peice on wood like a 2x8 so you won't damage the bottom of the head and also when you are taking off and putting back on the springs and retainers.

superacecardriver

I could have told you it was the vavle stem seals. Cause iam that dam good. haha .

GSRHatch216

your making it sound wayyy to easy to replace the seals haha but i'd prolly take off the head and take it to a shop and let them do it, i have the bad habit of screwing things up or something never going easy and i dont want to chance the motor, but thanks for the awesome how-to, can they be visually inspected for cracks or chunks missing or are they pretty buried in the head? i would like to know if thats the problem before i replace them i know i should replace them anyways but just for the sake of knowing the problem is fixed or not

superacecardriver

it is very easy. If your some what have a good mechanical amptatude then you will be fine. I have to replace mine in my y8 crx I rebuilt the motor but kinda short cuted the head. I just laped the vavles and reused everything else on the head. The vavle stem seals looked fine. Iam still looking at it but I think it might be the pcv system.

If its your only car I would pay someone to do it.

WillieB

You can't really eyeball them. They have a thin metal sleeve around them. A set costs $20-30 dollars. I understand about the always screwing something up, thats how I know how to do it. You learn from your mistakes LOL. Plus, thats money saved next time I have to replace them. Another how-to see if your valve seats are good (could be slowly leaking there and burning off in the combustion camber/exhaust. Since your going to take the head off anyway...turn the head on it's sides as in exhaust and intake facing up. Pour brake fluid in the intake and exhaust ports (you pick which side first) and let it sit for awhile. Make sure the valves are dry where the fire takes place and if they are leaking you will see the brake fluid leaking between the valve and head.

GSRHatch216

it's my daily driver so i'm gonna have to wait alittle until i can find the time to do it but i guess ill try it myself since everyone was very helpful just wanted to say thanks and i'll post when i'm finished, thanks again